Hi. I use a 2mm diameter x 20mm long steel pin that connects the "ER Meg Blade V2" to "ER Meg Swively Bit V2". This pin should stick out either end and act as the pins on the rail guide. I think i also forgot to put in pommel L pommel R in the print folder. They've been added now. Sorry!
fantastic work man!!! I have been looking for a good ion blaster for my prime for a bit now. Kinda surprised you aint selling these....thankful, but surprised.
Thank you! Maybe if the project were bigger I'd charge... With these little customs, either they're so small that the meager amount of money i'd make would be silly, or I'll be in a moral quandary selling these for more. I use ebay for transaction simplicity. When I do sell, I charge $0.99 (because ebay won't let me list anything for cheaper) and you pay for shipping. Usually ends up being around $5 total and i always include a few extra parts Besides! It's fun! If I had more time I'd love to print these and paint them for folks without the means to do so, but I'm pretty swamped at work. I guess the next big print will be for Haslab unicron. I'll be making a lot of customs for that, methinks. My clear purple paint still hasn't come in so megatron's mace is dead in the water...
It certainly can print dental materials and has a lot of background in dental printing. I use it to print neurovascular vessel models for work. Its a very neat printer!
Yeah, your resin prints look amazing. The Form 3B is definitely out of my price range though. (I'm currently leaning toward the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K or Elegoo Saturn.)
I use the Anycubic Photon Mono SE. If you're just starting off on resin printing on a budget and want a good trade-off between features and not breaking the bank, that's what I would recommend. I also have the wash and cure station. It's not necessary but it does make the job a lot easier for post-processing since you can't just pull your prints off the plate and start messing with them like you can with a filament-based printer. I also installed the wham Bam flexible build plate. It's not necessary but being able to pop your prints right off the build plate is a huge quality of life improvement in my opinion. Also I have two plates so while I'm washing my parts still on the plate I can go ahead and queue up another print.
Unfortunately it's been too cold to run my resin printer lately. Went ahead and tried printing in PLA. I'll have to tweak the print size percentages a bit. The lower resolution of my ender3 is resulting in loose pegs and holes. Just about every part can be printed easily in plastic, but the pommel has been particularly difficult to get separated from the supports. I've broken more than 3 of them during the separation process, trying different support types
Either I'm slow or there may be an assembly issue. Before I can even get a pin through the blade and the swively bit, the blade seems to interfere with the rear peg. I feel like I must be doing something wrong because this orientation for the blade feels off and counterintuitive
Ah crap. Just found an error in the model I uploaded. My bad. That cutout the blade should be bigger to let the peg pass through. I think I forgot to save the updated part. Think you can sand away a little more material to make the peg fit! Or use a jewelers saw. I’ll upload the corrected model. Maybe I should make the blade thicker too? It’s awfully thin for no good reason
Thanks for going through the trouble of printing these. I feel so bad that this is giving you so much grief! It’s not a very robust design
Blade thickness hasn't been a problem except at the tip, but even then, I'd say it would just be better to round it off a little at the point rather than thicken the whole thing. I also printed your OP Axe (The non swivel ). Based on your finished photo, I think that may also be a previous revision based on the point of the handle near the blade.
Noted. Yeah... i Need to organize that better. I've done a piss poor job rev controlling... I've renamed the axes and made them less confusing. Try the OP axe Classic. That will have the pointed end. I've also renamed some of the parts "ball joint" instead of "swivel" since they all technically swivel... You'll find the axe that you want under OP AXE Classic OP AXE Blade Classic.STL I've modified and uploaded megs blade v3. ER Meg Blade v3.STL Give that a shot and let me know how it goes!
No worries. I understand how difficult it is to keep up with revisions from my own SG Ultra magnus project. It can be a pain, especially when you come up with a new idea and have to fork the project into separate designs. I think my smaller Magnus head ended up being finalized as "small head v3" and the larger one was like "big head v8.1". I'll give these new revisions of yours a shot when I have some free time to fire up the printer and get back to you with pics.
Ok, I'm still working on getting the sword printed. I've sanded down channel in the previous blade while the new blade is in the printer, and used a small hand drill to open it up ever so slightly to get the 2mm rods through. The problem now is the pommel. The channel for the pin is just too tight. Even with a little bit of time working at it with a needle file, I ended up cracking it with my pin. I'm gonna try scaling the pommel up about 3% to see if it fixes it, but considering how perfectly it fits to the front of the tank section, I think its going to need to be opened up a fraction of a millimeter to make this work. This project has been teaching me a lot about the properties of resin in particular. I haven't had a resin printer for very long, and I've really only used them for high detail parts like heads. The weakness at the layer lines that show up in plastic aren't really a problem with resin but resin is an overall softer material. It sands easier which can be a good or bad thing depending on how rough you're going to be with the part over time and if you're going to paint it. But bare resin scratches much easier than plastic. I'm thinking I may want to consider pursuing trying to get the tolerances right for PLA. Would you mind if I threw these into tinkercad and messed around with the peg sizes a little? Some people get real weird about having their work remixed, so it's always good to check first. I'm not going to upload it anywhere or anything. As for the axe, it's perfect.
Dude go right ahead. Make it your own! I'm all for it! But i think the challenges that you're running into is the exact drawback of free files. it's hardly ever plug and play. I make offsets in the model specifically for my resin and printer to account for the shrinkage and swelling. It's always a challenge jumping from printer to printer... I generally oversize my holes and channels by 4% ... So unless you have a form 3 printer with the formlabs resin, you'll inevitably have to tinker with the offset. As for scratching.... yeah. I need to be super careful and use 6 different grits before it looks good. I've had good success with media blasting....that's really the only way to get a good finish on these parts. Ironically if you're painting anything besides a perfectly sanded part SLA look no better than FDM. Glad the axe works!
