stil working on removing battle damage but his tap deck mode is reminiscent of an iPod deck. I can get behind this. However I’m gonna have to wait for reprolabels for the chest. The “cracks” are between two pieces of plastic. Still major parts are the removal of the backpack setup. What do you all think?
I also remove the backpack nacelle units the day I bought the figure. Cleans it up nicely. The battle damage cracks aren't between two pieces of plastic. They're painted on the face of the tape deck. Other members have already removed it with fingernails and flat head screwdrivers.
Have they? I haven't seen any examples. The battle damage is the only thing stopping me from buying him.
The cracked battle damage on the chest, at least on mine, has that pattern that the spots on masterpiece Cheetor has, like they were printed on. I've worked on one little corner with some rubbing alcohol, but it is damn hard to get it to come off. And why so much of that damage on ol Soundwave anyways? Sure is alot on him and Starscream, compared to the rest of the figures so far. I ended up painting over the damage on Starscream. Anyways, looking really good so far. And it's nice that you can use the transformation joint at Soundwaves waist as an ab crunch.
I did the exact same thing to mine, remove the backpack. Debating whether or not to remove the arm cannons and the cannons on the shoulders.
Where is everyone finding wave 2 voyagers!? I found painting over the battle damage is just as effective if not more. I think mixing tamiya flat blue and blue should do it for soundwave. Maybe a smidge of black n red... But i wouldnt know cuz theres no siege w2 in Canada yet!!
Why is everyone folding the legs up the same way for the fakedeck mode? Don't his knees work backwards? I bed you could fill in more space by turning the front of the legs inwards for the alt mode instead of outwards.
The cracks on his chest can be removed with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I'll try to get a pic later. It also takes off the symbol but I always have some reprolabel symbols around.
And the alcohol didn't fog or damage the plastic at all? I ask because rubbing alcohol is known to make clear plastic brittle.
Didn't harm it in any way. It WILL take the gold trim off if you aren't extra careful, but for most customizers that isn't even an issue. I keep gold and yellow paint around.
Anyone have any idea on how to remove the damage on his legs and arms? I literally soaked them in alcohol for 14 hours and the battle damage was the only thing to not come off. Also, I used a cotton swab and some alcohol and was able to begin removing the chest damage, but I gave up and said I'd wait for Reprolabels
My Siege Soundwave just arrived today from Amazon. All this week he's been popping up on and off for retail price on their site, and at one of those moments I managed to get one. I also removed the chest battle damage from mine using 91% isopropyl alcohol, and a total of 2 and 1/2 Q-tips. Took all of maybe 10 minutes to do. I did end up having to re-paint the "arrow" on the tape-deck part gold again, but his Decepticon symbol actually managed to remain 98% in-tact so I'm fine with it as is. I also decided to give him red eyes. I know Amazon Canada is a bit different, but here's the listing I got mine from. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5SPV3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm curious about how much surgery would be needed to make Soundwave's knees bend backwards. I suspect that it would only take a little plastic removal from under the joint. It almost looks like the bumps on his shins would line right up with his torso.
I tried for 10 minutes with 91% rubbing alcohol and barely made a dent. I'm now thinking paint thinner...
What's the actual technique you used for removing the paint? I applied the alcohol and let it sit for a minute, and then went at it with qtips, but after 10 minutes I only had removed a small portion of the paint.
