Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Trentulas, Oct 5, 2016.
Ahhhhhh, I love these. I've gotta get a couple of these some time.
There she is! I ordered mine (with nose) and Switchblade yesterday, can't wait for her to arrive.
This is awesome. Now I just need a body for her.
Who's Switchblade supposed to be? Riptide?
Game exclusive character I think Switchblade (Prime) - Transformers Wiki
I'm modifying (rear wheels and hood, mostly) a TR Chromedome for her.
That’s actually a good pick. I was leaning more towards CW offroad mold given the altmode and with the use of trents CW-TR conversion parts.
Wondering if you had a shadow strike head for bumblebee titan return and nightbird head for chromia?
Dave Van Domelen posted pics of his Ironworks with my windmill add-on. Check it out!
Hey Trent. how much do you charge for a commission of a new, full deluxe class head? I want to figure out if I have the spending money in the next month for something....
Depends on the design, usually $60 for a full head's sculpt work.
Honestly, much better than I was expecting! Soon, Trent….. sooooon…...
I order your bear head for shuffler. But it super loose. Idk if it was just a print or design.
It could be a combination of both. You many want to apply paint and a thin layer of glue to help. Shapeways tolerances are a little off, but it's good for prototyping.
It hasn't been an issue on previous prints, so it may be a matter of the specific print or the material chosen. What material did you choose?
Nightstrike's recommendation of utilizing thin coats of paint to the interior of the joint is an effective process for compensating for variations in the printing process.
I got smooth fine print.
That's highly unusual. Usually if there's a print-by-print variation it shows up in the processed materials. I have to include a certain amount of 'wiggle room' in the variations, because while it's possible to make almost any connection tighter during the painting process, it's far more difficult to make connections looser, particularly in sockets. And if smooth detail gets too tight, it runs the risk of breakage.
There are a couple of ways to adjust for this.
The most simple is to simply use thin layers of paint on the socket area, allowed to fully dry, to tighten the connection. Alternatively, a one or two small piece of shipping tape cut ot match the contours of the top of the base figure's neck-peg can achieve the same friction increase. The tape has the advantage that it's easily reversible without sanding if you accidentally over-tighten.
Let me know if these techniques don't work out.
New in the store:
Biosword, a biomechanical melee weapon available in the standard sizes and grips.
GristleGun, a biomechanical ranged weapon available in the standard sizes and grips.
Alternate bent-blade version of the Ironworks Windmill, by popular demand.
Man, I'm a sucker for biomechanical stuff. Although I may not buy from you, your work is most certainly impressive.
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