MMC OX Assaultus

Discussion in 'Transformers 3rd Party Discussion' started by Devastator21, Sep 30, 2017.

  1. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    Dremeled, now to clean up (in multiple senses of the word).
    23017FC8-821D-402C-AA8B-C514FA15FC08.jpeg 602A3DDD-4C69-46DC-BD4B-C52CEA3FFEA2.jpeg

    Not quite a factory sheen, but I did get the rail off pretty cleanly:
    9F767CBC-D123-4062-BCDD-3C84CB5D5952.jpeg

    (just in case the upper part of the rail was for "structural reinforcement" or something, I originally planned to just take off like 1mm of its height to try to increase the space----but comparing gaps to the toon-style chest etc, that wouldn't be quite enough, and trying to remove like 1.5mm
    would only leave a paper-thin section, so I just removed the upper section of the rail entirely, as that should give 2mm+ more clearance.

    (I found out the chest plate doesn't actually rest on the rails---or at least, it shouldn't, based on how the toon-style one works)

    Don't have combiner head back in, but everything fits so far:
    669BA032-AFBD-48D8-8386-F7FD9B35D3CC.jpeg



    And here you can see how the tip of the chest-wing-flap is right where the upper part of the rail was:
    20A25250-79E4-4D53-96D8-6D300AAB3D69.jpeg



    ::edit:: This is the other side/rail, may show it a bit better, how it sits a bit lower now, below the top edge of where the upper part of the rail used to be (the very front edge of the rail remains at full height---wanted to leave it for strength etc, and I knew the flaps didn't need the WHOLE length cleared, just like the rear 95% of it)
    CDBCCA26-990A-462E-99F3-661350D5611C.jpeg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 12, 2021
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  2. Tiller

    Tiller I don't know nothin'

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    Same problem with mine as I've just found out. It's not a big deal but I do notice it.

    EDIT:

    Is there a way to fix the latching mechanism on Incursus for Impetus's side? If I don't hold it down when twisting the ratchet he tends to pop off. I know that was an issue with Incursus v1, but it appears the reissue is doing the same thing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2021
  3. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    All back together, nice and tight now:
    FA20E1F6-C8E5-48BF-884D-83227ECC50C8.jpeg
     
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  4. Magna Jet Convoy

    Magna Jet Convoy Well-Known Member

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    Brilliant work @David Hingtgen . How did you manage to file/machine that rail off without touching or damaging the surrounding area?
     
  5. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    About 90-95% of it was using a ball-cutter tip on a Dremel:
    [​IMG]

    And about as slow as it'll go. Many light passes. The final remnants were X-Acto and sanding-stick for clean-up.

    I mainly cut from the side of the rail, but now that I've done it, I do believe my earlier plan would work----to file down the top section of the rail, only making it thinner instead of removing it entirely. I think removing half the height of the upper rail would give enough room. That could be done with a small file or sanding stick.
     
  6. Destron1

    Destron1 Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry for being clueless, but what exactly is it that you did/achieved with these alterations?
    Have only transformed mine twice, so not sure what's happening.
     
  7. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    Being able to fully close the back-plate, with the toy-version silver chest installed, like the toon-version could. Comparison of the two chest-plates before the mod:
    0E8F115A-7594-4928-A52D-56DDC49814F3.jpeg 4133E53F-982F-430A-B571-8224A4B03DC9.jpeg

    Now I can fully close it with either chest installed.
     
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  8. Destron1

    Destron1 Well-Known Member

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    Ah, I see.
    I prefer the toon version so never bothered.
     
  9. RailRacer97

    RailRacer97 Active Member

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    I just got my ratchet disassembled, Where is it that I apply the oil at to make it less stiff? Here's an image.
     

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  10. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    It'll spread around so exactly where you place it isn't critical, but I would focus on "the outside and inside, of the blue part that is still sitting in the shoulder". From what I could tell from mine, there was a lot of friction on that piece, preventing it from moving up and down freely, which basically "locked" the spring in place, making the ratchet only semi-functional. Lubing it so it could move up and down freely, frees the spring to move so the ratchet can function as intended. The "teeth" will automatically get oiled from the oil spreading around. A tiny micro-drop on the teeth themselves would be ok, if you want to be certain they're oiled "immediately upon re-assembly". But just oil like 1 or 2 teeth, on opposites sides of the "ring", it'll spread around to the others instantly as it's rotated. Excess oil is bad.

    Very good advice I live by---when oiling anything small like this, "even a drop is too much, you want at most a drp". 1 whole drop will flood the whole assembly. Put like a drop on a toothpick---the toothpick will absorb much of the oil, leaving you a tiny little mini-drop-----a drp. Use that.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2021
  11. samisham

    samisham Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if that's the reason there hasn't been any talk of an upgrade kit reissue, it needs to be redesigned to work with Onslaught out of the box.
     
  12. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    Onslaught should be modified, not the upgrade kit. The "rails" seem to have no function, other than to get in the way of the toy-style chestplate. Altering the chest plate to fit Onslaught better, would alter its appearance. Whereas slimming down (or removing) the upper rail is invisible in all modes.
     
  13. samisham

    samisham Well-Known Member

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    Showz got some surprise Swindle stock so I'm now at three down and two to go.

    I agree, but how? Is this something every owner who wants the toy chest should be expected to do on their own? Or should MMC/OC somehow fix it?
     
  14. BIOMEC

    BIOMEC Terrorcon, aka "Ratchetman"

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    On the toothed circular plate as David said.
     
  15. Magna Jet Convoy

    Magna Jet Convoy Well-Known Member

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    Did some research on the Dremel. Reminds me of a Die Grinder back in my previous life as a Toolmaker. Must get around to purchasing one with all the accessory bits when I get some cash. My hands aren't as steady as they were 30 years ago unfortunately :-(
     
  16. daimchoc

    daimchoc TFW2005 Supporter

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    You don't have to use a dremel. Just use any cutting tool - sharp knife or sandpaper. Also, if there are cheaper options to a dremel. There are other branded/unbranded rotary tools available.

    example:
    https://www.amazon.com/ChewSteel-Tools-3-6V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B07T5DPSCF
     
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  17. David Hingtgen

    David Hingtgen Chromaticon

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    Having actually done it, and comparing where the chest plate now sits----simply using a small modeling file or sanding stick/emory board, and thinning down the top of the upper rail, should be plenty. Totally removing the upper rail isn't needed.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    A dremel just made it go quicker and I was certain "I'd have removed enough the first time". But I was very worried about losing control... (power tools and toys are a scary mix!)

    ::edit:: The one daimchoc posted may actually work better than a real Dremel---that one is much smaller and lighter than mine, and should be much easier to handle in small spaces. Not carving wood or metal, so no need for the high-power ones.
     
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  18. Fans Toys MMC Collector

    Fans Toys MMC Collector Member

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  19. Magna Jet Convoy

    Magna Jet Convoy Well-Known Member

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    Are any of the designers/engineer's @LazyAza etc. able to explain the original purpose of that rail that @David Hingtgen has just machined off? Must of been there for some reason.... perhaps as reinforcement to strengthen the panel itself?
     
  20. LazyAza

    LazyAza MMC color go brrrr

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    Probably not they don't post on TFW like we do. I'm sure the rail is there to add to structural integrity though. A lot of plastic parts get made with additional brace points just so on the off chance they're getting flexed or pulled the wrong area isn't getting pressure put on it. Or the engineer just concluded their might have been a problem otherwise and its better to play it safe.
     
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