Miscellaneous: Post-processing Magic This shows more of the work done during post-processing, which often ends up being longer than the actual molding and casting times. I used to do almost nothing: just pick flash off with my fingers. Now, it's a lot more work depending on the piece and what needs to be fixed. Later on, I may do a peg specific post. When making a new chest window for Omega Supreme, I had leftover red resin. Used that to make some more Kremzeeks using molds made in the past. 1. Removing casts from mold. This is what totally unprocessed pieces look like. Used Smooth On Crystal Clear resin with So Strong red dye. Heated treated pieces BEFORE demolding for 2 hours at 150 degrees F to let them fully harden to avoid warping. Otherwise, would need to wait a week to fully harden. 2. Cleaning up flash (excess resin). This process may take a few minutes to several hours depending on the complexity of the piece. I try to avoid using 2 part molds for a reason: flash cleanup is a nightmare. Instead of one area that needs clean up from a regular one part mold (just where the incision is made), the entire figure is surrounded by flash. Flash can be as thin as tissue paper and can be removed by your fingers or can be thick and needs a blade or sanding tool. For the Kremzeeks, I had to use a 2 part mold. I pulled off what I could by hand and then used a hobby razor for most of the work. Be very careful when using side cutters. Sometimes, you can't predict how a piece will break off and you don't want a crack or a missing chunk to go into the casted piece itself. There are molding lines which took a lot of time to carefully shave down with a razor so the surface is even on both sides. The original had uneven feet, so I sanded down the feet on these. Now, they can stand upright and be stable. If you do a poor job cleaning up flash, your end project will look poorly, especially if you have to paint. Took about half hour to do the first one. Used 2 different molds, so each piece will have clean ups specific to that mold. The one on the right had more clean up work to do and took longer than the first one. 3. Painting. Even transparent pieces need some paint. My son wanted one Kremzeek to have lighter eyes and the other to have darker eyes. Used Tamiya gunmetal bottle paint for the eyes and mouth on the left and used Tamiya chrome silver bottle paint for the eyes and mouth on the right (if you want something less grainy, Testors has a pretty smooth bottle silver paint). Sounds crazy, but I used acetone on a hobby cotton swab to clean up the edges of the paint that went outside the grooves. The resin I use can withstand short bursts of acetone without melting or disintegrating (even months later). Do NOT do this on any manufactured plastic. 4. "Magic" step. For small, complex pieces, you can not sand and buff them like you see people do on YouTube with much larger and simpler objects. Buffing wheels can easily destroy small plastic pieces (I've lost several pieces that way). Even dremel tools can't reach to all areas on small, complex pieces. My "cheat" or "hack" to make small, complex pieces clear is this: They make several clear sprays. You want TS13, especially for transparent pieces. When making resin copies, you won't get the internal defects but you will still get any and all surface related defects. Clear spray will help to fill in any micro-gaps (my usual rule is any defect you can NOT catch your fingernail on...fix those with sanding / razor shaving first). When I clean up flash, I'll sand down some areas to make them smoother (work my way up to 1500 or sometimes 3000 grit) and/or try to do clean razor cuts or shavings. Then I'll rely on the clear spray to cover up the flash clean up and sanding / razor marks. The resin is now much more transparent, almost gem or jewel like. The surface is now very even due to the acrylic paint and light can better shine through. The Kremzeeks I made are the two on the left. The Kremzeek on the right was used for the original mold and I bought that one off eBay.