Minor/Repaint: MP-44 General Fix Thread

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by BrutiKing, Sep 3, 2019.

?

Which knee on your MP-44 broke?

  1. None

    58.9%
  2. Right Knee

    7.4%
  3. Left Knee

    16.0%
  4. Both

    17.8%
  1. eVac Z

    eVac Z Cybertron and all of its figures belong to ME!

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    Welp, seems I was partially right about just snapping that tab off. Will do it as soon as mine arrives if UPS finally decides to get off their lazy bums.
     
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  2. OMEGAPRIME1983

    OMEGAPRIME1983 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good, thanks!!
     
  3. God Orion

    God Orion Well-Known Member

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    I agree 100%!!!

    I want to thank @BrutiKing here for taking the time to message me and help me fixing the knee of my MP44. It is awesome seeing people with that much patience and passion help others!
    So huge thank you!

    It should be fixed now but I want to let the glue cure for a day before putting the figure together and try to see if it works. I Simply cleaned the surface as best as I could and sanded it where the glue goes. It sticks hard after 3 hours but I shall wait until tomorrow just to be sure!
     
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  4. shadow panther

    shadow panther Mechanically Insane

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    wouldnt cutting the tabs be the best fix?
     
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  5. g0tht3ch

    g0tht3ch Well-Known Member

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    No, as I think the black screw also needs tightening.

    The fact the piece can move means it's free. If it's free it can shift over the ratchet teeth. The leg cut means no glue, but you may get other wear.

    Fixing the piece AND tightening the screw means you should be cool. I did both. See my vid on page 5 - I don't have to hold the joint, I can just move the leg.
     
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  6. edgecrusher

    edgecrusher Pepperidge Farm remembers TFW2005 Supporter

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    Where is the black screw that needs tightening? Is it visible in the video? Thanks.
     
  7. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    Grey will be a custom mixture I'll come up with this weekend. I believe rough silver will be part of the mixture to get the semi-metallic effect it has. Not sure what greys I'll use. Can I get a picture of the character yellow on? Thanks.[/QUOTE]

    I haven’t applied the character yellow on, just bought a bottle. I’m thinking of actually repainting the entire front waist plate, using gloss white.
     
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  8. jackisking

    jackisking Yeah, the MP line is soooo dead

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    I was greasing the ratchets and realized I have lost the piece that's the cause of this problem:banghead: :banghead: 
     
  9. Jarrod

    Jarrod Semi-retired Builder

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    Alright folks, I've taken this guy apart for the last time! I've got mine to where I am 100% confident in the knees now, with some further insight on to what might be causing it in the first place. Ultimately however, that damn little part being separate from the house is truly the root of everything. There's tolerances here and there, but none of that would matter if it wasn't a separate part.

    The only way I see to truly "fix" the issue is combining the parts. If you have a glue that works, do it! Gorilla glue seems to have worked great for BrutiKing and a few others. Other brands of Super (CA) glue have failed miserably for others. I'm just going to say this, however: In my many, many years of customizing and repairing figures, I'm not confident in how long glue will successfully hold that type of plastic together. BUT, the tolerances might by just enough that it's all it needs. The good news is, it can't hurt to try!

    I also believe, after handing mine some more, that the chance of the housing failing, unless you are ridiculously careful, is pretty high. It's a poor design, plain and simple. HOWEVER, that said, I do believe I've found more areas to help reduce that risk.

    Below is meant to be an addendum to what has already been posted, so refer back to the previous posts to really get everything:

    I disassembled even further than last time, and can confirm @Paik4Life 's assessment that my tabs glided easily through the channels with nothing else involved.....except right at the end of the left leg. It would get caught on this little blob of excess paint! With how precise everything is, I can definitely see this gumming up everything, and could easily be a reason for failure.
    20190906_180540.jpg

    The next thing I saw, my housing was beginning to show damage as well. I've been pretty careful when mine, always making sure to bend everything in the correct order, but it seemed to only alleviate some of the issue.
    20190906_173201.jpg

    But the thing that stuck out to me the most was the ratchet shaft. I noticed the parts were really snug on it the first time, and a few other uses mentioned it as well. In fact, look at this, both parts are staying, on their own, on the shaft, despite how strong that spring is underneath!
    20190906_173022.jpg

    That just should not happen. Both ratcheting parts should not have that much grip on the shaft. And that's even after I greased them! That spring underneath is strong, and big.
    20190906_173045.jpg

    If that offending ratchet part is snug enough to hold that spring down, there's a good chance that it's too snug to rotate properly. Even if the channel was properly lined up, and free, there's a good chance there could just be too much resistance on the shaft to allow it to rotate in the first place.

    Now, I noticed the shaft was only super snug toward the end. So I trimmed down the edges of it. I also filed down the inside of the blue tab piece until it slid on with no resistance and did not hold the spring down.
    20190906_173909.jpg

    THIS right here, up to this point,is what I recommend everyone doing whether you want to try gluing the parts or not: File/trim that shaft, file down the inner wall of the blue tab part, and grease up both the shaft and the inner wall!


    If you want to go further, and have the tools and experience to do so, and glue isn't working for you, or you just want more reinforcement, pin those parts together.

    I used .75mm rod (.32 Music Wire rod found at Hobby Lobby...I prefer brass, but they didn't have thin enough). I drilled all the way through the tabbed part, right through the other side. Then, lined up, and drilled into the housing. Insert some precut rod, and dab a little glue in to help hold it in place:
    20190906_174538.jpg

    Attach to the other side...I used a little Zap a Gap as well, since it seemed to be holding on the pins. Also, like I said, can't hurt! Then I spread grease around the inside wall, and assembled everything all together!

    20190906_175227.jpg

    My knees are now rock solid! And I do not expect any failure at this part. In fact, it's clear this is how TT intended it to work. I doesn't matter how carefully I bend the knees, it doesn't matter where I hold the legs, the top joint moves first, and then the lower one just effortlessly takes over.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2019
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  10. Jarrod

    Jarrod Semi-retired Builder

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    And now for the wobbly hips! Just a warning, I recommend the below for more experienced modders. At least for the most part...its fairly involved, and the results are fairly minor, haha.

    Anyway, just getting to ratchets is very involved. Remove all the screws below. Plus the one on the blue part of his butt.
    20190906_164740.jpg 20190906_164909.jpg 20190906_165037.jpg

    So the reason his hip joints (the ones directly connected to his waist) wobble in and out is because there is a little space between the inside ratchet and inner pelvis wall. You can see the gap versus not gap
    20190906_165609.jpg 20190906_165618.jpg

    This is because the shaft connecting the joint to the ratchet is ever so slightly too long. (It's done on purpose, I discovered later. More below). If you want to correct this, read everything first! But what I did was file just papers thin width off the upper most plane of the white shaft:
    20190906_165923.jpg

    Then, filed the same amount of both upper most planes of the blue ratchet shaft:
    20190906_165930.jpg

    This negated the gap...but cause another issue. The reason that gap was there, was so the spring loaded front skirt part could move freely! Doh! It's OK though. They still retract fine perfectly fine, but sometimes they need a little help to fully come down, usually its only a few millimeters, but still. To combat this, I just grease up this little ridge. Helped some, but not totally.
    20190906_183409.jpg

    The good news is, this also solved most of the forward and backwards play the the hip ratchets had! But it could still be better. See this little tiny gap here? That allows the ratchet tooth to move up and down just a tiny bit, which causes some of that play.
    20190906_170324.jpg
    So just slide a tiny piece of paper in there. Or some VERY thin styrene.
    20190906_170415.jpg

    So NOW, my Prime's legs are super solid! No weak knees, no wobbly hips, forward and back or outwards. It took a whole lot more time that I'd have preferred spending on a brand new high end toy. And yeah, but hip skirts don't perfectly spring back any more. But you know what? To ME, it was a good trade off! I've been eagerly anticipating this release, and he did not disappoint! Even if I had to add my own TLC, he's absolutely the perfect rendition of the character I've wanted. Totally worth the extra work!
     
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  11. edgecrusher

    edgecrusher Pepperidge Farm remembers TFW2005 Supporter

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    Thanks. So does snipping the one part alleviate the need to do any of this and equally prevent the part from failing that tends to fail?
     
  12. Jarrod

    Jarrod Semi-retired Builder

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    I would have said yes earlier. But I think how tight that shaft is, is alot more responsible than I initially thought. So, no, I don't think it will fully alleviate the problem.

    What you would be doing is just creating a simple ratchet joint. However, there's a good chance that instead of the ratchet clicking properly, that the ratchet would remain immobile, and you'd just be damaging the housing after all.
     
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  13. edgecrusher

    edgecrusher Pepperidge Farm remembers TFW2005 Supporter

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    Ah, so removing the tight friction between the shaft components may be the critical part, and combined with snipping the part, would remove the most risk? Or would the whole gluing thing still be necessary? And if so, is snipping off the tab not necessary at all? Or still might help?
     
  14. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    @BrutiKing

    just some updates...don’t use too much thinner. I used Mr. Hobby thinner on the front skirt, and i noticed that the plastic starting “shredding”? Don’t know if it will break but i did that on a figure before and it eventually broke.

    I’m going to stop for now and if I have time, will continue next week.

    Basically my plan is:

    1. Remove the paint from front skirt
    2. Apply gloss white
    3. Apply yellow

    How did you remove the halves? Just unscrewing the screws? I don’t have to remove any pins? Thanks in advance! :) 
     
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  15. anubis20

    anubis20 Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks! What if we were to just use the thin piece of styrene on the last step and not to everything else. Would the help alleviate the play a little?
     
  16. Jarrod

    Jarrod Semi-retired Builder

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    I'd recommend removing the friction and at least trying glue. Snipping the tab at that point could help, but could also be completely unnecessary depending on the success of the first steps.

    Just screws. Lots of them.

    Oh yeah, I meant to say that in my post. Yes, just slotting something above the ratchet tooth should help. I wish I would have tried that first to see how much.

    I'm also thinking, perhaps cutting a thin circle of styrene and sandwiching it in between the two blue ratchets might get rid of the side wobble too.
     
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  17. anubis20

    anubis20 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you so much!!!
     
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  18. JonnyHanukkah

    JonnyHanukkah Well-Known Member

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    Sooooo.... it looks like I'm just completely missing a ratchet on his right knee. This is straight out of the box like this. See highlighted area. What the heck should I do now?
     

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  19. BrutiKing

    BrutiKing Apparently Ratchet Now.

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    What do you mean you used thinner on the front skirt? The thinner is lacquer, which is the same as what takara uses to paint, so you have to be careful. Can you DM me and we can work this out together further if possible. Thanks!

    Do you think you can get an exchange? Missing ratchets are problems that can’t really be fixed.
     
  20. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man! Appreciate it! I’m thinking if i pick up the reissue, I may mix and match the parts.
     
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