To me, superglue seems like a very bad idea. I know everyone swears by it and I'm sure it works great... just not for me. I fear it would damage it if I don't do it right. I use a plain clear nail polish instead; I figure that it's safer and removable if needed. I picked a Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear and it's been working fine for me.

Usually, I put it on the socket. The number of coats depends on how loose the joint is and you need to wait until it's dry before those coats. Sometimes, I apply a coat to both sides rather than all in the socket. Whatever gets the job done. =) Just wait until it's fully dry (10 mins or so) and pop it back together. If it's still too loose, take it apart and add another coat.

 

I used to use Loctite Superglue, but then i switched over to Zap A Gap, and it works wonders for me. However, either will do fine.

Be warned, though, Loctite has a habit of cracking (and soon flaking) any paint applied before it. So the superglue seal method should not be attempted with this. I've had no such problems with Zap A Gap, though.

In Perth, apparently, since i have it.  

Otherwise, i assume a local hobby shop might carry it.

For me, it's the same as ball joints, except that instead of superglue, i put on a coat of clear varnish. When that dries, it tightens a lot.

Just be careful you don't freeze up the whole joint.

 

instant krazy glue is my bestfriend lol.. but you have to rotate the joints really right wen u apply it until the glue drys of course.... i've heard you can use "future" to tighten joints.. but i never tried it

 

I use the Mexican Pega Loca which they due sell in USA, if I remember correctly in the 99 cents store they carried it. Or go to any store that sells Mexican stuff. It is in my opinion the strongest and best suited for the job.

 

I simply don't use super glue. I use Tamiya Liquid Cement.

Brush a coat on either the ball or socket and let it dry for a couple hours or overnight if you want to be sure.

Just the same, this can be used for pegs that don't hold so well or if you're like me and often dremel holes just slightly too large.

 

I use future polish myself and leave it overnight.

 

Not sure how many different figures this will apply to, but here's a strategy I used:

My Sideswipe's elbow just flapped back and forth. I unscrewed the shoulder and took out the lower part of the arm with the two sides of the pin sticking out. I then wrapped a small piece of toilet paper on each side and screwed it all back together. It's not the most aesthetcially pleasing choice but it worked wonders. I've also used toilet paper to tighten hole/peg parts, like TFTM Leader Prime and Megs' shoulder connections, and ROTF Long Haul's waist.

 

So do you actually pop the pin out? Thanks, by the way.

 

Just drop some superglue in the joint (liquid works best, but the gel kind will also work), let it sit for a second or two so it starts to dry, then continually move it until the glue is dry.

 

Thanks. Do you drop superglue on the pin ends (at the side of the joint) or in between the two connected pieces (the ridge between both of them)?

 

This.

I've also used it on my super-loose Cybertron Sideways shoulder joint, and now it's tighter than when I got it. No disassembly required.  

 

I didn't completely- it's glued/attached to Sideswipe's lower arm and fits in the holes on the side pieces of the upper arm. Not all pins are that easy to access, maybe telling us what figures you want to tighten would help?

 

Try coating it lightly with super glue and letting it dry. It should fit a little bit tighter.

- Alty

 

Hey Dave, if those ball joints are still too large (had to dance around that, but I so wanted teh funny too--lol), then you can take some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand around the ball a little at a time and it should help it snap right back in (hopefully tight, like you'd want).

I've used super glue very lightly applied over the ball joints, then I'd snap them back on and continually move them around in all motions to help it spread. After a while, it will harden up and tighten up the joint. I will say that I've heard Future is safer, since it doesn't damage any plastic or melt anything. I also know that there are some that use clear nail polish to tighten loose joints. I can't really comment on that though, since I've never tried it.

First, I'd try tightening it a bit with a screwdriver. If you've done that and it still isn't tight enough, you could try brush a thin layer of Future onto the shoulder joint (you'd need to take it apart to get to it). Allow that to dry for a day or so and screw it all back together and test it. It should be a bit tighter, but if it's still not tight enough, repeat. Before doing so, check the tutorials here on Future and read up on it.

 

nail polish.detach the limbs and take some nail polish and apply to the ball joint,let dry,and reattach the limbs

 

Superglue works!

I have had great success with the superglue method, but my technique is a little different...

Instead of applying the glue onto the ball itself, i apply it to the inside of the socket, then spread it around with a toothpick, let it dry for a good ten minutes (way longer that is really necessary), and reassemble. I did this on my Alternity Megatron's ankles because he would not stay standing, and also on Alternity Primes' hands. Works like a charm!

 

Also try enamel paints. They are very strong, but be sure to sand the ball with some 150 grit paper a bit first so that the paint can adhere well. Let harden for a few days, and you should be able to pop the joint back together nice n tight.

 

How about tightening up pin connections? I have a few figures where minor things like Thrust's hand or Sideswipe's left arm are looser than should be and since it's a pin joint I have idea what to do.

 

Just as an add Don't forget filler stuff works. Stuff like epoxy putty can be used to fill loose drill holes then they can be redrilled (though I'd recommend painting and proper cure time). Bondo seems pretty strong.

Also...righty tighty, lefty loosey