War for Cybertron: KINGDOM Appreciation thread.

Discussion in 'Transformers Toy Discussion' started by Purple Heart, Jul 16, 2020.

  1. daimchoc

    daimchoc TFW2005 Supporter

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    My Huffer is like that from @PrimeVsPrime

    I haven't been able to figure out how to "fix" it.

    EDIT: I see, if you don't slot the cargo bed (Heels onto the butt), then you can have it straight.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
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  2. gbm

    gbm Well-Known Member

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    Hmmmm.
    Well the front cab definitely needs to be folded up correctly and pushed hard enough, downwards. Make sure it is; as well as the hinge inside, make sure it's sitting flush on the truck.
     
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  3. ghostyurei

    ghostyurei Our race was a peaceful one once...

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    Wheeljack: “Hmm, all this human suffering gives me an idea…”
    CEA5F92C-0D78-41E4-9882-66439B61EB87.jpeg
     
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  4. imfallenangel

    imfallenangel Well-Known Member

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    Vroom vroom what could I pick up today....
    20210920_171430.jpg

    Hey there, nice caboose!
    20210918_224452.jpg

    The heck?
    20210920_171804_HDR.jpg
     
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  5. Houndini

    Houndini Hound. That's all. Thank you for your time.

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  6. Racer_J

    Racer_J Well-Known Member

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    All four of the wheels should touch the ground at the same time (and roll) if it's transformed correctly and there are no major QC issues. The vehicle mode definitely should not look like it does in PrimevPrime's videos though. That having been said, the cab and the rear half of the vehicle might not ever be level to one another. Several factors cause this:

    Cause 1:

    The first is that when the legs/thighs are fully collapsed/folded and tabbed/pegged
    in, that section isn't true/plum/squared to waist. This is a result of the orange plastic (inner legs) and the blue plastic (crotch) hitting each other. That results in the orange plastic (feet) not siting flush against the blue plastic (glutes) where the small round orange pegs are. This issue determines the angle that the rest of the vehicle sits at.


    Cause 2:

    The next issue is the way that the silver "back" of the robot was made. It's literally a piece of nonadjustable plastic that has a 90° bend on it, or rather it's supposed to be a 90° bend. The angle of that bend is going to vary from copy to copy and, that's an issue for vehicle mode because the cab hinge is attached to it. If the angle is off it's going to change the angle that the cab sits at relative to the waist/ground. If this is egregiously off, someone might be able to heat it and bend it (like in woodshop) but, this isn't acrylic and you could easily do more harm than good. The plastic has a bit of flex to it but, this really isn't an area that you want rigid plastic due to the hinge system on it. Rigid plastic would be an additional point of failure (especially if it ever became brittle). This issue only determines how level the cab is to the ground.

    Cause 3:

    The final issue is the way that the silver plastic section I just described "meets" the silver plastic piece that juts out behind the robot head. Those pieces don't clip nor tab together, they just sort of hold via leverage and friction and where they meet is never flush on my copy. This has a very minimal effect on how level the cab is to the ground because, the cab hinge system and Cause 2 are the main factors.


    Having everything 100% level is a pipe-dream:

    Some people aren't going to notice, others aren't going to care, some will wish it wasn't like this but it is what it is, and this will drive some people up the wall around the ceiling and back down again. Those are all valid points of view and, no one has any control over how they feel about it.

    Having said that, it's going to be next to impossible for all sections of the vehicle mode (the undercarriage of the rear half and the cab's wheel well, roof, windshield/windows/headlights/grille/bumper) to be 100% parallel to the ground at the same time because, the toy isn't capable of doing so out of the box unless you have a flawless copy with no slight warping. Physical modifications will be required in order to achieve that look. Huffer simply wasn't designed to pull off a 100% level die-cast/model vehicle look like a lot of the other Siege/Earthrise/Kindgom vehicles were.


    Rim/Tire diameter/circumference:

    All of this is exacerbated by the small diameter/circumference of the rims/tires. They would mask some of the angles being off and provide some much needed ground clearance. Speaking of ground clearance, you will only have a microscopic amount (even on glass) on the rear half of the vehicle if you're using the Go Better Studio kit and, that's only if you have the legs fully collapsed/folded and tabbed/pegged in.


    Transformation tip:

    The easiest way to make sure that the cab hinges are fully collapsed and in the right spot is to keep the chest swung out until you have finished working with the cab hinges. Don't go ham and try to force the cab nor it's hinges into place because the translucent blue plastic for the windshield/windows is pinned in on one of those hinges.

    Please keep in mind that Huffer can still be mis-transformed even if the shoulders are pegged into the hips and the arms are "tabbed" into the cab. The shoulders pegging into the hips is only done in order to provide clearance for the front wheels to roll. The arms "tabbing" into the cab is for stability in case the elbow joints are weak as well as to prevent the cab from angling back further than it would if they weren't there since the front of the cab (where the headlights/bumper/grille are) doesn't have a solid connection to the undercarriage.


    *edit* Photos:

    20210920_182456.jpg

    20210920_182446.jpg

    20210920_182437.jpg

    20210920_182505.jpg
    The Go Better Studio kit piece that hides the hands sits flush/level with the cab and hands. I didn't notice that it had moved when I was rotating the toy and messing around with getting the vehicle flush/level.

    I forgot to take an image of the rear of the vehicle.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
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  7. Megatron118

    Megatron118 Excelsior! Moderator

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    Does anyone potentially need BW Megatron and Dinobot? They’re great figures but unfortunately I think I need to trim the collection a little
     
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  8. Neekotron

    Neekotron We're in Ratbat Country!

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  9. blastoff2334

    blastoff2334 Figure Enthusiast

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    So what is the best way to fix kingdom tracks I just picked him up.Do u guys recommend a upgrade, the JRC design leg pieces? or something diffrent or?
     
  10. Racer_J

    Racer_J Well-Known Member

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    This is highly dependant on what is wrong combined with what you want.


    Are the pins (look at the small end of the pin, not the large flat section of it) flush with on the front fenders?

    If they aren't this is the primary reason that this section doesn't want to stay in place in robot mode.

    There are three ways to fix this:

    You can purchase the leg-locks from JRCD (you need to remove them for transformation).

    You can glue pieces of plastic onto the tabs on the shin panel so that they will actually tab into the front fenders in robot mode *edit* or, you can purchase a set of 3D printed nylon parts (off of a trusted seller on eBay) that you glue into place on the shin panels which will tab into the front fenders */edit*.

    You can pad both sides of the pin with something really soft/thick and then use a pair of channel locks or a clamp (you really want a flat faced object where both sides remain level to each other) to try and force the pin in further so that it's flush with the fender. You may or may not damage/break the toy while doing this.


    Are the front fenders trying to "pop out" in vehicle mode?

    If they are, the primary cause of this is the variance in tolerances from copy to copy and the small round pegs being to small.

    There are three ways to fix this:

    Massage the vehicle mode and hope you won the QC lottery.

    You can purchase the fender clip from JRCD.

    You can try to slightly enlarge the round pegs on the front fenders with something that will not damage the plastic.


    Is it an issue that wasn't addressed in this reply (or another reply)?

    Just let everyone know what the issue is so we can try to help.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
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  11. Lazerwave

    Lazerwave My Most Prized Treasure

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    Package of the day
    20210920_125837.jpg
     
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  12. SJW

    SJW Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely agree with you.

    I agree with a lot of the comments from you on Huffer.

    A few people in the UK toy thread within the site had issues with Huffer not tabbing together very well in alt mode. One has to manipulate and keep at it till you get the figure better formed up.

    I would add I have the Go Better kit (as below)

    1C787DE1-0C75-4496-8818-7FF5D6F8857A.png

    and I think helps with firming up Huffer in alt mode. I recently found out there is another kit (cheaper) for Huffer which provides only leg fillers. It doesn’t provide hand covers or a full rear bumper in alt mode. The cheaper kit is below:

    7F68A69C-6F2F-477B-A3C9-92352B52D445.png

    Given Pipes/Puffer is not far away from being released I might give the cheaper filler kit a try although my head tells me to get the Go Better kit for them.

    Anyway, I posted a number of the photos below to another thread and think it might be useful to place here piggybacking on yours and @gbm posts:

    04DF20B5-50F7-4C24-BFB6-8EF46E55AF89.jpeg 0E417D95-4432-43A8-B565-CB48CCE466C3.jpeg
    3E730DA6-0899-4346-BC2C-83DC9ADA3B49.jpeg
    EC10E408-D258-4C12-955E-9E3AE2D3DAE7.jpeg 71CA2969-8BDF-4648-B38B-D03142F3979C.jpeg 81A235E5-883F-4DA0-8B9B-D566166B83BE.jpeg FAADDC29-A03C-482A-AE4E-7F4B650DAD3A.jpeg
    969BABFE-364E-40A9-A0B1-5BA5BE0161BC.jpeg
    E99A5074-7707-418D-8255-74A131541727.jpeg
    E70CB1F8-BC8A-4D93-B6C3-23D8278372CE.jpeg

    I’m very happy with Huffer and looking forward to getting my mitts on Pipes/Puffer. That Go Better kit is very clever and once installed can stay in between the modes. I’m sure it helps with stability and maintaining Huffer’s structure in alt mode.

    EAD51F3D-F879-4E96-87A2-D36DB82E9E16.jpeg
    9887DF6C-E64F-42DA-8C0C-AE975B8F0BB6.jpeg
     
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  13. gbm

    gbm Well-Known Member

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    Great post

    Very thorough.
     
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  14. Racer_J

    Racer_J Well-Known Member

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    Oh no, I didn't even know that was thing. It can take a bit of effort (not too much) to peg the shoulders into the hips on my copy so, I hadn't considered that there were copies on the polar opposite of that scale.


    I think a lot of it will vary from copy to copy as well as how far "up" someone inserts the filler piece that slides into the cab which flips out to cover the hands in vehicle mode. I can see situations where the added additional orange plastic on the undercarriage near the crotch can be an improvement ("oh, the legs collapse/fold further than I thought thought") or a hindrance (even more restriction against the crotch that forces an angle that isn't level).

    I agree that overall, the Go Better Studio kit makes it feel firmer though since it boxes out the rear half of the vehicle and the flip out section that covers the hands can apply a bit more pressure in the right spots.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
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  15. Fenrys

    Fenrys Formerly Tigatron2002

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    Ebay:
    Jrcdesignstore.com also has a huffer kits that is pretty good and on the cheaper side price wise
     
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  16. Arduous

    Arduous Megatron Rules All TFW2005 Supporter

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  17. Houndini

    Houndini Hound. That's all. Thank you for your time.

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    Nice one, lucky bugger;)  Wave three still hasn't even begun trickling in here yet, hoping Core Soundwave and Snot Vertebreak will hit shelves by the end of the month.
     
  18. Metroplex[IH]

    Metroplex[IH] Well-Known Member

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    For me, it's the fact that it's the ship mode that suffers the most.
     
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  19. Maximus Danz

    Maximus Danz Wreck N' Rule

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    Man, while the mold is decent on its own (far from the worst but not my favorite), man, Skywarp II does something right for me.

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Lazerwave

    Lazerwave My Most Prized Treasure

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