Discussion in 'Transformers Toy Discussion' started by Purple Heart, Jul 16, 2020.
Good morning from Badassville
Are you maximal? Was told you turn into a lion and a tiger.
"IF GOOD ENOUGH FOR STAR LORD, IT GOOD ENOUGH FOR KING DINO!!!"
"ME ALMOST GOT I- *SIGH* ME GONNA HAVE TO SHAKE IT AGAIN!"
HE'S GOT TWO PIPES, YUS
Why is PvP talking about the odd design of this mold where the truck looks "cracked in half" when he is clearly not transforming it correctly?
Those "early" reviews are usually rushed as hell because that's the point - to be as early as possible and get the sweet clicks. Also those leaked/stolen from the factory copies probably arrive with no box and instructions.
But Huffer has been out for quite sometime now; guess I'd expect him to have seen other photos of it transformed correctly. *shrugs*
Didn't know these were out yet...
My Huffer is like that from @PrimeVsPrime
I haven't been able to figure out how to "fix" it.
EDIT: I see, if you don't slot the cargo bed (Heels onto the butt), then you can have it straight.
Well the front cab definitely needs to be folded up correctly and pushed hard enough, downwards. Make sure it is; as well as the hinge inside, make sure it's sitting flush on the truck.
Wheeljack: “Hmm, all this human suffering gives me an idea…”
Vroom vroom what could I pick up today....
Hey there, nice caboose!
Haha, good old Stiletto-Scream, hope he gets a new figure soon!
All four of the wheels should touch the ground at the same time (and roll) if it's transformed correctly and there are no major QC issues. The vehicle mode definitely should not look like it does in PrimevPrime's videos though. That having been said, the cab and the rear half of the vehicle might not ever be level to one another. Several factors cause this:
The first is that when the legs/thighs are fully collapsed/folded and tabbed/pegged
in, that section isn't true/plum/squared to waist. This is a result of the orange plastic (inner legs) and the blue plastic (crotch) hitting each other. That results in the orange plastic (feet) not siting flush against the blue plastic (glutes) where the small round orange pegs are. This issue determines the angle that the rest of the vehicle sits at.
The next issue is the way that the silver "back" of the robot was made. It's literally a piece of nonadjustable plastic that has a 90° bend on it, or rather it's supposed to be a 90° bend. The angle of that bend is going to vary from copy to copy and, that's an issue for vehicle mode because the cab hinge is attached to it. If the angle is off it's going to change the angle that the cab sits at relative to the waist/ground. If this is egregiously off, someone might be able to heat it and bend it (like in woodshop) but, this isn't acrylic and you could easily do more harm than good. The plastic has a bit of flex to it but, this really isn't an area that you want rigid plastic due to the hinge system on it. Rigid plastic would be an additional point of failure (especially if it ever became brittle). This issue only determines how level the cab is to the ground.
The final issue is the way that the silver plastic section I just described "meets" the silver plastic piece that juts out behind the robot head. Those pieces don't clip nor tab together, they just sort of hold via leverage and friction and where they meet is never flush on my copy. This has a very minimal effect on how level the cab is to the ground because, the cab hinge system and Cause 2 are the main factors.
Having everything 100% level is a pipe-dream:
Some people aren't going to notice, others aren't going to care, some will wish it wasn't like this but it is what it is, and this will drive some people up the wall around the ceiling and back down again. Those are all valid points of view and, no one has any control over how they feel about it.
Having said that, it's going to be next to impossible for all sections of the vehicle mode (the undercarriage of the rear half and the cab's wheel well, roof, windshield/windows/headlights/grille/bumper) to be 100% parallel to the ground at the same time because, the toy isn't capable of doing so out of the box unless you have a flawless copy with no slight warping. Physical modifications will be required in order to achieve that look. Huffer simply wasn't designed to pull off a 100% level die-cast/model vehicle look like a lot of the other Siege/Earthrise/Kindgom vehicles were.
All of this is exacerbated by the small diameter/circumference of the rims/tires. They would mask some of the angles being off and provide some much needed ground clearance. Speaking of ground clearance, you will only have a microscopic amount (even on glass) on the rear half of the vehicle if you're using the Go Better Studio kit and, that's only if you have the legs fully collapsed/folded and tabbed/pegged in.
The easiest way to make sure that the cab hinges are fully collapsed and in the right spot is to keep the chest swung out until you have finished working with the cab hinges. Don't go ham and try to force the cab nor it's hinges into place because the translucent blue plastic for the windshield/windows is pinned in on one of those hinges.
Please keep in mind that Huffer can still be mis-transformed even if the shoulders are pegged into the hips and the arms are "tabbed" into the cab. The shoulders pegging into the hips is only done in order to provide clearance for the front wheels to roll. The arms "tabbing" into the cab is for stability in case the elbow joints are weak as well as to prevent the cab from angling back further than it would if they weren't there since the front of the cab (where the headlights/bumper/grille are) doesn't have a solid connection to the undercarriage.
The Go Better Studio kit piece that hides the hands sits flush/level with the cab and hands. I didn't notice that it had moved when I was rotating the toy and messing around with getting the vehicle flush/level.
I forgot to take an image of the rear of the vehicle.
Does anyone potentially need BW Megatron and Dinobot? They’re great figures but unfortunately I think I need to trim the collection a little
So what is the best way to fix kingdom tracks I just picked him up.Do u guys recommend a upgrade, the JRC design leg pieces? or something diffrent or?
This is highly dependant on what is wrong combined with what you want.
Are the pins (look at the small end of the pin, not the large flat section of it) flush with on the front fenders?
If they aren't this is the primary reason that this section doesn't want to stay in place in robot mode.
There are three ways to fix this:
You can purchase the leg-locks from JRCD (you need to remove them for transformation).
You can glue pieces of plastic onto the tabs on the shin panel so that they will actually tab into the front fenders in robot mode *edit* or, you can purchase a set of 3D printed nylon parts (off of a trusted seller on eBay) that you glue into place on the shin panels which will tab into the front fenders */edit*.
You can pad both sides of the pin with something really soft/thick and then use a pair of channel locks or a clamp (you really want a flat faced object where both sides remain level to each other) to try and force the pin in further so that it's flush with the fender. You may or may not damage/break the toy while doing this.
Are the front fenders trying to "pop out" in vehicle mode?
If they are, the primary cause of this is the variance in tolerances from copy to copy and the small round pegs being to small.
There are three ways to fix this:
Massage the vehicle mode and hope you won the QC lottery.
You can purchase the fender clip from JRCD.
You can try to slightly enlarge the round pegs on the front fenders with something that will not damage the plastic.
Is it an issue that wasn't addressed in this reply (or another reply)?
Just let everyone know what the issue is so we can try to help.
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