Heavy/Scratch: Various mods (of mods), custom stuff

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by ziltama, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. Ricardo Dawkins

    Ricardo Dawkins Well-Known Member

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    Love the walk-thru. It'll come quite handy when I get my materials (resin not readily available in my country) to make Weaponizers Cog & SixGun body parts duplicated for my Transformers collection.
     
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  2. Kaleb Hart

    Kaleb Hart The TRUE commander

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    what did you use for Jetfire's helmet antennas?
     
  3. warhawk

    warhawk Well-Known Member

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    Those Kremzeeks came out really good. I still haven't sat down and ordered supplies, but I wanted to thank you for the tutorials, in case I didn't before.
     
  4. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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  5. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Thanks. Before starting, make sure to get a pressure pot, otherwise even solid color castings may turn out poorly. Unlike most youtube videos that cast larger objects, you need bubble free for smaller transformers items for both looks and function (able to handle stress and not break where an air bubble would be). I converted a cheap Harbor Freight paint pot to a pressure pot. There's multiple guides / videos on this.
     
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  6. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    1b. Siege Brunt Transparent Orange Nozzle v2

    Sometimes, you get air bubbles trapped in your silicone mold if the bubble can't escape upwards (the bubble can't go through the original object above it and gets trapped). This can happen with more complex shapes or orientation of the object. One example: the nozzle of a cannon is pointed straight down when pouring silicone. A small air bubble could get trapped in the nozzle and can't escape upwards. When pouring and casting resin afterwards, this will leave an extra solid resin bubble.

    I can usually cut them out or use a drill bit (by hand, not power driller) as Siege ports are 5mm and I have a 5mm drill bit. For clear objects, this is a problem as this can leave marks that are easily seen through the transparent plastic.

    My earlier custom Brunt nozzle had an extra solid resin bubble, which doesn't look bad from certain angles but did block placing certain blast effects in it.
    bubble.jpg

    If the extra resin bubble was on the outside, then it's easier to fix. Inside the nozzle, not so much. I made another mold and made sure to have the nozzle pointed upwards instead. I chopped up some leftover silicone from a previous molding attempt and used that to suspend the bottom peg off the bottom of my molding container. The first casting attempt was a disaster. I thought I had gotten enough of the resin in but an air bubble got stuck near the middle and everything above it was the consistency of tissue paper. Only the bottom 1/3 got fully casted. Attempted again. Cut out a small air vent that would connect with the peg and made sure I had room for a resin reservoir on top to help fill in the mold as air bubbles escape. One way to create a reservoir is to use painter's tape and create an extra well on top of your mold (the tape won't stick to silicone but will stick to itself). Used a disposable pipette and made sure the resin got to the very bottom. The next picture shows a successful cast (you don't need a reservoir of that ridiculous size but I was going to have excess resin anyways) on the left and earlier failed attempt on the right.
    cast1.jpg

    I cut off the air vent piece and cleaned off the flash when I noticed tiny resin bubbles attached to almost all the fins. Brunt's nozzle shape is fairly complex to mold and these tiny bubbles couldn't escape. I used a razor to cut off all the tiny resin bubbles. As long as you make fairly straight and clean razor cuts, multiple layers of clear coat sprays will be able to hide the cut marks. In this case, did 4 (2 clear orange coats followed by 2 clear coats). Left the handle clear and was wrapped with painter's tape while I was doing clear coats. If the peg is too loose on figures, you can also brush on a thin layer of resin, let it cure and harden, and then sand down to fit.
    cannon1.jpg

    brunt1.jpg brunt2.jpg brunt3.jpg
     
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  7. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    25. Extra cannon tip for Siege Megatron for G1 look

    This one was straight forward. I had done something similar before to extend Sky Shadow's cannon. This time, it's for G1 deco for Siege Megatron. Made a mold of the end part of Megatron's sword cannon. To help make sure the nozzle was pointed upwards to avoid a trapped air bubble, I cut a hole on the bottom of a disposable medicine cup, pushed the cannon through the bottom, used tape on the bottom to prevent any leakage, and used extra tape on top to make a taller well to get enough of the cannon molded. The bottom part of the cannon was secured in a plastic cup with supports to keep it upright.

    I only casted in clear because I was doing Brunt's cannon at the same time. I had made molds earlier of 5mm pegs and made another peg. I then sanded down the bottom end of the new cannon cast, drilled a 5mm hole, and attached the peg (can use epoxy to secure along with a nail; in this case, though, the friction fit was so tight that I left it alone for now; if it comes apart, I'll secure it better later).
    megs1.jpg

    After this, used Tamiya silver spray paint followed by black paint for detailing by hand. You can seal silver paint (and even those chrome markers) without smudging if you use an archival varnish. It's extra stinky until it fully cures but is fairly durable. I use Krylon Gallery Series UV Archival Varnish spray (glossy version) for silver/chrome paints to protect the color.

    megs3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  8. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    26. Custom hitch adapter for Siege Optimus Prime to use MP10V trailer.

    custom1.jpg

    I've detailed issues in other threads before for using third party trailers on Siege OP: the 5mm port is too close to the cab and his legs go up at an angle requiring higher clearance for the trailer. Trailers designed for Classics OP will not work as they do not have enough clearance: Fansproject G3 trailer and the BTS trailer (I don't have this one but someone else here confirmed it also does not have enough clearance). These trailers will then go up at an angle. MP size trailers would be too big.

    I took a gamble and got the MP10V trailer: downsized KO MP trailer. Amazingly enough, this trailer is just about perfect for Siege OP: has the right clearance, has the right proportions, and can at least fit deluxe class figures inside. The only problem is that you need a custom hitch adapter in order to fit Siege OP securely. The trailer uses its own rotating hitch with 2 thin rectangular tabs. As the 5mm port on OP's legs is too close to the cab, the adapter would need to go over the twin 3mm pegs further back on OP's legs. These pegs are also in the right position for the trailer.

    I made mine out of resin. If you want to make your own adapter, then try using cheap basswood from a crafts store: cut and sand down to size to fit snug between the tabs on the hitch, drill in the twin 3mm holes or cut out a 3mm wide slot on the bottom, and then use black acrylic paint with clear coats to give a faux plastic look.

    Roller has a hidden port for the trailer hitch, so I unpinned that and made a resin copy of it. I then cut and sanded down the resin copy to size. My original protoype was not flush with OP's legs which went up at an angle but still functionally worked. The main problem was that the port on Roller is actually hollow on the inside. So the copy was also hollow, which then did not allow me to drill 3mm holes on the bottom side. I filled it in with clear resin on my prototype, but for the final version, I cut out the pillar in the silicone mold that made the hollow part so the final piece was solid throughout. I then carefully sanded the bottom on the final version at an angle to match OP's legs. Then I drilled two 3mm holes on the bottom piece.

    The hitch's rectangular pegs have to be perpendicular lengthwise to OP's legs as the twin 3mm peg spacing on OP's leg is wider than the distance between the tabs on the hitch. These are some pics of the hitch adapter (my prototype friction fitted OP's legs stronger but the final is friction fitting the hitch much stronger).

    custom3.jpg custom4.jpg

    custom2.jpg

    These pictures show how much rotation is allowed. Taking off the toyhax smokestacks doesn't add that much more rotation.
    custom5.jpg custom6.jpg

    Edit #1: The repair drone pod seems like it should accept 5mm pegs but it does not. My 4.5mm drill bit fit just fine but not 5mm pegs. By hand, I carefully expanded the ports to 5mm so that the drone pod can use Siege Blast Effects.

    Edit #2: I ran out of Autobot stickers to put on the trailer. I used a clear sticker sheet (thought silver backing would clash with the white background on the trailer), printed out Autobot symbols, sprayed one coat of varnish to seal the ink, and then used a Cricut machine to cut the stickers out.

    Edit #3: I took out the bit about the Fansproject City Commander trailer. Like any other trailer for Classics OP, this will not work well. I tried to make a resin copy of the crossbar connector and then modded it for the twin 3mm pegs. Had the same problem as other trailers as the bar is not high enough to clear OP's legs. If you sand down the bar, then the big gun blaster piece of the trailer may not properly stick together.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  9. Furnace

    Furnace Ant-droid at a picnic

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    So much great stuff here!
     
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  10. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    WIP: Other LED ideas for Jetfire

    The cockpit is a potential area for a LED mod. I made a clear resin copy of the cockpit piece. I was annoyed how it ended up with a missing gap (should have cut in a resin reservoir in the mold) although no bubbles were otherwise in the rest of the piece. However, it may end up being useful as an easier way to access the power switch. The gap in no way affects the outer appearance.

    cockpit1.jpg cockpit2.jpg

    jetfire3.jpg
     
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  11. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    25b. Tweaking peg for custom Megatron back pack nozzle

    The peg ended up being loose. I coated just the end part of the peg in resin, let it cure and then harden in the toaster oven, and then sanded down to fit 5mm properly. You normally don't need to coat the entire peg to fit a port properly. However, I wasn't aware that Megatron's back pack ports don't have the same width all the way down. It's tighter on top but bigger than 5mm afterward. So, adding resin just at the end of the peg didn't fix the loose peg problem. It needed extra resin at the base of the peg. I ended up coating the whole peg afterward (kept twirling it around until it reached POT time so that the resin wouldn't pool in one area), let it cure and harden, and then carefully sanded down to fit snug in the back pack port all the way through.

    Noted after making the custom nozzle that you can also add it onto his main cannon to get a CW style cannon:
    blasts2.jpg
    blasts3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  12. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    WIP. Attempt at a trailer hitch for Battle Core Optimus Prime with SND upgrade kit (Nova Prime). I don't think I'll ever update this from WIP status, however.

    There's a goal here to get trailers for all our Optimus Primes. There likely is no trailer with high enough clearance for a better fit. Without the SND kit, there's more options, though.

    I used my modified Boku BK02 trailer (permanent custom rotating MP10 hitch and modded higher clearance for Legendary OP). I saw that I could add a port for a removable hitch that would not interfere with the existing custom hitch.

    The hitch port on Battle Core OP is 5mm but has weird notches cut out from the sides. Standard 5mm pegs will not fit. I made a resin copy of one of OP's blaster handles (they both have the notched pegs) and added a 3mm peg (carefully drilled out a 3mm hole and placed a peg into it with epoxy). I sized it for the trailer to sit level just behind the add-on armor on the legs. I drilled a 3mm hole underneath the trailer.

    trailer2.jpg

    It looks OK at best. The blue doesn't match. The main problem is how the hitch port comes together on Battle Core OP. The port is split in half between OP's legs (typically a bad design idea...amongst many flaws in this mold). The weight of the trailer will cause the legs to split apart and then the hitch will fail. Tried for several minutes before I got one shot in where the port miraculously didn't come apart.

    trailer1.jpg

    I don't have any more ideas for this...outside of using a rubber band. This mod is only good for brief photo ops and not for play.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2019
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  13. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    23b. LED mod for cockpit and red versions

    Ended up making a clear resin copy of the cockpit piece. Tried to experiment a little bit with different clear / opaque sprays. Ended up with frosted glass spray (from any hardware store). Used a simple LED circuit with a switch and stuffed it inside the cockpit piece. I did cut out the divider between the two sections of the cockpit piece.

    Edit: Used a white 3mm LED which inserts into the port on the back of the cockpit piece (not sure why it even has a port in the first place). Able to sit flush in the cockpit without having to file a path for the LED wires.

    LED off:
    cockpit.jpg

    LEDs on:
    jetfirecockpit.jpg

    Decided to try for red color scheme as well for Decepticon mode. Made another resin copy of the eyes and colored it red. Used a red LED in the cockpit.

    jetfirered2.jpg

    While I was in there, fixed the positioning of the power switch. It had partially slipped out the lightpiping window. If it happens again, I could try to add on some resin to the power switch to add extra width to it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  14. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    27. Custom side ports for Legendary Optimus Prime

    sideports3.jpg

    Overall, this is a great movie OP (official oversized Evasion OP and labeled as coming from Bumblebee movie...although this version is not in the movie). There is a minor (maybe major for some) problem with its hands: unable to hold weapons adequately. The open hand design seems like it should be sturdy in person but fails once you put a weapon in its hands. Unfortunately, there are no side ports on the arms for movie style melee weapons.

    Made a custom sideport that plugs into the half-port looking holes on both arms. To start making an adapter, used silicone putty (normally horrible to use for molding but useful in cases like this) to make a negative mold. Placed some putty into the half-ports and later cut it down to a manageable size.

    ports1.jpg

    Poured silicone over that (must use a release spray to avoid all the silicone from becoming one solid mass). Then made a resin cast of that and sanded / cut down to size. Looked through various 5mm ports from accessories and found a square-ish one I liked. Made a resin copy of that. Then carefully superglued them together to make a prototype.

    ports2.jpg

    ports3.jpg

    Started to experiment with color matching resin. I was limited as I didn't have all the dyes I needed. Tried red and worked well. I did very light coats of smoke (transparent black) spray to get the color to better match. Next time, I'll try to get some black dye and mix to avoid painting.

    sideports1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  15. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    WIP: Fracas clone

    fracas.jpg
     
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  16. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    WIP: Fracas clone II

    Getting closer. When molding and casting, sometimes joints end up just right, loose, or too tight. In this case, too loose. I have some ideas to make the ball joints tighter: electrical tape (fastest), 5 minute epoxy, and more resin. To prototype, I'll use electrical tape. After that, depending on the joint, I may still end up with electrical tape or use 5 minute epoxy. Both are relatively soft and have a rubbery surface to increase friction.

    I'm going to call this either "Negative" or "Boxart" Fracas. Finished the painting on the body parts and pinning. Also need to figure out a way to get a tiny Decepticon logo on there.

    wip2.jpg
     
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  17. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    28. Custom resin clone of Fracas a.k.a. Box Art Fracas

    I wanted to do something that was more in line with the box art, so here's Negative or Box Art Fracas. There's some still tweaking in terms of tightening the joints / ports further, but it's working now. I think I'll end up adding some resin to the ball joints later to make them thicker. The dark gray ended up being a little lighter than I was expecting (looks darker than the photo in real life, though), although I may just try regular black if I do this all over again.

    Made molds of all 7 parts and casted them in dark resin with some white dye added. The center body parts needed painting in light gray (just did Tamiya gray primer followed by clear coats). Did the dull red and copper paints by hand on the body and head. Cut up a nail to use as the pin.

    fracas1.jpg

    fracas2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2019
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  18. Raze134

    Raze134 Member

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    I've been wanting to do the same paint job on my seeker's wings. Just a little bit of color makes the whole thing nicer.
     
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  19. Damocles Prime

    Damocles Prime Member

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    I always get air bubbles when casting anything but reaction figure parts? Do you use/have a vacuum chamber? If not what do you do?
     
  20. wwoptimusprime

    wwoptimusprime Till all are one

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    Pmd ya.