My first question is what do I need to remove the paint from a figure? My second question is one of sealing. When at the store today I couldn't remember exactly what it was called that I was looking for, plus they seemed to be out of just about everything. So I ended up buying Krylon Triple Thick Clear Glaze. It says it works on plastics. Should I use this on a Transformer I wish to still be able to transform?
To remove paint: Rubbing Alocohol. To seal paint. Lacquer/clear coat. Never used Krylon, but it sounds like the right stuff to use, and i have heard of many having great results with it. Just put it on in very light coats. If its too thick, it wont transform or the clear will just chip off.
70% or higher Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the paint apps. I wouldn't use that clear, if I were you. One coat of that is "equal" to 3 coats of other clears. Krylon: Products: Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze Try something like this. Krylon: Products: Low Odor Clear Finish Yes, if you leave it in too long it will "cloud" & could crack. Watch your clear pieces carefully.
That first link is exactly what I bought. I couldn't find anything else at that store. Guess I'll look some place else. How long should the paint removal take, or to ask another way, for pieces that have very difficult to remove clear bits (like Drifts headlights) what method/how long should I let the pieces soak? Actually there is a good general question. How long should I let the normal pieces soak in the alcohol? I'm trying to redo this guy and want to start over.
Actually, Drift headlights are not that bad to take out. Just unscrew the dark grey piece from the car hood & fender part of the arms. Now push on the headlight inwards from the outside on the side that's not held in by the lil white tab. It will take a lil force but it will pop out with a snap. Don't worry, you should not have broken anything. Just reverse the order to put back in place As for you question about amount of time. It all depends on the figure it's self & strength of Iso Alcohol. I use 99% Iso myself, normally give my part a 2 to 4 hour soak then use an old toothbrush to remove the paint apps. 99% Iso is hard to find, but don't use anything lower then 70% With clear parts, I check on them every hour. if they look like they are starting to "cloud" or "Fog" I remove them right away & run them under warm water to get the Iso off. Then I let them dry of at least 24hrs & then check for cracking.
Little bit of force nothing. I was literally trying to break the thing it seemed. I finally got them out but wow that was harder than I expected. Thanks for the info though. The clear parts can crack though? That could be a problem since part of the heal uses clear plastic and I would rather not take pins out if I can avoid it.
Yeah, they can crack, shatter & crumble too. i wouldn't worry to much, it normally takes at least 4 hours before it (might) start to happen. Each figure is different, the Uni Lambor mold can sit in Iso for days & nothing will happen. Cybertron Excellion will fall apart just looking at Iso & Deluxe Ani Prime will crack in about 6 hours. Just keep checking on them & you should be fine.
One more thing. Do you happen to know how Drift's windows behave in the alcohol? Are they a problem one?
Well I guess I'm going to find out. I was able to remove the pins from the ankles but the door windows are not budging at all so I have to put them in.
Here's another question. When I go to seal it, the sealer is a spray paint. Could I theoretically spray it into a pool and then dry brush it on?
From personal experience with color spray paints, that do not work to well. If you want to brush on the clear, look for Tamiya or Testors brush on clears. Just make sure you get the right one for the type of paint you use.
Okay I'm approaching the last step and like usual I have a question. How many coats should I use for the sealant? I assume only one but want to make sure.
I've generally been good with one, good coat of a sealant coat (I typically use Future floor polish for mine). I think the key is to make sure you apply your coat (or coats) evenly, making sure they're not thick. Clear coats may be clear, but too much of them and they can gunk up and look yellowish. BTW, I've not used clear, acrylic sprays on customs, but I've used it on block and brick walls when painting murals and it works well. The same guide as I discussed above applies, whether you end up using a spray or brush your coat on.
