MPM-10 Starscream KO

Discussion in 'Transformers 3rd Party Discussion' started by xueyue2, Oct 26, 2020.

  1. tfgato

    tfgato Well-Known Member

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    I only have WD40, would that be ok or do you recommend any other?.
     
  2. Rewind

    Rewind Data Stick

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    Sorry to butt in but I’d recommend using any molybdenum grease you can find. It’s very plastic-friendly. WD-40 can damage some kinds of plastic.

    This is one I bought nearly ten years ago and is lasting forever.

    06CF2ABC-4526-4A0B-9508-329E74253F15.jpeg
     
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  3. Gepard

    Gepard Well-Known Member

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    +1 to never using WD-40 on plastic. It's a degreaser and water repellant designed for use on metal. It is absolutely not for use on plastic.
     
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  4. gtf316

    gtf316 Nuked in the face.

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    As others have said, don't use WD40.

    I got silicone oil (dimethicone) from amazon for a few bucks.
     
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  5. tfgato

    tfgato Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your answers!
     
  6. svek

    svek Well-Known Member

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  7. Ribieconvoy

    Ribieconvoy It's pronounced "ribby"

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    Something I noticed on this version of the mold is that they reworked the pegs used to plug the wings into place. On the official, the wings that end up on his back just have hook tabs that loosely fit in place into slots. In this KO, they reworked it to use a series of three pegs and a small tab on the side. I ended up having to shave some material off the one on the side because they were just too big on mine and didn't allow me to secure the wings without stressing the tabs to the point where they felt they may break.

    Lovely figure, just need to be prepared to make some small tweaks!
     
  8. williammmw

    williammmw MuderPrimus

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    To transform the feet, make sure u put your pressure on both side, at the center of the feet. If rotate it slowly, you will be able to move it. It did it with mine without any oil or sanding, it works.

    If you really worry, you can see the connector on the feet is not really in round shape, but hexagon. Use pen knife to shave the corner to make it round for easier rotation
     
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  9. gundam8864

    gundam8864 Well-Known Member

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    Never ever used WD40, it will destroy your figure.
    You can try buying Tokyo Marui Silicon oil Maintainance Spray at amazon, is very common stuff at Japan Hobby world
    61xnwMrhm1L._AC_SY741_.jpg
     
  10. Posing man

    Posing man Active Member

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    Hi guys I filmed a posing video. There is no waist movable function. So, there is a limit to the action posing. Still, it's a great product and I like it.


     
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  11. svek

    svek Well-Known Member

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    I was really expecting mine today but polish post decided not to deliver it for no reason :banghead: 
     
  12. XIII

    XIII Well-Known Member

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    Got mine in hand this weekend. I also have the official.

    I hate to say this as I do my best to support official and avoid KO but this KO is 110% improved over the official. Not just paint but materials and fit and finish. This is definitely one of those extremely rare cases where KO is better.

    It's like a twilight zone episode or a mirror universe. Side by side, not only does the KO look premium and the official look chincy, but the plastic is flipped too. The plastic on the KO feels crisp, sharp and durable. The official feels oily and soft like dollar store plastic. The placement of diecast in the KO is all in the feet giving what should be a top heavy design some much needed grounded weight. The official has some diecast in the feet but the bulk of the weight is in the bicep which adds to the top heavy nature. The KO joints are tight and the ratchets are clicky. The official joints are not tight and some people report floppy and the ratchets are soft at best. The KO re-engineered the butt flap with a simple hinge that the official should have had and replaces all that warped rubber parts with plastic that holds its shape but has some flex so it won't snap. The KO adds back some molded details missing from the official as well as filling some holes that the official has for part/mold release. The official has the left foot on the right leg and the right foot on the left leg. The KO corrects this. Then there is the paint. While not 100% accurate, and yes the silver head IS accurate to the film, I have worked with the ILM files, the KO paint is beautiful probably the most correct we have ever gotten.

    My only complaints are I dispise the use of translucent plastic for the saw blade and the blue paint on the bot mode thrusters is not preferred. But these are personal preference and can be reminded easily with a little paint. Structurally, the additional diecast in the feet was not well thought out. The official uses diecast for the feet and plastic for the ankle. The ankle has a soft ratchet moulded in which works because the plastic flexes a small amount. The KO molds this ankle in diecast but does not redesign the soft ratchet and, unless the consumer is aware of the flaw and modifies the joint to correct the flaw, risks the joint locking and if forced can cause the ankle to snap. This is the only real flaw in the whole figure.

    Is this worth replacing your official? Even if you managed to get the official on clearance (I never saw it on clearance or in store for that matter)? The answer is, and I can't believe I'm saying this as someone that is very anti KO, yes. Replace your official. If for any reason to send TT a message that they need to step up their game. If the official was on par with this KO, I wouldn't lament paying the full retail price. Since it's not and this KO is SO much improved, the official isn't even worth its clearance price.
     
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  13. Olivus Prime

    Olivus Prime Space Ranger

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    IMG_0489[2].JPG

    Got mine through today. Haven't had a chance to transform him yet, but I'm impressed so far. I'll need to find the official instructions online though, as not only do the KO instructions involve tiny pictures with thin line art, they start partway into the transformation!

    The silver head tends to look more noticeable in darker lighting, where there isn't as much light reflecting from the dull grey plastic. Either way it looks fine for me.
     

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  14. VulpineX

    VulpineX Well-Known Member

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    One more broken ankle.
     

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  15. XIII

    XIII Well-Known Member

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    Yeah... changing this to diecast without modifying the design was a dumb idea. Won't matter how much lube you use. There is a notch that needs to be removed because when the ankle was plastic, it would flex a bit. Now that the ankle is diecast, it is metal on metal and that notch prevents movement.

    advice to anyone getting this figure. DON'T FORCE IT! it WILL snap.
     
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  16. PlatypusRhyme

    PlatypusRhyme Well-Known Member

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    Is the snapping only an issue for transformation or is it also an problem for articulation in bot mode?
     
  17. VulpineX

    VulpineX Well-Known Member

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    image.jpeg
    I didn't use much force at all. I'd read this thread so I was forewarned.
    The other ankle, the figure's left/on the right as you look at robot mode head on, worked perfectly well.
    Anyone else think these two white bits should be grey?
     
  18. VulpineX

    VulpineX Well-Known Member

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    I had no issues with posing in robot mode, with the ankles.
     
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  19. timcourtois

    timcourtois Well-Known Member

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    How does it need to be modded? Are there pics anywhere showing precisely what & how to mod it? (Thanks in advance!)
     
  20. QuinJester

    QuinJester T. Bison

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    If anything, the white segment on the left side of the jet should be even bigger (and the one on the right side shouldn't be there)

    F22.jpg
     
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