Things YouTuber Tutorials didn’t tell you

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by quickshift, Mar 11, 2019.

  1. quickshift

    quickshift Combiner Junkie

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    Ever watch a couple videos and say, “ Piece of Cake”?

    Working on a custom and I chose to start with a black base. Knowing paint rubs and combiners do lots of rubbing, I decided to try my hand at dyeing the figure. Watched a couple of videos and decided to give it a shot. It was working really good...until I noticed some of the parts were getting misshapen. Yeah....guess I had the water to hot?

    Oh well....you don’t learn if you don’t try.

    8348FC6B-F215-4494-BFA6-CFFCE7730275.jpeg 952A734C-A3B8-49C7-A780-7AEDC1FBE685.jpeg E250BA9E-F382-4385-84A9-1EC2589C3D05.jpeg
     
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  2. Applejacktimus

    Applejacktimus Likes Alpha Bravo

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    What dye did you use? All the tutorials recommend RITdye but I've heard that they recently changed their formula so it only works on fabrics and nylon plastic. I've been wanting to try dying for a while and I've got some junk that I could test in different water temperatures.
     
  3. gibdozer

    gibdozer Love Gun

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    Yeah dyeing is alot harder than it looks. You always want to dye a test piece before you throw the real one in, and even then because of differences in the plastics this can happen. I've successfully dyed a figure tried to repeat the process exactly and destroyed one.

    It's been so hit and miss for me that I finally swore it off. I once destroyed 3 battle in space Hotrods in a row with Rit. I just paint them now it's faster, cleaner, and way safer!
     
  4. gericault

    gericault Well-Known Member

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    I've tried dyeing a couple of dozen times and gave up on it a few years ago. I found it to be toxic, tricky, and the results aren't always reliable. Frankly, now I just clean, lightly sand, undercoat and spraypaint. I honestly find the results much better.
     
  5. quickshift

    quickshift Combiner Junkie

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    I used the Rit Synthetic. On this Combiner wars hound, the dye worked much better on some pieces than others. The combiner port took the dye within minutes. So did the small ball joints for his shoulders and part his ankles. The rest of the body parts were starting to take the dye darker, after about 25 minutes, but once i saw the damage I aborted.

    Small little nugget. When I was cleaning the paint off him, his actual feet are black plastic painted green. I was like really Hasbro? Plus, his shoulder cannon is black plastic painted silver, while swindle's is grey painted black.

    I'm thinking if i can find a large enough strainer to hold the parts suspended in the pot this might not happen again. The parts weren't floating much and spent most of their time on the bottom of the pot where it was hottest. I also might have had better luck if I had stirred the pot continuously and not let it sit. But who can stand there stirring for 30 minutes.

    I did have a couple headmaster pieces in there that took the dye without issue, look great did not get damaged.
     
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  6. SonOfNemesis

    SonOfNemesis Well-Known Member

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    It's a long shot as I'm not familiar with dyeing parts but whenever I've received figures in the mail that have come bent or out of shape, I just heat them up with a blow dryer on high heat to get them soft. Then I reshape with my fingers and submerge in cold water while holding the shape I want. That works for me 100% of the time. Maybe give it a shot and see what happens for you?
     
  7. quickshift

    quickshift Combiner Junkie

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    lol, I appreciate the tip, however a hairdryer isnt going to correct what happened here. Best case scenario, I just got a jump start on a bashed up hound carcass.
     
  8. durroth

    durroth Maximal

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    Probably a sprue limitation. they can only fit so many parts on one.
     
  9. DrOblivian

    DrOblivian Mad Doctor jAmS

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    attempt to put it back together the best you can and turn it into like a terrorcon zombie or something. dont let it go to waste.
     
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  10. rtm

    rtm Well-Known Member

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    I haven’t tried dye and most likley will not. Something about it does do it for me. My method is undercoating with a black or gray then airbrushing with Tamiya or Minitaire paint. Both take little time to dry and adhere extremly well. Haven't had any issues with paint rubbing off during transformation or combining. Imo, try staying away from those hit or miss methods and stick to what’s proven.
     
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  11. TechnoDemon

    TechnoDemon Cyber Fiend

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    First, never use direct heat on the dye if you can avoid it. Double-boil, like when making chocolate or melting wax. Put an empty (clean) can of an appropriate size inside the pot, fill the can with the dye, and fill the pot with water - this allows better control of the heat for the dye. Using a thermal dyeing unit (or any thermal heating unit, like the hot trays from a restaurant) is preferable, but not many people want to spend that much money on a dye setup.

    Second, if you're dyeing huge pieces (say, Trypticon body panels) and absolutely *must* use direct heat on a large pot of dye, never heat the part for more than five minutes at a time, and watch it carefully for deformation while you do. This still holds true for smaller pieces - try to keep the material in the dye for only a few minutes, allowing it to cool for a minute after every immersion. Cooling with water is not recommended, but you can rinse off excess dye mixture to prevent uneven streaks by running hot water over it before setting it down to cool. Also note, larger pieces will not deform faster than smaller ones, but it will be much more obvious when they do.

    Source: I used to be the Lead Lab Technician at a major eyeglass\sunglass chain, so I have extensive experience in dyeing plastic - though it was over a decade ago, the lessons still stand.
     
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  12. quickshift

    quickshift Combiner Junkie

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    I tried, the two halves of the torso are so misshapen I cant get anything to mate to even get one point to attach together. Im not trashing it, the parts will get used somewhere. Just not the project i wanted. Maybe its time to do a diorama of Shockwave's lab? lol
     
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  13. reluttr

    reluttr Well-Known Member

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    Yeah the regular RITT stuff doesnt work anymore. Some people have have success with the liquid RITT stuff formulated for polyester fabric.

    But a lot of people recommend the "iDye Poly" brand of dyes.
     
  14. Seeaich

    Seeaich Inaction Master

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    I've gotten into using Rit Dyemore for customising figures but I do not use them on a stove top, I use an old, retired from drinks duty electric kettle to bring the dye up to just below boiling (manually clicking it off beforehand) and pour it into microwave & dishwasher safe sealed tupperware-style containers. It allows for an even temperature and eliminates stuff sitting on a hot pan surface, though it can take multiple applications to get the shade I'm after, I'll take that over too much melting. There's still some minor tolerance shifts on occasion but nothing like you've unfortunately suffered here.
     
  15. ultraman zoffy

    ultraman zoffy Well-Known Member

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    VHT Vinyl Dye is the way to go, forget all that old school boiling cauldron stuff... lol. Spray VHT on, absorbs into the plastic (because it's a dye), and you won't melt your stuff.

    VHT Vinyl Dye™ -- Specialty Products
     
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  16. Crim

    Crim Well-Known Member

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    THANK YOU!!! I use to use this stuff for PC cases back in the day but could never remember the brand when I started doing messing around with custom TFs. :) 
     
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  17. Superquad7

    Superquad7 OCP Police Crime Prevention Unit 001 Super Mod

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    This is more of a topical thread, and, as such, belongs in Creative General Discussion.
     
  18. diablogunner

    diablogunner Defender of the All-Spark

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    Looks like something from UNICRON's melting pit...that sucks. Just another reason why if I cannot customize it with a sharpie, it ain't gonna happen! All of mine would come out looking like the Franken-Bot from G1