Heavy/Scratch: Siege Shockwave Hearts of Steel conversion kit

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by waffel, Mar 3, 2020.

  1. makoaspire

    makoaspire & WTF-Ever...

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    awesome work!
     
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  2. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    What a difference the right slicing software makes! I was initially slicing with the Cura variant that came with the printer out of simplicity and for it's built in wifi features (didn't want to walk across the room and grab the flash drive and take it back for every print), but found that my supports were a mess. I went ahead and brushed off my copy of Simplify 3d and their presets for my printer nearly eliminated my stringing probably in part to their lower temperature presets and allowed for a much greater control over the supports along with finer detail. I can't believe I stopped using it.
     
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  3. Lion

    Lion Will bite you!

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    Hearts of Steel is one of my favorite stories. This is amazing.
     
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  4. Botnanza

    Botnanza One of those nerds with the 3D printer

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    I myself cut off some filament to use as pins
     
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  5. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    Is there a piece to fill in this gap? I see the flap for the other side and I see the cut out where a flap could be pinned in
     

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  6. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    Originally there was, however because of the shape the cutout has to be the flap was too wide to for past the pointed bit of the backpack. Plus once you get the hull stuck on and the windows stuck on its much much less visible so I decided to just forget about the piece, however I thought I had removed that hole to peg it in.

    If you like I can get you the old flap file or the revised top deck file without the hole, sorry for the confusion
     
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  7. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    You're right, It's a little more covered with the windows. I'll wait to get it all printed out and fitted before I even consider asking for any tweaked parts. I'm probably another day or two out from getting this completed and then I need to reassess my color choices.

    The galaxy blue suggested in the readme was sold out. Ended up buying Paramount3D Decepticon Purple but the shade is way off. Also printed the light gray parts in silver which looked fantastic till I got to the dark grey parts and found them to be a little too close in color. The silver in particular seems to print darker on thinner parts, causing some further inconsistency.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 13, 2020
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  8. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    Alright sweet, was worried I made a critical oversight. If there are any other bits that need fixing, or in the end you do want me to get you that piece I can re-design it and test it. This is my first time selling designs, so I am absolutely open to providing whatever support is needed

    Sorry to hear colours are a problem, I've had constant problems with getting colours right. That galaxy blue was the 4th purple I've tried, and that dark grey was something like the 5th different shade I've use in the last 2 years of printing. I can get you the details on the grey filaments if you want them too. I have had the colour variation problem before, for some reason the 3rd purple I bought would print solid colour on thin bits but fade and be different colours on different layers for big bits. I cant be sure, but I think it's just a filament issue.

    On the plus side, the parts all seem to be printing pretty cleanly, and I cant tell you how cool I find it seeing someone actually producing their own version of my design
     
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  9. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    Okay I have this thing nearly assembled. First of all I'd like to say this is an amazing kit and a true work of art. I cannot wait print another one once I get the colors right. I do have a few suggestions mostly having to do with helping with assembly, and a small comment about the wheels which I'm currently printing.

    First issue I addressed before. The windows do a fair enough job hiding the missing panel, but I would go ahead and either remove that notch for it to be installed, (just so no one installs the opposite panel on the wrong side and has to go through the trouble of taking the pin out) or try to redesign it to somewhat fill that gap without interfering with the transformation.

    Second small issue is when assembling the right arm and gluing it together, would it be possible to get some pegs and holes sculpted on to the sides that meet each other just to help avoid alignment issues? The front of my boat is just a little off and it's because the glue dried before I could really get it together just right. The only way to really get a feel for if it's in the right spot is to stick your finger in there and feel how flush the two panels joining are.

    Next, the 5mm pegs that actually plug into the toy feel quite loose. It's an easy remedy with a layer or two of super glue and it could just be a tolerances issue between printers. I'm running a 0.4mm nozzle if that makes any difference.

    And last, the print orientation I've been forced to print the wheels in seems not very optimal. I tried printing them on their side at .1mm height and the sculpting details are fine enough that my slicer picks them up and doesn't print most of the wheel on the first layer (just one arch), but they are also so slight that I can't generate any supports underneath. I can print them up right but that requires a lot of supports and makes the layer lines more likely to allow individual spokes on those wheels to break off. If you could make the side facing the boat completely flat, it would really help with creating a more durable part that can be printed on its side.

    Completely unrelated to the design, I think the inconsistency in my colors may be related to print orientation. The center portions of the boat and the left forearm panel were printed with the layer lines going across horizontally and turned out darker. Whereas everything else was printed in an orientation that would allow the lair lines to be stacking vertically, and those parts appear lighter.
     

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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
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  10. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    Really appreciate the detailed feedback. I have tweaked the files as they exist now. I have redesigned that transformation panel and am waiting for it to print to test it before I roll out the new files to people, I figure it was the best call as people who have already printed it wouldn't need to modify existing printed parts.

    As for setting the arm, that is absolutely an issue I ran into while assembling. I wanted the joining point to be as seamless as possible and given every surface has detail in all directions I felt this method was the best for me for making a clean-finished project. However, that was my thinking for how to build it myself, I was happy judging by eye when I was the only one who had to worry about it and I think you're right some form of tabbing so its not just down to judgement by eye may be in order. This is my first time selling files and clearly I need to be more aware of ease of assembly in future. I will revise the files and upload modified files.

    Finally, in term of pegging onto the arms, the pegs at the size they are fit snugly when I printed them. That just comes down to individual results may vary based on setting and filaments. As for the wheels, thanks for letting me know, I didn't have any issues when printing mine but Ill make a modified version of those too with one perfectly flat side to go facing in. I will make a big file update and announce as much once the revised files are all up.

    That filament colour issue is strange, kinda at a loss with what to recommend there. Overall though your boat mode is looking pretty damn solid, and as I said above just seeing someone else largely print it successfully is really gratifying on a personal level. If there are any more thoughts you have do let me know
     
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  11. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for taking my suggestions into consideration. I really appreciate the work that you put into this. Here's a completed shot of my first print out.
    20200415_114741.jpg

    In the meantime, I'm going to test my theory about print orientation and color and get back to you on that.

    QUICK UPDATE: it appears that the print orientation does indeed seem to have an effect on the color. I reprinted the Light Grey Remaining Hull parts again but with the layer lines going the other way . As you can see, the new part (on the left) now matches the rest of the light grey parts.
    20200415_225802.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2020
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  12. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    Hey Waffel, out of curiosity, what percentage infill are you using?
     
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  13. a_nginu

    a_nginu Maximal Builder

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    Great job!!
     
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  14. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    One more small suggestion. Maybe a small lip or tab sculpted into the bowside flaps to hold up the bow top flap up in boat mode. Mine is beginning to loosen and sag after repeated fiddling. 20200421_102913.jpg
     
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  15. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so while Waffel is working on design tweaks, I'd like to reach out to anyone else working on this project here in the US. I'm still struggling to find an appropriate shade of purple PLA. The technology outlet galaxy blue PLA suggested is a co.uk site and the shipping cost is double the cost of the filament. Chroma Strand seems to have a decent match Purple in ABS (if I can find it in stock) but I'd prefer to do this in PLA for ease of printing. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good dark Shockwave purple in the $20-$50 range?
     
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  16. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    Hey, sorry for the radio silence there, my exams begin tomorrow so I've been focused on those this week, with only bits of CAD in the evenings and I'll have the modified files up and available tomorrow afternoon/evening.

    Really cool seeing a fully printed version by someone else, I use 15% infill and vary the number of walls for strength. Generally for thin components I make sure there are enough walls that it's essentially 100%. On average I use 3 walls, 3 base layers and 3 top layer

    As for purple, I would be happy to let you know the other ones I've used, though they don't fit nearly as well as that galaxy blue. I've asked a couple of mates who are into their printing to see if they have any filament suggestions and I'll get back to you
     
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  17. Nightstrike

    Nightstrike Closeted. Also a half-Ghoul.

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    I'm kinda' interested to see what other plans you have...
     
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  18. SlickPrime

    SlickPrime Well-Known Member

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    Hey, didn't want to bother while you were dealing with exams so I waited till the end of the week, but where are the modified files uploaded? I went back to Etsy and re-downloaded the first set and didn't see any changes, and I didn't see a new 4th compressed folder.
     
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  19. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    Hey, I'm really sorry for the additional delays, somehow I always manage to underestimate the time commitment needed to get through all the necessary content. They should be up in a couple of hours. I was very eager to offer as much support to people as possible, and given that I think I'm gonna sit on my other finished file sets until after my exams when I can offer more active support
     
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  20. waffel

    waffel Well-Known Member

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    The update is now out. The original folders have been updated, but a final update parts folder has been added to make it easier for existing buyers to find the tweaked parts. Sorry for the delay on that, it stems more from distraction than difficulty and it wont happen in future
     
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