I recently installed the Shockwave Lab LED upgrade kit for Siege Omega Supreme, but don't like how bright the eye LEDs are and don't like the lack of any eye "lenses". Here's a part that I designed to be inserted between the LEDs and the faceplate to add eye lenses. It's a very tiny, delicate part because of the limited space for it. As such, it's hard to keep it stuck to the print bed when printing, so I added little squares to the outside corners to help keep them stuck down. Then I just trimmed them off. After about 10 prototypes to figure out the model and the print process, I had a final part, printed in 3D Solutech Aqua Blue transparent PLA. Update 2020/04/10: I've moved the STL download to Cults3D with my other Transformers parts: Download free STL files WFC:Siege Omega Supreme Eye Inserts (w/ LED option) ・ Cults
I've posted both versions of this for sale in my Shapeways shop: LED version: WFC:Siege Omega Supreme Eye Inserts (LED version) by robots78 on Shapeways Non-LED version: WFC:Siege Omega Supreme Eye Inserts by robots78 on Shapeways Shapeways doesn't offer translucent a blue material, so I'm offering the part in either solid blue, which should let some light through as the lenses are very thin, or their fine detail material which is transparent but colorless. These materials are untested and I make no guarantees about how well they'll perform with the LEDs.
Good work. I like Shockwave Lab's stuff in general but their constant use of bare, blinding LEDs is just ridiculous at this point. That was my major concern about their head LED kit (aside from potential damage just from opening up the head). There's no eyes! I've made my own custom head LED mod along with new eye piece. You actually do NOT want to use crystal clear lens for this. The light would still be too bright. Having a semi-opaque material to tone down the brightness would work better, like what you posted here (3d printed transparent filament will never come out crystal clear by its nature). If you want the light to diffuse a little more, you could use some sanding paper to smooth out both sides of the lens surfaces. Start at 300 (maybe 220) and work your way to 1000 or so. This will create an even, hazy finish. 3d printed stuff sands too easily in general so don't want to overdo it. Ideally, they should use resistors to tone down the brightness, but I haven't seen them use it yet in any of their kits. I used a tiny potentiometer in mine (variable resistor).
