Discussion in 'Transformers Toy Discussion' started by Shin Densetsu, Jul 3, 2021.
My Screamer had the engine give out on me after noticing cracks. Gutted.
Wow, a lot of issues this early, is this another Hound situation?
I have a crack in the same area but not wide enough to the point where it could come off. Sorry it happened man!
Thanks. Just treat the heel right and I pray yours doesnt break as well.
I have an extremely loose left foot / ankle. Any recommendations on how to fix?
You’re welcome. For my copy, since I was worried for the inevitable and figured if it’s gonna crack further…might as well crack now…I moved the moving pieces back and forth a lot…no further cracks around there yet. I noticed that the engine nozzle was tight on 1 side so I brace it when extending by holding onto the tab as leverage(to decrease tension near the pin socket). Almost certain rough/offset assembly(pin firing) is what caused yours to break. That area has tough plastic but the pin firing into it can weaken it if it’s at the wrong angle.
Also I read a study recently(forgot where last week) mentioning that some ABS plastic can be weakened structurally after it’s been painted over. I knew certain paints can do it but I think the paints in question were acrylic which was pretty surprising.
This was the culprit with mine. The pin was misaligned on entry. so it made the entire section warped. I got a replacement and that unit happens to be flawless.
Can you link me to that study, please?? That is insane that acrylic paint would make plastic weaken. O_O
This is long but look under “Painting Study”:
Understanding the Effects of Paint On Plastics
Take into account, it does go into specifics, from what I understand, acrylic specifically made for model kits shouldn’t weaken ABS. It’s a long read, I haven’t read it all yet.
Think they had found something similar with some Gundam kits/ Gundam markers combination was causing damage to the plastic.
That was switching from ABS frames on MG kits to PS(polystyrene) to reduce the chance of someone melting the plastic after painting or finishing with enamel, oil, lacquer or some paint/medium that wasn’t water based.
Did some more testing. Figure if it’s going to break, I’d rather see it now than later. I’m impatient like that. Plus, just wanted to know how it could break to avoid breaking it in the future. I’ve done this for years with all my import toys. So I’m used to it and so with toys in general this hasn’t been anything new to me but since a few years back it’s been like this with MP’s. Not excusing it, just saying that experience fixing other stuff came in handy for issues like on my copy of MP-52.
Anyways, today I inspected the forearms a lot closer. The forearms are painted on the outside with a blue that’s very close to the color they’re molded in. Right forearm looked fine, socket looked like it might have a stress mark from within but hasn’t felt weak. The forearms are made of a dense and tough blue plastic. I’ll get to that more in a few. The way the hands are designed, the sides of the forearm expand slightly to peg the wrist joints in(2 pegs on each side). This keeps the wrist/hand on by tension and prevents the wrist/hand from just falling out when the forearm opens up for transformation. There’s some give to them but it’s a tight fit. Right forearm with no cracks is tighter than the left forearm that has a few cracks.
Left arm…cracks still there. Crack on top, above the wrist joint, expands a bit when the hands are flipped out for transformation(that 180 movement). Small cracks to the of it didn’t expand much(just a tiny bit) whether the joint was moved or when I removed the wrist/hand entirely. Oddly enough, when the the cracks did expand, some oil or liquid(mold release? Byproduct of paint?) seeped out. I could tell since I had a light shining on it and I repeated the process(because science!). This tells me that whatever this liquid or oil is, it’s coming from underneath the paint(as I repeated the process of removing and reattaching the hand/wrist and wiping off the liquid each time it emerged afterwards). I have no idea what the hell it is and the inside of the forearm looked unpainted and not oily. Leaves me concerned about chemical reaction(and I’m not used to seeing this happen on items painted with acrylic).
Noticed some excess flash near the socket, trimmed that. Also noticed some near 1 wrist peg on the left hand. Trimmed that too. Noticed 1 peg was also malformed(wasn’t even compared to the other side), so I sanded it down to even it out.
At this point, I hope the left forearm doesn’t crack further and from my repeated strength testing(slowly prying both sides of the left forearm apart to see if they’d crack further) it doesn’t feel like it will.
So this leads me to believe that at the assembly line in the factory, whomever is attaching the hands to the forearms, may be using a tool to pry the forearm wrist sockets apart(to make it easier to attach the hands/wrists). I say this because if you use a tool, you won’t really be able to feel if you’re stressing the plastic or not. If you’re using your fingers, you’ll definitely be able tell. Now imagine this is being done quickly with a tool and no one is looking back at the sockets to inspect. These cracks on my copy are small and very easy to miss. The crack at the top of the wrist on the left arm doesn’t even show up unless you flip the hand in or out for transformation. Still not able to tell if it’s an actual crack in the plastic or just a crack in the paint.
Mine only has paint chipping on the die-cast parts and minor stress marks on the ankles.
The ONLY widespread issues I've got is the cracks on the tailfins which don't seem to get worse and the somewhat loose ankles which I'm too scared to attempt fixing because I don't have the same type of floor polish as American collectors do and after breaking and fixing my Gen selects Abominus, I'm pretty much put off from fixing or modifying my figures for a while.
Nifty, thank you!
Huh, just noticed his right hip outward ratchet joint has stopped clicking somewhat, only soft ratcheting, but dw it's not loose at all might have been user error on my part
It's cold comfort to those that already have a damaged MP, but after speaking with TCP they advised me they're sourcing parts and will add them to my stash when they're ready to mail. Unfortunately, I'm already paid up with other retailers on MP-52+ TC. I'm sitting out TC and MP-53 and 54 pending QC but wanted to share since they're the only U.S. vendor for TT that I've ever had offer A.S.S. beyond "you wanna exchange it or take a refund?"
Can you determine whether or not your figure has loose or cracked ankles while it's still in jet mode? I haven't transformed mine yet and I was going to try to get it replaced but the process is becoming a pain in the ass. If mine doesn't have that issue I may just keep it.
You can. Open up the exhaust ports on the back of the foot, and lower the blue portion of his feet down. You should be able to manipulate the figure, and rotate it around so that you can see the posts clearly.
Separate names with a comma.