Oversized KO MPM Ironhide

Discussion in 'Transformers 3rd Party Discussion' started by BenCherry, Jul 10, 2019.

  1. jaraxel

    jaraxel Well-Known Member

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    tbh not vastlyl too big... I'd say maybe half a head if that. IH should come to just below prime's pecs iirc and I personally still prefer this size to the official mpm4/mpm ih scale

    (though official prime is a tad small too... my prefereed display is black apple prime, this IH, mpm ratch/bee/jazz and HA Sam. that looks absolutely perfect to me)
     
  2. artimus prime

    artimus prime Articulation Junkie... I'm a poser TFW2005 Supporter

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    Agreed... though Ratchet needs an OSKO. I'm good with the rest.
    20210429_053600.jpg
     
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  3. ghostyurei

    ghostyurei Our race was a peaceful one once...

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    MPM-11 and his 1:1 KO are decent for this group. It may be your only option.
    (Nice photo, btw!)
    63BC7B26-2FCE-46A6-8932-1E7CCBB9A2BC.jpeg
     
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  4. gtf316

    gtf316 Nuked in the face.

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  5. Shmoptimus Prime

    Shmoptimus Prime Za Warudo! TFW2005 Supporter

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    Yeah I find that ratchet scales quite nicely. If he were to be perfectly in scale it'd only need to be bigger by like 1cm or something, which makes the original well within my tolerances for scale, at least.
     
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  6. svek

    svek Well-Known Member

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    :peoples: 
    IMG_20210502_013156.jpg
     
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  7. Bakarina

    Bakarina Well-Known Member

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    What glass display is that? Looks too wide for a detolf. Looks good!
     
  8. svek

    svek Well-Known Member

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    Custom made glass cabinet made by a local Polish company. I have 2 of those where I keep pretty much all my stuff for the moment :p  Around 80x170x40[cm]
    I may need a third one in the not-so-distant future :D 
    Thanks!
    IMG_20210502_015728.jpg
     
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  9. Bakarina

    Bakarina Well-Known Member

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    You would think figure displays would be more common in this day an age. Sadly the options seem to range between $250 shipping from Ikea, and custom made displays that cost a fortune and a year to arrive...
     
  10. ghostyurei

    ghostyurei Our race was a peaceful one once...

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    Sorry for the delay. Here you go.
    IMG_3536.jpeg
     
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  11. Posing man

    Posing man Well-Known Member

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    Made in China, this is an inexpensive steel wire stand. There is no name.
     
  12. Xcandescent

    Xcandescent TRUKKS are the new MUNKYS

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    So ... a couple things.

    First, here's what he looked like in the packaging:

    IMG_20210507_185913.jpg

    Notice that there are roof parts and 3 toes floating loose. Whoever put this together apparently gave up, threw the parts in there, and called it a day. Not a great sign.

    Second, that shoulder lock video? I don't know if there's a difference in assembly or manufacturing, but:

    If you peg in the large tab in the chest, and the wheel to the ball joint, the tab talked about in the video literally cannot be pegged in to the slot he shows. Here's video proof. You can clearly see the ball joint is completely pegged in, and the assembly will not rotate or even come close to touching the tab.

    Third, you may have noticed that a wheel is missing in that video. Well, it turns out that the axle is super fragile, which is bad when you are, say, trying to fit a tab that won't go in.

    IMG_20210507_215443.jpg

    I'll probably just glue the damn thing back on and have the wheel not rotate.

    Anyway, depending on what you get, the shoulder lock "fix" might not work at all for you. I honestly don't know how that guy got it to work in the first place without breaking stuff, and I feel like that video is missing a few steps (like, say, anything to do with the front of the chest). Even if you manage to lock the shoulders down, the arms still look too short and kind of silly. If you thought the original MPM was bad, I don't see a lot with this upscale that will change your mind.
     
  13. Pitor

    Pitor Well-Known Member

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    That's because the tab you're talking about is not supposed to peg into the wheel in bot mode. Once you lock them ball sockets and align everything properly, the tab should kinda rest inside the wheel. Got mine in bot mode at the moment and I can assure you that his shoulders stay in place quite well.
     
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  14. erwinsims

    erwinsims Well-Known Member

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    Same here
     
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  15. Xcandescent

    Xcandescent TRUKKS are the new MUNKYS

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    I mean ... the entire point of the video I posted was to show that the tab doesn't come anywhere near the wheel, even when the peg is all the way in and the shoulders are locked. I don't know if it's factory misassembly or what, but it definitely does not go on mine.

    Speaking of: it took me a while to figure out, but yes the shoulders will lock if the pegs are all the way in. The issue is that it takes a considerable amount of direct force to do so, and you can't tell just by looking at the connection if it's pegged correctly (which is probably why so many reviewers were thrown by this). I find that you really need to squeeze directly on the connection, rather than doing whatever nonsense was in that "fix" video.

    As for the figure ... he's not great. He's a badly made knockoff of a bad design. He's got shelf presence, but that's about it.

    I already mentioned that he doesn't come fully assembled, and that the copy I got might have its own issues, but that's all I've got to work with. I went back and watched some videos of the original MPM figure so I could see what the differences were, and there aren't that many changes:
    • The peg locking mechanism for the shoulders is a nice try, but probably inferior to (and certainly harder to use than) just using a big ass locking bar like the DNA Design mod kit.
    • The center of the hood near the windshield is set higher than on the original so it looks better, but it's still not actually flush.
    • The tabs that peg the tips of the side windows into the front panels are no longer present.
    • The front windshield/roof now hangs from two ball joint connectors in the back, rather than from the arms; this introduces a new problem where if the ball joint is too loose, the panels will pop off during transformation to alt mode, and you then have to pull the arms out to reattach the panel (as it's difficult/impossible to do otherwise, due to the ball joint hinge collapsing into the vehicle).
    • The scaling seems ... odd. As in, he's nearly the same size as the upscaled MPM-4 Prime they made, in vehicle mode.
    The front wheels do tab in properly in vehicle mode (though working around the head to squeeze the tabs in is a pain), but whether or not they stay in depends on all the parts it's connected to, which leads me to this issue:

    Gap 1.jpeg Gap 2.jpeg

    If you set all the panels on the front end flush, then plug the bumper, front wheels, and side panels in properly, there is a large gap between the side windows and the roof. Squeezing on it pops the bumper and causes the front panels to tilt outwards. Also, the roof will unpeg at random from the back, but that was also a problem on the original MPM figure.

    I'll acknowledge that it might be my figure, but this is the sort of thing that it's hard to get an exchange for. Also: given how poorly the figure was built in the first place, I have no confidence that a replacement would be any better. And even if it was, it doesn't really address the core problem: that the original design was bad in the first place.

    Ultimately, it's Hasbro's fault that we'll probably never get a better Ironhide figure. They're too incompetent to do it properly, and too greedy to let anyone else try. That said: gotta say I'm really unimpressed at BMB's KO attempt. If you're gonna try to fix a figure, you should at least make sure your quality is up to snuff so that you don't introduce new problems.
     
  16. Xcandescent

    Xcandescent TRUKKS are the new MUNKYS

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    After playing around a little bit more with this, I'll admit I got this part wrong.

    It turns out that the shoulders can be somewhat reasonably locked, even if the ball isn't all the way in the socket. It doesn't completely lock unless it's all the way in. I figured this out when I noticed that one of the shoulders was just a tiny bit looser than the other, and the only difference was the ball not being in the socket on one side by maybe a mm.

    One of the tabs will, as a matter of course, rest in the wheel, but that's not the important thing to look for. What you're actually looking for is this:

    Ball Socket Correct.jpeg

    You want the peg in the hole basically up to the joint.

    The problem of course is getting it that way. It isn't just a matter of needing to exert a lot of force -- it's that the ball naturally wants to come out of the socket, and actively resists attempts to push it in. The only reasonable way to do this without breaking stuff is to pinch it closed directly:

    Ball Socket Pinch.jpeg

    (Normally I'd have my thumb on the joint, but I reversed the grip so I could actually take a decent shot.)

    You might still end up with breakage due to the amount of force needed (again: bad design), but at least you're actually applying force directly instead of just pushing on the outside of the wheel and hoping for the best.
     
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  17. VVa

    VVa I play to win, and I'm not a good loser.

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    I tell myself I need to be patient when I order things but I always feel the need to come to the threads and it just makes the arrival of Mr. Hide all the more dreadful. So the consensus is that he's better but not perfect? I'll be more than happy with that because him being bigger and arm fixes sell him, even if they're not the best fixes.
     
  18. IcedPhoenix

    IcedPhoenix Well-Known Member

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    Any place I can still get this guy?
     
  19. VVa

    VVa I play to win, and I'm not a good loser.

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  20. Black Shuck

    Black Shuck Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone it with both weapons blue led? Or it is intended as the new aw01 release? I saw more reviews where it has both blue led. Other than that it is a much better figure than the original mpm6.
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