I like this guy the best for learning how to paint and detail kits. he breaks it down pretty good and makes it simple. http://www.dannychoo.com/adp/eng/213/Gundam+Modeling+Tutorial.html I've only cut myself once during the three kits i've made. It happens. Ultimately you will end up doing kits your own way if you continue building them. And I don't know why people keep on saying you should have not done the MG kit, it's really not that hard. Kit building isn't hard at all actually, it's just really really time consuming. the higher the grade on the kit, the longer it will take to build. I would really like to build the PG strike gundam but it's so damn expensive lol
There's a lot easier and safer way to get the pieces out of the trees. For the love of God, don't use an X-acto knife. You'll risk doing some serious damage to yourself and your kit. If you can, get a pair of modelling snips. I'm not sure the exact name of them, it's been years since I bought my pair. They look like this though: Snips And for getting rid of the excess flash from the trees, use a nail file to get rid of the stub, then use some sandpaper to get a nice smooth finish. I personally use Tamiya P400 followed by P800. It adds some work time to your project, but it also leaves you with a much nicer looking kit and, more imporantly, a lot less scars. Also, for painting, you should paint after you've removed the parts from the trees, not before. If you paint before you taken the parts off, you'll be left with some unpainted surfaces where the pieces were still attached to the trees. Then, you'll have to repaint more areas as you'll end up scratching paint away when you get rid of the flash nubs. The MG OYW Gundam is a great kit and doesn't really require much painting at all. Just a few bits here and there to really make it look good. Also, not sure if you (the OP) knows this or not, but you can take your knife and slice the middle, ring and pinky fingers apart to have fully poseable hands. All you need to do is carefully use your knife to cut the fingers apart at the ball joint, smooth the cut down a bit, then insert into the appropriate slots on the palm.
speaking of gundam models, are there any good sites that are NOT blogs (I hate the format) that have a complete listing of what's been made, possibly with reviews/listings of what's different between versions of certain kits (i.e. hg vs. mg, or wing gundam vs. wing gundam v2 ka)?
Check out www.gundams.net and go into the forums. There's a section for models down near the bottom that has a stickied thread for reviews. If there's no review of what you, you can request one. I had quite a large collection of kits myself here in Taiwan before selling most of them off. I did keep my MG Wing Zero Custom though, so if you want to know anything about it, feel free to PM me.
this is my favorite place to check out built gundam kits. it's all japanese but the pics tell you everything you need to know and he has comparison pics of the same gundam through out the different grades. http://dalong.net/ you can see the links up top for the different grade kits you can look at.
aile strike gundam HG Does anyone know if this model needs glueing or paining because I am going to order it.If any of you can post pics of its scale it would be great!
HG, MG and PG you don't need glue or paint. There are already scale pictures of it in the Gundam thread.
I don't know why people are saying that you shouldn't have started with a Master Grade kit. The only difference between HG, MG, and PG is the repetition of the steps. But, if you're just putting it together, it's the exact same cutting, trimming, and fitting skills.
Not entirely true, especially with the Seed HG kits as far paint goes. Even some MG kits require a touch of paint here and there just to look accurate. The stickers provided a) don't always get all the parts that need to be coloured, and b) just plain suck. I've had many MG kits that needed some paint here or there to look like they were supposed, such as MG God Gundam's head vulcans. They're supposed to be yellow, but are molded in white. Or the cockpits of the corefighters for RX-78-2 and ZZ. Supposed to be black, but molded in clear plastic. The Seed kits are really bad for this. They require a fair bit of painting if you want them to look like they should.
here's my opinion on how a kit should look they should look exactly how you want them to look. I think the cooler kits come from the more imaginative kit builders. I'm not saying i'm better than anyone else, i'm not, i just think it's cool when someone builds a kit and makes it there own, that's the whole point of building kits isn't it? If I wanted a show accurate toy, I'd just buy a toy then.
I think I'm going to be able to convince the family that these "models" are an appropriate gift for a 31 year old, as no one will buy me transformers anymore. I just made a list for my birthday for my girlfriend (mostly MGs), and I'm good as a painter and have put together some HGs before, but can someone recommend and point out a good place to get a panel lining marker/pen? also, what is the technique you use to panel line? is it just put the tip in the area and draw around the edge, or is it more than that?
Building a Gundam isn't hard but you do need lots of tools and paints to get it done. I have a bunch of HG and MG Gundams lying around but I won't start on any of them until I get the necessary tools to turn them into models. The ones that I really want to work on are the MG Fin Fannel, MG Kampfer, and MG Gundam Seed Launcher version.
No. The Lightning Edition was a 1/60 scale model with an embedded LED system to make the gold frame parts glow like they do on the show. It's actually Korean.
you are correct, it actually says korean on the blue tabs you can click to change from the english menu to the korean menu lol
