Heavy/Scratch: Various mods (of mods), custom stuff

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by ziltama, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Ran out of silicone, so not molding for a little while. I'm tempted to cold cast some metal looking parts when I do get more buckets of silicone. Made copies of the toyhax seeker fin earlier and now painting them to match the Rainmakers.

    colors.jpg
     
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  2. Ricardo Dawkins

    Ricardo Dawkins Well-Known Member

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    Wow-- loves this
     
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  3. GAUGE

    GAUGE In Art, There Is No Impossible

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    It's truly too bad, you're not making clear orange barrels for Siege Brunt to sell.

    I'd totally buy one.
     
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  4. smiller0570

    smiller0570 Maximal

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    These are amazing my good sir!!!! Outstanding!! I would definitely purchase a smaller Galvatron cannon and the seekers tail fins if you were to sell these. Love seeing the work you do here!!
     
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  5. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    I think my next project will be something involving LEDs. Making blueprints in my head.

    Anyhow, updated the Decepticon faction add-on for Jetfire's armored mode. I did try to paint over the all the silver parts of the symbol with the smallest detail brush I had, however, the symbol then basically disappeared as the purple didn't stand out from the black. I then tried a more scratched up appearance, which I think turned out better.

    logo2.jpg
     
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  6. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    While I wait for LED parts to arrive, I'm trying to finish some other projects. Made a resin copy of a 3rd party MP Bumblebee jetpack. Looks big on Bee but seems OK for Siege Prime. Cut off the attachments for Bee and made 2 half pegs to attach on the inside of the jetpack to attach to Siege OP's back. Need to sand some parts down, add paint, and then make effects parts with non-standard 4mm pegs.

    jetpack.jpg

    I was assembling new stands (clear Bandai Action Base 4) and noticed that some of the sprues would make cool swords / light sabers. I have an idea to make a Kylo Ren style saber for Red Wing but I need to get some more black resin for the handle.
     
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  7. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Decided to carefully expand the 4mm holes to 5mm so that I can use existing blast effects. Used 4, 4.5, and then 5mm drill bits by hand to do this. I messed up painting so I used windex to remove the acrylic paint, which then left the primer layer. Going to try again.

    jetpack2.jpg
     
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  8. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    19. Jetpack for Siege Optimus Prime

    Made resin copy of X2Toys jetpack for MP Bumblebee. Mods: Removed BB attachment parts, made 5mm ports in exhausts, and added 2 half pegs as attachment (jetpack wasn't quite wide enough for the ports on OP's back but using half pegs work). Now finished painting (primer spray for the light gray, gunmetal gray spray paint for the sides, hand brushed black paint on the exhausts, and hand brushed chrome silver for some accents).

    jetpackpegs.jpg
    jetpackop.jpg

    jetpackop2.jpg
     
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  9. Awesomepow

    Awesomepow Well-Known Member

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    Just looked through this thread, keep up the amazing job.
     
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  10. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Added faux pulley cables to Hightower. My original plan didn't work as I couldn't find the exact supplies I needed locally. This will do for now (one long 1mm elastic cord with a simple triple knot).

    pulley.jpg
     
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  11. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    20. Pulley cables for Studio Series Hightower

    The original prototype pics had cables in Devastator mode but are now absent. I used one 0.5mm elastic cord (has to be elastic to allow the truss to move and for his transformations) to weave in and out of the truss (was going to use multiple cords but didn't look any better and 1 is much easier to deal with). I couldn't find 0.5mm elastic cord in black locally, so I used tye dye on a white one to get a dark grey, which looked good. Unlike the first version above, the width of 2 cords is now small enough to go into a standard 2mm crimp tube (inside diameter of 1.3-1.4mm). None of the transformations are effected. The truss is able to move forward but will spring back to whatever position you set as neutral with the cord. If you want to keep the truss forward in alt mode, then use the joint just above the base. If you want to try this yourself, the earlier version above (with 1mm elastic black cord from a local crafts store) is definitely much easier with a simple hand tied knot that you can easily hide.

    hightower.jpg hightower2.jpg hightower3.jpg hightower4.jpg hightower5.jpg

    This is a shot of the crimp tube and how the cord runs underneath the black plate thingie:
    tube.jpg
     
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  12. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    I was planning to fix Studio Series Rampage's misassembled black belly piece (it's on backwards) but forgot about it. Then I was reminded by this post:
    Movieverse Toys Appreciation Thread! EXPLOSIONS!!!

    You need a soldering iron for this. If you don't feel comfortable using a soldering iron or worried that you'll burn surrounding plastic, then do NOT attempt. Even though it's on backwards, it does not affect transformation.

    There are 2 screws on the right side of the torso. Remove them. You can now remove the bulldozer blade and the grey support wheel (don't forget to put them back on when re-assembling). There are 2 flat head pins connected to each side of the backwards black belly piece. You have to remove them both, rotate the belly piece 180 degrees, and then re-assemble everything.

    To remove the flathead pins, you need to use a soldering iron to heat up the flathead part, which will then melt the plastic surrounding the pin. (The plastic should cool down to the way it was before after you're done.) You have to be careful to only touch the flathead part and not melt the surrounding the plastic. In this case, you only have a few mm clearance around your soldering iron. My soldering iron failed at 270 degrees but worked at 320 degrees while touching the pin for about 40-50 seconds. After heating and putting down your soldering iron in its holder, you can then try to gently pry apart the lower body part with the pin away from the belly piece. Repeat for the other side.

    When putting back together after rotating the black belly piece, if the pins won't go fully back in (which is actually a good sign), you can either try to heat up the pins again or use a pin punch (which is what I used).

    This is after removing both pins, rotating the belly piece the right way (180 degrees), and starting to reassemble. I thought I took some pics earlier in the process, but I guess not.
    rampage.jpg

    The black belly piece is now in the correct configuration:
    belly.jpg
    rampage2.jpg
     
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  13. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Forgot to add a pictures of Rampage's alt mode with the fixed black belly piece.
    belly2.jpg
    altram.jpg
     
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  14. Hooper_X

    Hooper_X stunticon my haters

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    This is low-key one of my favorite threads on the entire forum.

    Everything you post is clever as hell, and you're exceptionally good about providing enough information for the rest of us to follow along at home.

    Thanks, man.
     
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  15. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Thanks. I figure if I'm going through this much effort, I should share the knowledge.

    Edit: Maybe I should do a post about pinning Siege Seeker chests while I wait for parts for my upcoming LED project.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
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  16. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    21. Kylo Ren style saber for Red Wing

    When putting together Bandai stands, I thought some of the clear sprues would make good use as a saber. Ended up making a light-up saber. Used a 3mm red fishing lure LED. I found a good t-shaped sprue piece, cut it down, did some sanding and polishing, and then used clear pearl Tamiya spray to make the light reflect better internally. The sprue happened to be 3.5mm wide. I used a 5mm rod and drilled a 3.5mm hole but almost to the end. There's a 3mm hole at the very end to push the LED out if needed and won't let the LED slide all the way through. Cut a perpendicular 3.5mm hole at the top of the hilt for the side saber arms to fit through. Used a small 5mm tube to cover the top base of the t-saber piece. Spray painted the hilt pieces black. The red swirl was completely unintentional but cool looking, so not going to paint over that part again.

    No special graphics fx used for the pics. Just the camera and standard room lighting.

    saberoff.jpg
    saber2.jpg
    saberbattle.jpg

    Edit: The saber dis-assembled:
    saberparts.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2019
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  17. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    This is a WIP for a LED sword for Predaking based on Season 3 episode "Chaos" (the one he uses for like 2 seconds ever). Now have a working prototype. I have to wait for a different power switch part to arrive next week, so can't finish it yet.

    predsword.jpg
     
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  18. trence5

    trence5 Well-Known Member

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    Is this the only fandom that actually improves the toys from the manufacturer?
     
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  19. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Maybe not the only (Gundam is in its own league) but definitely one of the more aggressive ones.

    Doing weight and lighting tests while awaiting new power switch (need one switch to operate 2 sets of batteries [separate red and blue lights]). Also need to redo one of the tube parts before sanding and polishing the hilt.
    sword dark.jpg sword bright.jpg
     
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  20. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Getting closer. I had to re-do some of the aluminum tubing and had to re-do a lot of the wiring to get everything to fit after I got the new power switch. Need to finish the end part of the hilt, which has the switch and do some basic decorative work.

    Basic components so far: Acrylic tubing (1/2"), aluminum tubing (5/8" and 1/2"), blue and red 5mm square LED modules (can't buy "purple" LEDs; UV is not the same or even remotely OK to use for this; you can "mix" LEDs with a diffusor like cellophane wrap), and 2 pairs of SR44 batteries (one for each LED). Doing any other color would have been so much easier since you would just use one LED.

    predsword1.jpg predsword2.jpg
     
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