Minor/Repaint: Omnibots Downshift, Camshaft, Overdrive - MP Scaled (technically) W.I.P.

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by wingheaven7, Jul 5, 2014.

  1. wingheaven7

    wingheaven7 Well-Known Member

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    My take on the omnibots. Inspiration came from several board members who have already done similar things. I figured I give it a try too and heres what I came up with. They are technically MP scaled if going by the original G1 toy size comparison to current MP Prime and the MP cars. (its a stretch, but I'm ok with it)

    Group shot
    [​IMG]

    Overdrive is a strait repaint of RTS Jazz, only change was swapping speakers for little pew pew lasers from a different figure. Everything fits when transformed and can do a semi omni alt mode with weapons out.
    [​IMG]

    Downshift is a moderate Mod using the extra head that came with the original Maketoys Battle Tanker for RTS Laser Prime. Attached using the extra neck part that it came with and drilling a hole for it to fit. The windshield chest is possible due to a square cut out the top for the springy neck piece to fit through. The head is the only part currently painted. Going to paint the shoulders since they have blue tint left over from when this figure used to be a custom generations smokescreen/bluestreak. Was also going to remove the black strip on top but I like how it looks so I'm keeping it. Door wings where cut to allow front part to stay on chest in robot mode. front part was glued on. Does not interfere with possibility/transformation.
    [​IMG]

    Camshaft is a very slight mode of Generations Wheeljack. The Head used to be Wheeljack, but I cut and sculpted to the best interpretation of his head shape as I could get and then painted it. I used the 91% alcohol trick to get most of his paint strips off, the rest I got off using a razor and patient scraping. I found a way to connect the wings on the the lower legs, see pic. Gets them off his back and looks pretty good IMO.
    [​IMG]

    Action shot front
    [​IMG]

    Action shot rear, you can see I need more paint on overdrive in this shot
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So what do you all think of it so far. Looking to for tips, comments, etc. Thanks in advance and will post final pictures in a few days.
     

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  2. BScorpinok75

    BScorpinok75 Squadron X #1 Consultant

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    Cool customs...l always geek out for Omnibot customs...:thumb ...wonder if Hasbro has or would consider slight retools of these molds in a similar fashion to their Chromia from Prime Arcee retooling...
     
  3. Tresob

    Tresob Well-Known Member

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    I dig it! Those are well-functioning likenesses...and I always like to see these guys get some love. Next, we need some Powerdashers.
     
  4. King Kaiser

    King Kaiser BEARS!!!!

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    Awesome!
     
  5. BScorpinok75

    BScorpinok75 Squadron X #1 Consultant

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    Agreed on the Powerdashers...the should at the least been homaged durin the UT era as minicons...
     
  6. wingheaven7

    wingheaven7 Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, 2 votes for power dashers? Don't think I've ever made customs to those. Does anyone have some good artwork I can use as reference? I know of them, but they were not on my 80's childhood radar. Would like to give this a go if I can.

    Forgot to upload the Omni mode picture. Best I could get out of these molds without major cutting/alterations etc.
    [​IMG]
     

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  7. Downshift56

    Downshift56 Omnibot

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    Could you please post a tutorial on how to make Camshaft...or Downshift...whatever his name is...the white one. I would love to make one like this. :)  also. Could you put it in terms for a beginner? IVE never made a custom and would like this to be the first
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014
  8. wingheaven7

    wingheaven7 Well-Known Member

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    sure thing. Give me a day or two to get something together. Will add to this thread for anyone else interested.
     
  9. SMOG

    SMOG Vocab-champion ArgueTitan

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    Wow, that Camshaft mod is rather inspired. :thumb 

    zmog
     
  10. Downshift56

    Downshift56 Omnibot

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    Thanks :D 
     
  11. Dormamu

    Dormamu I am Broot.

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    The mod for Downshift is what really looks amazing to me. It creates a whole different chest from just a simple hole and pivot. Really well done to differentiate these characters.
     
  12. deliciouspeter

    deliciouspeter Back in Black TFW2005 Supporter

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    Nice work. Great change on the Downshift bot mode.
     
  13. wingheaven7

    wingheaven7 Well-Known Member

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    how i did camshaft, a guide for beginners: Warning, HUGE block of text follows lol

    what you'll need:
    *one Chug Wheeljack-for modding of course
    *crazy glue-for the head
    *one small cup with water-to clean your brush before the paint dries
    *one small cloth- to wipe the water off your clean brush
    *Tamiya modelers side cutter- for cutting Wheeljacks "ears"
    *one curved blade and one regular x-acto blade- X-acto makes a set that has many different blade that fit into a wooden handle. i recommend it as one of those razors is curved and the set is easily found in any Walmarts hobby section. with patients and a steady hand the blade can be used to scrape off all the paint stripes. the curved blade is also easier to guide and see results, where as the straight blade is better for carving details or shaping small sections like eye sockets.
    *91% isopropyl Alcohol and an old toothbrush- also easy to obtain at any Walmart. look for it in the first aid section, should have a red label. DO NOT Inhale fumes if you use this. use in ventilated area. fumes can eff you up.
    *Tamiya acrilic Gloss Coat-check your hobby shop, they may not have tamiya, but most carry gloss coat of some kind. i prefer acrylic over enamel anything. can be wiped off with water while wet and alcohol when dry removes it very easy. keep this in mind if you ever paint in the future. you need enamel thinner to remove enamel paint and that stuff also melts plastic.
    *one soft short paint brush- brush should be no long than 1-2/8 inch. any longer and it gets harder to control where the paint goes.
    *one 10ml bottle of Tamiya acrylic sky grey, XF-19-used for the face.
    *one 10ml bottle of Tamiya acrylic semi gloss black, X-18-used for painting upper arms, head and any green plastic.
    *one 10ml bottle of Tamiya acrylic White, X-2-for touching up the car top should you use the alcohol, or scrape off too much when removing the stripes. also used to fill the vent paneling as thats really hard to get all the stripe color out.
    *one Gundam marker metallic blue, or any other light blue metallic paint- for the eyes
    *one bag of round glass bath beads- put one bead in each paint bottle you purchase. that way you can shake up the bead, similar to how spray bottles worth if you ever go a while between using them (helps mix settled paints). they are cheap and can be found in your Walmart bath or candles section.
    if you have all these things in place you are well on your way to no longer being a :noob 

    step one-remove the stripes.
    2 ways to do this. use the curved razor and carefully remove the color by gently scraping the paint off until you see white. Or put the car in a shallow bowl, or your sink, and pour some alcohol on it. use the tooth brush on the stripes. should see it melt the colors off while leaving your figure in tact. colors will bleed and it gets messy, use more alcohol to get bled colors out. you may want to wear gloves and a mask, or work outdoors when doing this. whatever you do don't do this in a small unventilated space, like a bathroom sink. been there and got light headed myself. using this method will also almost definitely remove paint you may want to keep, like all the white from the top of the car, and the grey on the back third that becomes the backpack. i prefer to scrap.

    step two-modding the face
    unscrew the head and separate it into its three parts. use the side cutter to clip the ears off. make sure the flat side is facing the head. you want to cut off the thinner part, not the entire ear. leave behind the fatter section, it will become the base for when you reattach the smaller bits on top of them. use your metallic blue paint on the eyes now. now take the curved blade and scrape down wheeljacks face. you should see the silver paint come off. do this over and over until it smooths out the three face ridges. try to keep his other angles in tact. by that i mean, don't scrape off the edges that run vertical on his face. if you do you'll end up with a rounded face plate. also leave the chin in place. this parts takes the most time and you want to make sure you have plenty of light. NEVER SCRAPE OR CUT IF YOU CAN'T SEE WHERE THE KNIFE IS GOING. also SCRAPE AWAY FROM YOURSELF AND FINGERS, NOT TOWARDS. and lastly, DO NOT USE SO MUCH FORCE THAT THE BLADE DIGS DEEP, OR BENDS, OR JUTS IN ANY UNPREDICTABLE WAY. easy ways to really mess your self up. hold the blade in such a way that your thumb is behind it and all your fingers are clear. kind of like peeling potatoes with a switch blade, just on a really small scale.

    use the side cutter to remove the left and right head ridge. leave middle one in place. see my picture for what it should look like. use a razor to smooth out the head. Wheeljack has deadpan eyes, so you can use the regular razor to shape up his forehead.

    once all that is done put the head back together and glue the side parts you cut earlier to the top of the left over ear parts you will want to glue the thin parts with the narrower ends on top. make sure you only put enough glue to glue these parts back to the clear ear part. any more and you could end up fusing the three head parts and won't be able to put the head back on. they will look fat now, sitting on his head. look for the seam line on those bits. should be running front to back. put the side cutter on the seam line. flat part facing head, and cut off everything on the outside of that seam. its how you end up with thinner ear antenna, see my picture. use the knife to shape up anything out of place. once you have everything shaped up the way you want, use the sky gray and carefully paint a few coats on his "mask" everything else gets the black semi gloss.

    step three-wing parts forming
    pop the wings out of there sockets. open the silver wing tip and slide them into the space between the c-clip post for his "wrenches in his legs. see pictures above. then slide the rear view mirrors into the inside of the wheels. should lock in nice and tight.

    step four-arm adjustment
    raise the arms up, you will see that there is a small grey squarish part that keeps the arms from going any lower in robot mode. makes him look dumb. use the side cutter to make those curvier. a 45 degree snip should be enough. now the arms can go down lower for a more natural look.

    step 5-painting the arms and touch up work.
    upper arms get the black semi gloss. don't worry if it looks thin on your first pass or if you still see white just keep going and keep is steady and smooth. try to do one arm first, then the other, then go back to the first arm for another coat. should not need three coats. try to avoid caking the paint. if you see clumps forming on your brush, wash it.

    then use the white to touch up the car top, if you remove the autobot logo grab a reprolabel symbol from reprolabels.com. white paint is a PAIN to apply. takes many coats to cover anything, even bare clear plastic. be patient.

    use the semi gloss to put the sheen back into any parts that you scrapped too deep when removing the striping, if you choose to scrap it off.

    Final thoughts-thanks for reading you've been a great guest!
    the overall look will depend on your ability to sculpt, patience during your process and being able to stop yourself from cutting too much. you can always scrap little by little, but if you accidentally make big cuts with that knife and don't like the end result your kind of screwed.

    never thought I'd write something like this. let me know if it helps. also keep your mind open to different ways of doing things. this is what worked for me, but there are other with way more talent than i possess that do things completely different and it works for them.

    one last thing, if something makes you nervous, stop. spend some time thinking about whatever it is. look it up online, mull it over while doing something else. most of my customs spend upward of 6 months in my head before i start to actually do it. once i start i'll work non stop for days at a time. if something stumps me i'll stop and walk away for a while. helps me figure out what i need to do to get "it" just right. i also have the bad habit of not really "finishing" anything, but thats just me cause i like to constantly tweak my work once it exists.
     
  14. Downshift56

    Downshift56 Omnibot

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    Thanks a bunch :) 
     
  15. Megatronus 1981

    Megatronus 1981 Well-Known Member

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    Might have to try this myself :)  good work
     
  16. makoaspire

    makoaspire & WTF-Ever...

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    sweet!
     
  17. KnightStrike

    KnightStrike Well-Known Member

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    These are awesome!
     
  18. JLvatron

    JLvatron Transformer

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    This is awesome! :)  And I agree these are definitely relatively MP sized!!
    I give you a score of 9 out of 10! :) 

    the 1 mark was lost because:

    Oh dude, that's Downshift. :peoples: 
    Camshaft was the gray 1 with the Optimus looking head.:wink: 


    I agree! Tutorial please!
    These are awesome!! :) 
     
  19. JLvatron

    JLvatron Transformer

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    That's really "Camshaft" :lol 

    I think you got that right! :D 

    You mean Cam...
    I mean, Down...

    ...I'm getting confused! Why don't we just talk about Overdrive!!! :D  :D 
     
  20. Autovolt 127

    Autovolt 127 Get In The Titan, Prime!

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    Oh man these are awesome dude.