Heavy/Scratch: Various mods (of mods), custom stuff

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by ziltama, Jul 3, 2019.

  1. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    These aren't all of them but a few that were still easy to photograph. Most involve some sort of peg issue, whether it's for a limb, head, or weapon piece. I usually try to fix the peg with the original pieces first with molding / casting as a last resort.

    The main idea is to make a new "skeleton" for the broken peg with a metal nail. You would drill holes into the peg on both sides of the break, place a metal nail, use epoxy to bind everything together, and then you have a fixed peg. This should resist most normal forces and not break. The metal skeleton will handle the stress instead; without it, the peg will just break off again. I use a 1/16th inch or 1.5mm drill bit to drill the holes and then use a nail that's just under that size. Use a tin snip to cut the nail to the right length (and to cut off the head and point). There are nail that also have ribs, which hold better. You want a nail just under the drill bit size to allow room for epoxy. Use 5 minute epoxy (actual use will be longer due to the small amount used and hardening takes a lot longer). Use the stuff that comes in 2 bottles and not a syringe; you can then control how much you need to make and not be limited to 1 or 2 uses. The epoxy will want to expand and may eject part of the nail, so you'll need to apply pressure for a while. While the epoxy is curing, you can adjust the peg to be straight. You should wait a day or two before using the peg again as the epoxy will take about that long to harden enough for use. Epoxy tends to bind better to nails that are roughed by low grit sand paper and have ribs. I don't have any great examples of this method right now since the pegs look normal from the outside.

    If there is some sort of channel, then you don't have to drill. You can just place a nail and use epoxy. This example is from a broken wing mechanism off one of Knight Watch Bumblebee's dragons (from Rescue Bots):
    dragon.jpg

    If you somehow have access directly underneath a broken peg, then using a screw would be better. This is from a 3rd party add-on for Classics Prime. The head peg was way too tight and snapped off right away on first use. Drilled a hole from underneath just far and big enough for a screw to fit. The screw itself can act as a new peg. I could have done something fancy to cover up the screw hole like put in epoxy, sand, and color match to make it look like nothing ever happened. I opted later to put an Autobot sticker over it.

    magnus1.jpg magnus2.jpg

    This is a more extreme example of using a nail as a skeleton. My son was trying a kibble-less POTP Nemesis Prime robot mode by removing the legs from Nemesis Pax. However, he ended up tearing off the right hip skirt piece. The o-ring part had broken off. I was going to just super glue it together and then mold / cast a new piece. I then decided to try drilling two different areas to fit a nail through and barely had enough clearance for this (about half a mm). I had forgotten to keep pressure on the nails when the epoxy was curing and the nails got pushed out a little bit. I was thinking about sanding them off later but I didn't want to risk breaking it all over again. I could just paint over the nail bits with black paint. The hip skirt is repaired and has survived numerous transformations so far.

    hipskirt.jpg

    For this example, I had used a 3rd party add-on to give SDCC Scrapper a working elbow. The left arm worked great. The right arm did not. The mushroom peg kept coming out. Nothing I tried kept the mushroom peg in. I used a thin aluminum sheet (can get at crafts store), cut out a piece, flattened it out (thin metal warps easily from cutting; thick pliers are useful for small pieces like this to act as a small press), angled the edges to shape, roughed up the metal and plastic with low grit sand paper, and then used 5 minute epoxy. The thin metal piece now prevents the loose mushroom peg from coming out.

    scrapper.jpg
     
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  2. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    15. Custom cape for Matrix Workshop Add-ons for Siege Starscream

    Matrix Workshop has been making 3rd party add-ons for various Siege figures. The Starscream one comes with 1 gold crown, 2 purple shoulder pads, and 2 null rays that look more like classic design (not shown here). I painted a red jewel with clear red Tamiya paint on the crown. Went over all the parts with clear coats to protect the color (base plastic color is white and painted over).

    Bulk of my time went to making a cape. It's 2-tone: I have lighter shade of purple in front and darker shade on the back. Sewed 2 layers of fabric together. Used knit fabric since woven fabric on an action figure may end up looking like and behaving like paper. I sewed in 16 gauge wire to make it poseable. I wanted to make it 1986 movie style by having the cape go between the body and wings, and to have it plug into the shoulder pads. This required a split down the middle of the upper part, and I used a barrel clasp to hold the upper cape together. I had extra wiring at the ends to plug into the shoulder pads (I drilled holes into the 'vent' area of the shoulder pads.
    cape.jpg

    IMG_1002.JPG
     
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  3. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    16. Custom adapter for CW Legends Shockwave for anyone to hold him

    Copied the Perfect Effect / Combiner add-on for Shockwave and heavily modified it, including adding a new peg. The part was too long, which then made it not possible for Bruticus (or most other combiners) to hold Shockwave up. CW Shockwave has an odd circle and square peg setup that makes it difficult for most bots to hold him. The peg is held in place with a small flat head nail and epoxy. You can see the tail end of the nail in the close up picture of the part. I tried a pseudo-transparent purple pain job on part of the piece. The casted plastic is white but you can achieve the shiny purple look by using transparent spray paint followed by clear coats. The peg itself is a clear, hollow 5mm tube and mostly filled with epoxy. There's a bit at the end that I'll end up filling with more epoxy later.

    swpart.jpg
    swave2.jpg
     
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  4. Gepard

    Gepard Well-Known Member

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    Any chance you'd sell clear Brunt barrels?
     
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  5. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Sorry, I don't plan on selling anything here. Regardless, I don't have the mold anymore. I had cut into the mold wrong in the 1st place. Luckily, the 1st attempt worked. The 2nd one pulled out chunks of silicone and effectively destroyed the mold.
     
  6. oneyouknowleast

    oneyouknowleast Well-Known Member

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    Whats brands of resin and silicone do you use?
     
  7. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    I use Smooth-On products, mainly because there is a local distributor for them nearby, so I can get anything I want without having to wait for mail order. Art stores have very limited supplies of Smooth-On products in comparison and not the ones I prefer to use anyways.

    I use Dragon Skin (platinum cure) for pouring silicone. It's fairly tough stuff and keeps shape very well. I use a pressure pot (made by converting a paint pot from Harbor Freight + air compressor) to de-gas instead of a degassing chamber.

    For white plastic, I use Smooth Cast white. It's brighter than most white Transformers plastics. For black plastic, I use Smooth Cast Onyx. This black perfectly matches black Transformers plastic. For clear, I use Crystal Clear. I haven't tried color matching resin yet, but I will soon. Even for opaque plastic, you still need to use a pressure pot to avoid getting dimples and bubble pockets.

    There are different versions of each product but ultimately comes down to how fast / slow it cures. Faster cure times lead to less working time and more potential for bubbles. I usually go for versions that are the 2nd fastest now. Alternatively, you can go for a slow product and then use a toaster oven afterward to speed up hardening.

    Trying to use these without a pressure pot is an expensive recipe for disaster. Clear resin work absolutely requires good ventilation and even a gas mask. Clear resin takes forever to harden enough for actual use, so I use a toaster oven. I limit use of oven to half the packaging directions. Past this, the silicone will start permanently bonding to the resin for these relatively small parts.
     
  8. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    13e. Copies of Jetfire's blast effects

    Same as before but a little more difficult to de-mold without breaking tips off. Used clear resin, transparent color spray paints (orange: 2 coats of clear orange; purple: 1 coat of clear red, 1 coat of clear blue), and then 2 clear coats to protect the color (and give more shine).

    IMG_1014.JPG
     
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  9. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Here are other views of the cape. The partial split cape makes the movie look possible. The barrel clasp holds the upper cape together and fits nicely on top, even when using the Toyhax fin. I may end up making a 2nd "action" cape; although the dimensions may be too long when fully straightened out, it would allow for more dramatic poses.

    cape1.jpg cape2.jpg
     
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  10. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    13f. Copies of Pteraxadon and Terror-Daxtyl's blast effects

    Made copies of the Battle Masters axe effect in faction colors. I may end up doing a blue one later.

    axes.jpg
     
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  11. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    2b. Copy of Toyhax fin for Thundercracker

    Made a black resin cast and then painted over. Used one coat of Tamiya French Blue spray paint followed by one light coat of Tamiya Clear Blue spray paint to get close to the color (matches the painted blue on the chest exact), and then 2 clear coats to protect the color. Did some accent colors too. The Starscream one is also a copy resin piece in case I need the original again. Stays on in robot mode if you leave the thrusters pointing up. Making 3 more fin copies...

    seekers.jpg
     
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  12. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Had various stuff not work out this weekend as planned. Oh well. On the otherhand, now I have a rainbow of Jetfire blast effects:

    rainbow.jpg

    Blue and red: 2 coats of Tamiya clear spray paint followed by 2 clear coats.

    Yellow and green: Brushed on Tamiya clear colors followed by 2 clear coats.
     
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  13. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Tried to make clear resin copies of the blade part of Megatron's sword. These longer pieces are trickier to mold and cast, and they can still end up with air bubbles despite proper prep with a pressure pot. Was about to give up but one half turned out great. The one on the left has chunks missing due to air bubbles but this one has an intact peg (the first attempt had air bubbles taking out chunks from the pegs) but looks OK from the camera angle. Hopefully, third time will be the charm and then I'll go over it with clear purple.

    sword.jpg
     
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  14. fleshling

    fleshling Well-Known Member

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    Are you reconsidering selling the effects? Please?
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2019
  15. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    Nope, sorry, no plans.
     
  16. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    17. Decepticon overlay for armored Jetfire

    My son wanted a Decepticon option for armored Jetfire. I made a simple resin overlay with a sticker that's molded for his chest armor piece and easily removable.

    decepticon.jpg skyfire.jpg
     
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  17. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    18. Custom resin clone of Smashdown with longer handle and "fixed" head.

    Made a copy of Smashdown's parts and casted / painted them in different colors (CW Battle Core Optimus color theme). Made copies of Matrix Workship's handles from the Siege Optimus Prime axe to extend the axe handle. Also shaved down some plastic and drilled a passage for the head to move all the way up in robot mode. Used a threaded rod as a new pin to hold the body together.

    hammer.jpg
    smashdown.jpg skywarpOP.jpg
     
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  18. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    18b. Some more pictures and uses of the handle extensions.

    hammertime.jpg
    swarp.jpg
    extensions.jpg
     
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  19. lilcarus

    lilcarus Well-Known Member

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    instead of the pressure pot have you tried putting your clear sword casting in the fridge instead. the cooler temp lets it cure slower and the bubbles have a chance to work their way out.
     
  20. ziltama

    ziltama Lurks, mods, molds, and casts

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    I thought about getting slower clear resin but it's still relatively brittle compared to the original plastic. Even the one half that worked perfect, the (Edit) peg broke pretty easily after further use. The other half that kept failing was due to me cutting into the mold incorrectly. I eventually gave up on the Megatron sword.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2019