Discussion in 'Transformers Feedback & Reviews' started by ChErikS, Jun 6, 2017.
Got mine about a month ago and both legs were super tight. After a few spins the right leg started to click and turn OK, the left leg became even stiffer and would not move at all.
Last weekend I finally had a chance to check the left leg. And while I was at, I disassembled the working one as well. Guess what? I swapped the springs around -from the frozen left leg to the OK right leg- and the problem remained the same as before - right leg OK, left leg frozen. It seemed like the spring is not the problem, I tried to compare the parts used in the leg assembly if there were any defects or differences but could not find anything.
In the end, I took the spring transplanted from originally right leg and, not wanting to cut it, squeezed it for about 10 minutes under our heavy kitchen table leg. Put the spring back, assembled the leg and even then it was super stiff... grrr. Annoyed I forced it a bit to turn, there was a hard click... and then the leg started to click and turn OK just like the other one. So both legs on my figure are now working.
My Trypticon has a problem where the chest door is slightly twisted and therefore doesn't stay closed. Hasbro is shipping me a replacement but they asked for the vendor and plastic codes stamped into the figure somewhere. The only help they could provide was that it is somewhere inconspicuous.
Does anyone know where the numbers are stamped on this monster figure?
Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Interesting - I had a pretty severe version of that and, when I reached out to Hasbro, they said I'd have to send the whole figure back and that they couldn't guarantee I'd get Trypticon as a replacement because he was on backorder.
Anyway, I believe the codes you're looking for are beneath the hip joint in Dino mode (where the hips are in the "down" position). Swivel the hips up and you'll se codes on the gray plastic underneath. On mine, under the right hip is the date/production code (mirrored on the box where it's pressed in next to the copyright information); under the left hip is a code string of V-2976B (also mirrored on the box in the copyright section), the copyright and production info (Hasbro, Tomy, Vietnam where it was manufactured), and a code in black ink. The black ink code is the only piece of information I haven't been able to find somewhere on the box.
I hope that helps!
That's very helpful. Thank you!
Also Thanks for mentioning the possible back order issue. After I read the email from Hasbro closely it does say that it could be replaced with a product of equal value.
Just got mine in today and checked the hips first thing. Both of my hips were tight, one immobile. I ended up polishing inside the cross on the ratchet piece and bending/working the spring until it was about 1/8in shorter than stock. Seems to have done the trick. My stamped # was 70941 in case that's helpful.
Show of hands: Who wants a Third-Party company to make for Trypticon the weapons from the MasterMade SD Trypticon?
^^^ I concur, more weapons with 5mm pegs to weaponize him
Guys, try the Toy Dojo trick before doing any big mods of the hip springs. They hit pay dirt on the assumption that the springs hadn't been properly broken in. My Tryp is in great shape now; no cutting, no manipulating. Just a little heel-toe with the spring under my foot for 10 minutes.
I just got mine in yesterday afternoon and both my legs where tight but the left was a tighter. I haven't done anything to him yet but he's sitting on my computer desk. My front door where full-tilt is at is a bit loose but nothing else but then again mine's not going to be moving that much since I don't have a lot of room. I will have to repack him back in my box soon like my fort max g1 and titan return as well metroplex too.
I just heard back from Hasbro today. If you want to return your Trypticon for a replacement there is currently ample stock. Also they said if the figure is on back order then they will wait until it's back in stock to ship the replacement rather than an item of equal value if requested.
Great to know. But you should be prepared for the possibility that the problem will be present in your replacement. It might be worth rolling the dice, but I haven't heard a lot of reports of the door being flush. A few "it's not that bad", but even my replacement is a little wonky. Hoping to try the hairdryer trick at some point, but not sure how to do it.
I picked one up yesterday and both hips were stuck pretty good. The ToyDojo trick worked great for me. Worth noting that my ratchet slid up and down the crosspiece just fine, so my only problem was the spring tension.
So I just picked one of these up and looked through the comments and am still a little unclear .. how is the tail supposed to work? I get a lot of resistance and one loud click with a metallic sound -- no further ratcheting or resistance. Does that indicate that something is screwed up in the tail or is that normal? If the former, is there a good walkthrough on how to fix it? Thanks!
I feel like I'm becoming mayor of this thread. Is there a badge for that?
Here's the deal with the tail - It's supposed to lock into the two positions (up and down), but (at least in my case), the tail would loudly lock into the up position, but then would be hard to move back into the down position without a loud scary pop, but not so in the opposite direction.
People have said that the joint has broken to the point where it no longer locks into either position and, while I'm not positive that's the case in the same way I was with the hip joints, I do think that it's possible. When I took my tail apart, I could already see some stress marks on the cross section of the part that connects to the "washer" that connects to the gear (It's not actually a washer, but it's kind of a washer with gear teeth on it so that's the name I'm going with).
I performed the fix, which requires gluing the "washer" to the post so that it no longer has freedom to move, become disconnected, or strip the cross post it fits on. I'm genuinely not sure what engineering advantage having the parts separate might serve. It seems pointless. I'm not an engineer, though. What I will say is that once I glued the "washer" to the post, the tail seems to softly lock into each position and moves between them smoothly. But I don't know why the parts were separate to begin with, so I'm not convinced it's the right move. I'm happy with how my figure works now, though.
Aside from that chest door.
Thanks for the info. Is there a guide to the fix or any pictures? I've located a couple of screws on the tail, but taking them out didn't seem to really accomplish anything in terms of separating the pieces of the tail.
I haven't seen one and a lot of people have asked for one. Maybe I'll put something together tonight to post.
Could somebody please tell me what is the distance between the toes and the point of the tail when he is in an upright position? I want to be sure he fits on my shelves.
Just got mine yesterday a beast, and a gem. Legs are not scary at all! Hips ratchet smooth and yet hold well. Tail locks in both positions with a fun "chunk" but nothing unexpected or scary. Have moved both tail and legs multiple times and transformed back from each mode several times as well. The chest door is slightly warped, but if I tab in the warped corner first, everything is fine. My only gripe is Necro's head... It fits very tightly into full tilt's neck socket. I figure I won't mess with this too much anyway, and it's not like there aren't a few other Titan master figures with the same issues. All in all I'm pleased. Stickers are next and I can't wait.
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