Discussion in 'Requests' started by chrisr291, Jul 18, 2010.
lol, you made a bigger head! Nice
dont make them shorter can be reinforced in the cast with a needle pin
but try to order the next batch in transperant material , it shows the details better .
and maybe if u can make them tad deeper they will b for sure more visable
i'm a newbie to this 3d printing thing
but the heads that cashanove printed came transperent and the material is almost smooth
i think that he is the most experienced 3d printer user here , he is your man to consult with
The head looks awesome Mako! Have you thought about bulking the horns, instead of shortening them?
Don't forget me. I've been using Shapeways for close to a year. I'm the only one who here who has taken Shapeways printed objects and actually got them to a good enough stage to make castings.
As far as Transparent material, I've only used it for mockup transparent parts. I'm not sure how good the details show up. Thats why they have the White Detail material, as its suppose to get the most detail printed for your model. For my Skyfall upgrade, the parts that were used to make the molds were printed in White Detail. I just had to spend hours, and hours perfecting the visible surfaces. The final casted parts are smooth like the actual toy it goes on. You just have to invest your time in it. Or, go with a higher end printing service. But from my experience, from using ZoomRP, their highest quality print, has the same quality as the White Detail from Shapeways, and costs a lot more.
What exactly did you do to get the parts moldable and smooth, Venksta? I may have to order a new print of my MasterShooter MegaGun and do a much smaller production using Allumilite. The money I was gonna use to have them mass produced is in limbo. I used white strong and flexible and it was a bit too rough to mold. My past experiences with Allumilite is that it catches EVERY detail. Including the roughness of the print. I can't imagine a file small enough to sand down anything on something this small without ruining it.
So, Venksta, seeing as I'm not able to recast stuff and fixing the surface liek you do, what's your advice on smoothing out a Shapways casted head? I received a replacement Botcon Pyro head and it's just like Marcraptrons, looks rough. Also, the balljoint socket is way too big, but I'll likely fix that on my own.
Macraptron, if you're trying to refine the first prototype for casting, have you tried ordering the head from someone that has an Objet Printer? I've printed out some parts for a model for a class, and the detail is VERY, VERY, VERY FINE (so you can capture those details that got lost in the printout that you have). And Objet printouts don't need too much sanding (in comparison to what you have there).
If you do decide to go with Objet, I'd take frenzy_rumble's advice about shortening the horns. Or Venksta's advice about bulking them up.
Here's an engadget post about the Objet machine's printouts.
Objet 3D printing put to the test in Iron Man 2 (video) -- Engadget
that's..... pretty awesome. I want one, but will probably never own one. The printer, not the custom head, I want one of those too, and I'll be buying one from either fr or macrapatron. Maybe even both.
Its simple. And Makoto should find this very useful. Just primer, and sand (or wet sand) with a 600 grit or higher sand paper. And then repeat the cycle until your satisfied with the surface for the part. I think after 3 days, you can get something acceptable. For Skyfall's gun, I think I spent like 15 hours sanding it total. Some areas are impossible to sand. Like the inside of the helmet pieces for Skyfall. But since you can't see it, once installed, there is not point to do much sanding on them.
Actually, the White Detail material is printed with Objet printers. But Shapeways prints them with the "speed" setting, instead of the detail setting. Probably the biggest issue with 3d printing, is the stair stepping effect. Its due to the way the printers make the model.
At this point, Shapeways is the best and affordable service available to us. On the WFC axe project I'm working on, we had prototype made in White Detail, from Shapeways. Then a revised version, made in Poly HD Blue, from ZoomRP. The HD Blue was suppose to be the highest quality printing available. And I didn't see any improvements between it and the prototype from Shapeways. Just the huge difference in cost.
I think the head size is just fine. My only worries are the fragility of the horns and that his Punch head looks too much like Prime. Although that could change with paint apps.
In all fairness. Punch's japanese style head is very much different color optimus.
i didnt forget u ,just that is was almost 4 am when i wrote that and my brain cells were tired .
i have some friends here in slovakia that use their university 3d printer ,and their prints are realy rough textured like its made from sand ...
the M3G5 heads that we(cashanova and me ) got from shapeways ,are made from the transperant parts, and they are awesome quality , as u said some primer and sanding some primer and more sanding will do the trick .
Hey Venksta, I checked 3 art stores and even a Shewin-Williams and couldn't find 600 sandpaper. They said I might be able to find it at an automotive store. I picked up a page of 400, in case. Will it be good enough or should I go for the 600 instead?
400 might take off too much off the actual material. Your basically wanting to sand the primer down. Which material did you get your part made in? If its White Strong Flexible, 400 should be ok. If its White Detail, then be careful. I got my 600 grit paper from a automotive supply store.
Yeah, I got two strong white flexible. I should have followed the advice of getting one of the heads in clear just for experimentation, but oh well. I do have two, so I'll sand down one of them to teach myself.
Do I need to apply primer before I start sanding though?
The idea is that you're using the primer to fill the holes, then sanding a bit to make it even, fill the holes again by primering again, then sand again, until it's smooth.
Damn. I guess I should have bought that can of Krylon Primer I was eyeing today. Does it specifically have to be primer, or can it be something else, like another paint?
Automotive shops carry very high sandpaper grit. I was able to get up to 4000 you should try there. I have been buying this to paint my engine cover.
Cool, I'll check tomorrow after work.
What about my question on primer?
You can sand it before priming. But after you sand it, you need the Primer to fill in holes and tiny gaps, like Demonss said.
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