Have HG and no-Grade Gundams gotten that simplified in recent years? I feel like back when I was building in the 90s (when there was basically just no-Grade, HG, and MG) most of my gunpla had separate articulated skirts. And only the oldest and most primitive kits had the skirts fused with the codpiece. That said, when poly-caps were used to attach the skirt plates, they sure did fall off more often. To Waffel... awesome fix! Love it. zmog
Articulated skirts are still the norm coming out of the 90s, but the standing question here is the topic of joined front skirts in modern smaller scale kits, and the widespread knowledge in the mecha modeling community to separate them. Getting a bit off topic, originally it was a solid bar connecting, then ridges in the middle to keep them in the codpiece when separated, and now a design that can be converted into ball-socket joints by the modeler if they wish. As previously stated, it's a matter of easier assembly; they've added accomodations for experienced builders in mind ever since. Spoiler: Various 1/144 waist builds from over the years (from dalong.net) 1995 No-Grade Wing 2001 HG RX-78-2 2015 HG RX-78-2 "Revive" 2018 HG Leo 2020 HG RX-78-02 "The Origin" 2022 HG Shen-Long I'd prefer to end it here, lest the thread get derailed.
A word of warning for anyone planning to do this mod: I used an automatic center punch to remove the pin holding the skirt on, but the knurled end of the pin had a strong grip on the darker grey waist plastic, and snapped the plastic instead of coming loose. I strongly recommend bracing the side of the waist on a piece of wood or similar to reduce the chance of snapping the dark grey plastic during pin extraction. Fortunately there are multiple connection points between the dark grey plastic and skirt, so after a little plastic glue I'm not too worried about the plastic breaking again. Edit: photo for clarity.
I'd sooner use a soldering iron to heat up the plastic to help it slide out easier than just a pin punch alone.
Nononono... that would be a very bad idea. Process had it right in that the side needs support to pinch the pin. I use balsa wood or a nylon pipe as a support for nearly all pin punching. It allows support as well as a place for thr pin to go when it exits the port.
Very good advise. Occasionally I use a round tinker toy piece I found at Goodwill years ago, but any thick piece of wood with a hole in the center works. I also have a large brick of modelling clay that I use most of the time. I use it as is with the original plastic wrapper still on. Provides a good cushion and is great for getting pins out when the surrounding parts are uneven making them awkward to place on a flat surface. I imagine I'm going to eventually have to replace the wrapper, probably with a few layers of cling wrap.
@waffel and @process : thank you for your contributions to this thread! Studio Series 86 Ironhide (SS86-17) - Hip Skirt Modification
Automatic center punch tool.... if you have a watch repair kit around those include a pin removal tool, too. Amazon.com : automatic punch center tool
