his transformation itself isn’t the problem - it’s the tolerance that’s all effed up. i think that’s the only figure i’ve ever owned where i can’t get his alt mode fitted properly
I've weirdly only ever had the issue like everyone else where the smokestacks don't connect at the bottom. Otherwise, the hood seems to sit pretty flat with the windshield having a small gap. Guess mine was lucky?
I love transforming MPM4. I think it's an awesome figure that's bogged down by a couple weird issues. Ironhide too, although the design flaws go much deeper with IH. Most of the torso needs to be redesigned. MPM4 just needs the small improvements that LT02 made plus a better headsculpt.
Agreed. LT2 fixed those problems and he's one of my favorite toys. It's amazing how those tolerances made the difference between my least favorite (MPM4) and one of my favorite toys...
In the looks department, I think this figure is in my top 3 favorite Bayverse figures of all time. He's such a bruiser. I'd be happy if the shoulder/chest halves simply tabbed in better on mine...it looks like it would have been a relatively simple redesign to implement.
I recently got my MPM Ironhide, it´s a completly repainted version I got from a member of the forum. I have to say, it is impressive! It looks really good and mine is not so bad to pose, actually. Yeah the shoulders are not very stable but a couple of videos on Youtube helped me finding a reasonable stability. I haven´t transformed him yet, he looks so good I don´t feel the need to transform him, and I´m also quite afraid to try, after all i read about it! But I know mine can be transformed and that everything tabs in (the owner showed me pictures of both modes....). I will take my time when I´ll try the transformation. Can someone suggest me the best Youtube video to use for transformation? I haven´t received the box or the instruction, and I wouldn´t use them anyway....
So.. I got my mpm ironhide open... I can lock the chest for poses, but only after hitting the pose I need to set it again after I put it in a new pose. The big issue I have is on his right arm his cannon and forearm flap is loose and doesn't lock in place..I work and find sweet spot, but if a crow caws outside it'll pop out and it'll dangle... Is this normal? I searched this thread and it's the chest the most folks have issue with. I have an extra mpm ironhide to trade for the dna upgrade kit. Anyone have one let's trade...
I've always said the biggest problem with the figure is the arms, not the chest. The chest can be saved with a bit of future just like anything, plus the fact that they move around is great for the articulation, but the arms are very poorly designed.
I have had the Black Mamba Ironhide (Weaponeer) for almost a year now and I never purchased the MPM because of the price. I had always heard average to negative reviews for it and $100 was just more than what I was willing to pay for something that was dragged for having poor QC, high price, and an overall poor design. But thanks to a member here, I was able to get one. I have to say...its not AS bad as I thought it would be. Its not great, but I would say its at least worth the sale price of Ross. I would even say it's worth $50, but not the $100+ I have seen online retailers asking for it. The joints on mine are loose enough to manage, but not a floppy mess like I expected. Once I was able to get everything situated the way I wanted it, it did stay. The arm tabs don't want to tab in on mine which is an issue, causing the window/cannons to droop down. The shoulders/chest isn't nearly as horrid as I imagined. It will stay if I sort of tab it in to the chest piece/neck sides. Posing this guy in any sort of dynamic way is out of the question due to how the calf section works and the large feet, which I'm guessing is needed to balance this brute. The arms are thin, oddly positioned behind the figure, and then get so thick and encumbered from the elbow to the wrist. The only real position I can get him in that looks halfway decent is the hands on hip look, otherwise it just doesn't look...right. But thats just me. Paint job looks fairly good and needs a few touchups to make it perfect. I really do like the paint done on mine. I looked up a video on how to get him into truck mode and to me, this is where the figures QC issues and limits come into play. With help from a video, I wanted to make sure I was getting it all right...yet the figure fought with me every step of the way. Tabs popped out, things were drooping and cracking as I moved them. It sounded awful and felt awful to transform. I ended up doing it 3 times just to make sure I was handling it correctly. When I got it all done, it looked like a cheap toy from the bargain bin. Large gaps in the form and scuffs in the paint (I'm fairly gentle on my figures) so I put him back into robot mode and that is where he will stay forever. The BMB Ironhide is so much better/larger and it cost me $80 to get from TFDirect. So I would recommend that one over the MPM if anyone loves Ironhide like I do. Only thing I don't like about the BMB is the fact that the eyes are just black, due to the light up feature. All in all, I will say that Ironhide is my favorite Bay character so I have a soft spot for him. I do recommend people pick it up if they have a Ross but in all honesty...anything over $50 is just a waste. Maybe my expectations for Mastepiece figures are higher than they should be, but $100 and even MORE for some of the figures is just too much to ask when they are riddled with QC issues or cut corners. This one in particular needed an extra month or 2 at the factory to get the kinks worked out.
Did anyone get the SL-72 exhaust pipe upgrade kit? If so.. How did you go about removing the original pipes?
Yeah I got mine from TFSafari. Two of the rubber pins that hold the original exhaust pipes on were superglued in place on my Ironhide. I had to cut them off the exhaust pipe with small scissors and then use a small pin vice to drill out the rubber pin that was glued into the toy. I also had to use a small spot of superglue on the SL-72 exhaust pipes to hold them in place, they're metal and the pins weren't quite the same diameter as the holes the held the original pipes in place. They look amazing though, and I don't regret having to damage the crappy looking original pipes.
Sure. In the 3rd photo you can see the two holes that hold the tailpipe in place along with the pegs that go into the holes. The top hole originally didn't go all the way through the black plastic part, but when I was drilling out the rubber peg from the original pipe I decided to just go clean through so it matched the bottom hole that always went clean through. I figured this would make it easier to push the metal pipes off if I ever wanted to switch back to the originals plus you won't ever notice that hole in either robot or truck mode.
