Transform Dream Wave TCW-06 Upgrade Kit Volcanicus

Discussion in 'Transformers 3rd Party Discussion' started by daimchoc, Apr 17, 2018.

  1. Onibaku_Rave

    Onibaku_Rave Posing is part of my religion

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    Nope
     
  2. amd098

    amd098 En taro Artanis!

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    kind of. you can't use the backplate or the back of the crotchplate, but the rest you can all use.
     
  3. Thunderstudent

    Thunderstudent Raiden's Pupil

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    Unless you customize your pe kit.
     
  4. stprime

    stprime THE コンボイ that the Matrix refused

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    well neither showz or ohmyprimus can get it or has the box. i'm going to have to pay someone to use taobao. i don't understand why i can't get someone to order it through them and then I compensate them.
     
  5. stprime

    stprime THE コンボイ that the Matrix refused

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    Finally. This box is huge.
     

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  6. foxracing

    foxracing Well-Known Member

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    Caped and winged (from junker BMB OS Swoop) IMG_20191010_003304.jpg
     
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  7. FireFury190

    FireFury190 Well-Known Member

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    So I got the TDW upgrade for Volcanicus last night and after one evening I'm already getting stress marks on Slug's peg hole when I plug one of the feet in. It's not even that tight of a fit to get in but I'm worried about it breaking. Especially since there's already a small crack.

    I've already done 3 rounds of sanding down the plastic on the peg bit by bit and I'm not sure if it's good enough. I don't want to do too much to the point where it's very loose on the peg, but I want to it to be tight enough so that it can hold in place. Any suggestions? Will it actually break? How well have any of yours been holding up? Should I use Sludge as the leg instead?
     

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    Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
  8. cr3d1t

    cr3d1t Well-Known Member

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    I cracked both on Slug and Sludge so I'd be careful.
     
  9. FireFury190

    FireFury190 Well-Known Member

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    I don't know. Saying to just be careful doesn't really give me much to work with. I'm just curious of how much more I need so sand off the peg. As the stress marks happened before I sanded the pegs. As many video reviewers who talked about the TDW kit didn't really talk about the chance of breaking. So I don't know if it'll continue to crack after I've already sand the pegs down 3 times. Now a 4th since writing this. Even though it pegs in just fine nice and smoothly I don't know if leaving it in there for so long despite the smooth connection will cause the piece to continue to crack.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
  10. TheRebirth

    TheRebirth Well-Known Member

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    Sorry about the crack. FYI, you should ALWAYS sand down third party pegs or this will happen. Doesn't matter who they're from, it's a very common problem. Test fit, preferably with something with thicker walls like CW Drag Strip and sand down until they don't take much force to get in but are still snug. Force will always break thinner ports.
     
  11. FireFury190

    FireFury190 Well-Known Member

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    Well Slug didn't actually take too much force to peg in. It was a tight secure fit at the time as I was swiveling the peg side to side to get it further in. Snarl was the one who needed more force. But his peg is much thicker compared to Slug's. Right now since I've sanded both pegs down and they're are a nice safe fit, but I'm still worried if cracking will continue despite the sand down.

    I've also been told on some people on Discord that plastic cement, clear coat polish, and floor polish could help fill in the small crack I've got. Is this true? And could this help prevent the crack from further expanding?
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
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  12. TheRebirth

    TheRebirth Well-Known Member

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    Rippersnapper was the only 5mm port I broke and I wasn't able to fix him so I ended up getting a new one. Clear coat or floor polish won't do anything but make a mess. Maybe a small amount of liquid super glue could fill in the crack and hold the port together. Plastic cement or epoxy may help too. You could fill in the hollow space between the outside of the 5mm port and the rest of the limb with cement or epoxy to keep the port from pushing out further.

    Rippersnapper was a hard one. I tried super glue by itself and that didn't hold. Also there's no area around the port to reinforce, so I ended up replacing him.
     
  13. FireFury190

    FireFury190 Well-Known Member

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    Do you have any brands you'd recommend. All I can think of for the liquid super glue and clear epoxy is Loctite. And I don't know what to use for plastic cement.

    Here's how the peg hole looks right now. The crack only becomes more visible and spreads when the foot is pegged in. So I don't know if this seems I should continue to sand down the pegs until the crack no longer expands when plugged in. Cause I don't wanna end up making the foot peg too loose a connection. Much like how the normal combiner feet feel. And that was before the stress.

    stress5.jpg stress6.jpg
     
  14. Warpshard

    Warpshard Well-Known Member

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    Personally, I would keep sanding down the peg rather than risk breaking the port. It's easier to build a peg back up with some superglue than it is to un-break a port, at least in my experience. Plus, these pegs seem to be pretty dang big, so sanding them down more can't hurt (and again, building them back up is decently easy, just taking time)
     
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  15. TheRebirth

    TheRebirth Well-Known Member

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    That's a tough one - that port looks exactly like Rippersnapper's. Your break isn't as bad as mine, and you may be able to save it. I'd still want to coat the outside of the port in something - maybe Locktite, JB Weld, or Gorilla Epoxy. Enough to reinforce the outside of the crack, but not so much that legs can't combine together. You definitely want to sand the pegs down and test fit in a fist or another 5mm port somewhere - maybe the one on Slag's back. Whatever you do, be careful, especially if you're using the limb as a leg. The weight of a combiner puts a relatively large amount of stress on the sides of the port, which is already weakened by the crack. I'd hate for it to give out, especially if it's on a shelf or something.

    Worst case, you may be looking at replacement. If you can't find originals, there's a KO on Aliexpress that's the same size, and probably compatible. I don't have the set, so I can't say for sure but it's likely you can pop the legs off at the ball joint and use the KO legs with the original upper torso if you want to keep as much original as possible. If you go that route, be sure to get the 1:1 KO. There's also and oversized KO that's a few inches bigger. The combiner ports are still compatible so you could get the limbs if you want all voyager Dinobots or 4 voyagers plus leader Grimlock but you need the 1:1 if you want to blend with your originals.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2020
  16. Ozymandias13

    Ozymandias13 Well-Known Member

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    THIS. It's always going to be easier to tighten what's loose than to rebuild what's shattered.
     
  17. FireFury190

    FireFury190 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I think I'll do that. I tried fitting the foot into the peg hole on Slug's back and I was like "There is no way in hell this is gonna fit without something breaking." Honestly I'm starting to think the weak peg holes on Slug and Sludge had a lot more space than the other holes. As before I got the kit the regular Volcanicus combiner feet were very loose in those peg holes while snug in others.

    True. If it gets too loose I always got some floor polish to thicken the peg.
     
  18. Dylan79

    Dylan79 New Member

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    Quick question.
    Do i have to have the original combiner parts if i were to get this upgrade kit to form Volcanicus?
    If i get a set of potp dinobots that doesn't have any of it's original combiner parts left, will i be able to still form Volcanicus if i were to just purchase the Dream Wave kit?
    Cheers
     
  19. Toker

    Toker Well-Known Member

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    You should be able to. The kit includes hands and feet.
     
  20. jaws

    jaws Well-Known Member

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    Hasbro hands and feet are not required with the aftermarket upgrades.
     

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