Let's see your Gundams

Discussion in 'The Toyark' started by agesthreeandup, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. Junkmech

    Junkmech Mouthplate Enthusiast

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    Yeah, the actual product doesn't interest me at all but the brand is really funny.

    Anyway, that's a good idea! I was just freehanding it for funsies here, though it does look a bit rough on the skirt boxes. I'm using a Dremel to really bore the holes, but maybe making a starting indent with one of my hand drills is a good way to set guides.
     
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  2. Fr33domgundam

    Fr33domgundam Well-Known Member

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    Yup!
    A Dremel is probably overkill for this; if you had a pin vise with some drill bits, or some dedicated hobby hand-drills, it would give you much more control/precision without any risk of tearing out the edges of the holes you're adding.
     
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  3. Junkmech

    Junkmech Mouthplate Enthusiast

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    Yeah... You're absolutely right. I have a dedicated set of hobby hand-drills but I've been too lazy to learn how to really use 'em. Next time I work on a kit I'll really make an effort to use them.

    On my current "big project" kit (read: the one that I'm taking forever on) I'm using the Dremel to wear down edges to create some real wear and tear, but I'm not sure how much it'll pop once it's painted.
     
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  4. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall Whiskey Powered Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    Best way to guarantee the colors are going to Pop is you put some metal paint on those roughed edges. Do a wash around it with some black and brown paints and you can make it look like it's burnt scarring.
     
  5. Junkmech

    Junkmech Mouthplate Enthusiast

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    Yeah, that's what I was initially planning. My issue is that once I start weathering I really, really struggle to stop.
    20210713_125927.jpg

    I wanted this next piece to be a bit more subtle than previous endeavors, but then I went and basically ground off every hard edge. Sabotaging myself!

    While I'm asking - Now that I can modulate pressure on my airbrush, I was thinking I could try shading, but I also don't want to ruin anything. Anyone got any advice on that? I know @Fr33domgundam is a pro at it.
     
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  6. doomtron

    doomtron Hunter

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  7. Fr33domgundam

    Fr33domgundam Well-Known Member

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    I am... not a pro at shading. I don't normally shade my kits, because I like them looking factory-fresh. :D 
    @anubis20 is definitely much more experienced at shading than I am.
    Years ago I used this guide as reference:
    Layman's Gunpla Guide - Pre-Shading Tutorial | Otaku Revolution

    ---===---

    Snap-fitting of the F90II is coming along nicely.

    [​IMG]

    It's a little bizarre for me at the moment not having polycaps in the kit; I haven't really built anything recent enough to not have polycaps.
    The waist-part as a whole has a lot of parts, surprisingly.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2021
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  8. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall Whiskey Powered Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    Note to self: never use cheap rattle can satin clear coat enamel ever again. ..

    20210713_173252.jpg

    Made the mistake of thinking I should just go ahead and put a clear coat on this. I didn't take into account how inefficient the stuff I was using would be.

    Aside from having absolutely no control over the coverage, it dried unevenly. Fortunately I still had a can of Testors matte coat with enough life in it to correct the mistake.

    20210713_175807.jpg

    Fixed forever.
    I mean it's not going into any big display and just going to be used on my bench, but even I can't stand staring it terrible work.
     
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  9. YellowCorvette

    YellowCorvette Gundam & Micron Densetsu Enthusiast

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    I've ordered the P-Bandai Sword and Launcher Striker packs expansion set from Taobao:

    [​IMG]

    I'm still wasn't a big fan of how Bandai seemingly just reused the Sword and Launcher parts from the old MG Sword/Launcher Strike from 2007 for this expansion set, but ordering it from Taobao for a lower price (with shipping included) does sound like a better idea than paying the inflated price from local hobby sellers.

    Since I've already built the MG Aile Strike Ver. RM, might as well go all out and get the parts required for assembling the Perfect Strike (Plus, the old MG Sword/Launcher Strike from 2007 hasn't been reprinted for years)
     
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  10. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall Whiskey Powered Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    The System Base is done. I rigged it in the semi-permanent mode of the larger 1:144 configuration. I could collapse it depending on the kit size, but I don't want to ruin the paint and the two *one too thick* layers of clear coat.

    20210713_201916.jpg

    I don't count this, or any base plates as 'Gunpla' in my build records, so it's just an extra bit of work that goes along with everything I build from here on.

    The product description for it suggests it's for 1:144 scale kits, but like this it does fit well enough for 1:100 scale too.

    20210713_210649.jpg

    ... although it might not be so cozy for anything circa UC0088 to UC0105.

    Meanwhile back in 1:144 scale, it's like I said before about being configured for larger kits. My RG GP01 feels... diminished by the size of it.

    20210713_210800.jpg
    The base will be just fine for the Nu Gundam(s).

    Back to work on that tonight, I was mostly painting over the parts I had prepped earlier. Loosely trimmed and paired the knees so I could paint cables on the back, and I had an idea.

    20210713_221610.jpg

    The cables are painted in my Gunmetal/Gunship Gray mixed with my "Trans-Am" metallic gray. I lightly coated the links in silver because I wanted to get the idea for how they will look on the normal color version of this kit.

    20210713_234844.jpg

    For the Clear kit, I will stick with gold. Then it was back to work on the feet pads. I primed these parts last night and set about filling in the colors.

    I'm painting some of the prominent details on the inner frame that will shine through the clear parts, especially through the crystal clear blue parts.

    20210713_234514.jpg

    One thought I originally had about the feet pads was to paint those two toe tips in gold, but I opted for silver because there is the gold toe claw to install in the center.
     
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  11. Junkmech

    Junkmech Mouthplate Enthusiast

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    Seeing your photos of the base, I decided to order one for myself. Might paint it up all fancy for funsies, but it's probably gonna serve as a like, bottle holder probably a lot of the time lmao.
     
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  12. LigerPrime

    LigerPrime Well-Known Member

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    Yup, it has happened to 1-2 of my MG Zaku IIs...I noticed that the joints were becoming floppy...arghhh. Since then I decided to paint (just add a dab of gray paint) the joints of the inner frame to tighten the joints...I haven't fully painted any of my kits in years thoough.
     
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  13. X-Arachnis

    X-Arachnis Well-Known Member

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    Aaand another GM for the army...:cool:  IMG_20210713_224516_1.jpg
     
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  14. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall Whiskey Powered Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    Repeat after me: "This is what clear kits are made for."

    20210714_173417.jpg

    I'm setting up to assemble but there's a lot of details getting painted in the in-between areas. There's more I want to do but for now just starting the silver layers.
     
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  15. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Dukeup Nukhead

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    Ambroid O-Scale Payroll Car Part 21 - Deco

    And now, to see a dream realized. With everything glued down, the time had come to fully prepare the still unpainted parts with primer.

    [​IMG]

    For the most part, it went without a hitch.

    [​IMG]

    Well, almost. Removing the masking tape did considerable damage as it had been sitting on the body for a long time. This is just one fourth of the car but it looked like this on all sides, more the long sides than the end pieces.

    [​IMG]

    Some creative light sanding and repainting did make all the damage vanish. It was almost a shame since I don't want this car to look weathered and this looked like a GREAT way to model old painted wood. Might try this on another project in the future. I also painted the underside and the steps black while I was repairing the damaged sides.

    [​IMG]

    Moving on, I discovered to my horror that I'd miscalculated how many "O" letters I would need. The set only had four...and I needed six. Of course, a zero in certain fonts awfully could pass for an O...and that's exactly what I did.

    [​IMG]

    I think the end result turned out well.

    [​IMG]

    All that was left was a final coat of Dullcote to kill the shine on the decals and seal it all up.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. joncbenn

    joncbenn Groovy

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    Barbatos is done! 25DF3396-A04F-4738-85B9-6A7CB9FD9F74.jpeg Great kit. Bandai needs to make more MG IBO kits.

    I just opened up Wing Zero Ver Kai and feel super intimidated just looking at all the runners. I may have to hold back on it and do a few HG kits first.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2021
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  17. Hadlen_Weltall

    Hadlen_Weltall Whiskey Powered Mad Genius Gunpla and Cow Master

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    The work so far tonight, most of the silver is on and I began mapping out more of the gold. I have some minor corrections to make because some dust bits got into the paint in the pan dried and flaked onto the brush. Typical. Aside from that, I painted over areas I didn't prime that I will have to give another coat over.

    20210714_235303.jpg

    This applies to both legs, which I just loosely snapped components together to fit on my parts holders.
     
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  18. X-Arachnis

    X-Arachnis Well-Known Member

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    Wow... That is going to be a LOT of work, especially if I want to retrace everything on styrene sheet....:redface2:  but.... The end result should be something I can display an Ingram on....:cool: 
    IMG_20210714_224737.jpg
     
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  19. anubis20

    anubis20 Well-Known Member

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    While I wait for my replacement compressor, I got around to cleaning more empty paint bottles for mixing. Im up to around 30 empty clean bottles and have another 15 to clean up. Its too many so I can probably give some away if you guys need any. I use about 5-8 per build and when I’m done I clean them out unless its a big batch of paint. I don't usually keep any of the custom mixes.

    113A0670-BE21-4E8E-9CA1-3F6720850ED4.jpeg
     
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  20. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Be strong enough to be gentle

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    “And the pants were dead.”

    1FE93E39-461F-47EE-A921-1BBCA2982944.jpeg

    Not sure how well this photo shows it, but the white plastics on the RG Wing are exceptionally crisp and sharp. No softness or transparency whatsoever, I honestly thought it was prepainted at first.
     
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