Yes, it was available through their store but I don't see it listed anymore. A few of our group already bought it from them. - I was planning on doing the enamel detailing work last but getting to those molded ankle pistons wouldn't be easy to get to by then. the joint plates though was just because I was already busy. It's copper, not gold, I'm keeping it similar to how I detailed the Rx78 Gunboy. I'm not doing to it like I am Sazabi V. Nu level of extensive metallic details, but just the simple touches like this.
Yep, I got mine from them. And like Hadlen said, I'm not seeing it on their site anymore but a few sites like BBTS and USA Gundam Store have preorders open for the second batch in April.
Road tripped to toy dojo yesterday they still got G40 for anyone looking also barbatos but I will get that next month
Yup, no harm at all. Just yo add if I recall correctly the weakest to strongest paints would be enamel, acrylic and liquor. That how some techniques like a reverse wash is done. Hadlen is correct : the main issue is thinner. MrColour thinner for liquor paints can be a “killer” on plastic. Oh man, I wished I asked this question years ago. I ruined an old kit by using too much thinner... Whoa! Its out?! Looks amazing! Nice work!
The in-universe Gundam movie in 00 was amazing, you can't change my mind. I don't remember if there are any pronged bells in the Wave sets, I'll have to look in my tub when I get back in the office. Koto has some in one or two of their MSG sets, but they might be too small.
i work with TAMIYA COLOR exclusively, and, being water-based ACRYLIC, i've found that i do not even need to mess with specialized thinners at all, merely garden-variety 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. really, i've been using it for years now, and it generally makes achieving clean, precise results EASY. for example, when detailing recessed detail, any spillover, -even after thoroughly dry- can be effortlessly wicked away with a swatch of paper towel, -or, a Q-Tip- lightly doused in the alcohol. it also works supremely as a general thinner, bringing a thick paint right down to loose, easily-workable consistency. i get mine from WAL-MART, and it WORKS... with Iso Alcohol-aided techniques, i can even achieve smooth, delicate Bisque-Porcelain-like lip detail on my 1/6 Character Dolls;
I'll look around at the Wave parts anyway when I go to get my parts. I've got some Koto nozzles I originally bought for RG Sazabi, which I ended up not using because I learned to get good at seperating the ones connected by ribs.
Oh? I haven’t tried Tamiya acrylics before as I mostly use rattle cans (liquor paints) after my air brush went bust years ago. Some of my buddies and I don’t have a good experience with the Tamiya rattle cans...some of the colours give that sticky feeling even after 1-2 days of drying and airing. Normally Liquor paints dry quite fasr Even stranger was that this was only with certain colours.
Finally finished building my MG Jesta, and despite some shortcomings, it's a pretty solid kit all around. Despite not being the flashiest kit ever, the MG Jesta here does look quite nice and I do like the "Special-Ops Cop" look of this design. The "Perfect-Grade" style hands that came with this kit while awesome in theory, but in practice, they're a bit more delicate than I would like as some of the parts on the hands can pop out easily; I can definitely see why Bandai decided to went with the swappable fixed posed fingers style hands that come with the MG AGE, SEED and Wing kits with most of the current MG UC grunt MS kits nowadays. One thing that I do love about this particular kit, however, is that despite the bulky armor on the lower legs, the inner frame was designed in a way that allows the bulky lower legs to be pulled downwards to allow a greater range of motion at the knees; Which is a pretty nice attention to detail by Bandai.
Here I go again!!! Originally I used the eye that comes with the kit and put an MS sight lens ring around it, but I decided to make a switch. This mean cutting off the original eye at its post, and then picking the right size Koto round plate. Then for good measure, a dome lens.. This actually works so much better than my original idea because now it seats properly, and accomplishes the look I wanted and won't be obscured behind the clear visor. On a side note, I contacted HiQ Parts directly. The pack of lenses has their website and email address on it, so I snapped a picture of the label and sent it asking about them.. Sadly though, their prompt, partially translated response was expected: "Unfortunately we already discontinued this items. Reason,manufacture process is not stability really. Process make huge defective products. Please understand." Bummer... So, I went to HLJ and purchased a couple packs of the Wave Eyes. On the flip side, I still have plenty of the parts. I bought two packs of them originally and had one sandwiched between the backer cards in one bag. Which is why I'm saving the smaller ones for Mobile Suits that deserve them. I'll use the Wave lenses for sight pieces. In the meantime, I'm trying out the "Formula 560" Canopy Glue I bought for setting the sensor parts on the Hazels. It goes on white like classic Elmers Glue, and is supposed to dry clear. The drawback is it needs 24 hours to cure completely, but so far it's working. I know this because I painted the plates underneath the clear parts with silver enamel and I'm starting to see the color return to it.
Thank you! He's been out for a while now since some American vendors broke the release date in early December. I had to wait until January until mine arrived in Germany.
I looks like the GP01 and Build Strike had a baby. If the price is right I might seriously bite, it's got a lot of interesting design traits.
FIXED^^ Hopefully they're not teasing us, but BlueFin has been keeping up with making Wing their default US Exclusive.
Ok! In my most if not all of the model kit stores in my country, the kit was fully PO-ed. Subsequent re-stocks kept selling out. I need to check out reviews before buying it as I have alot of backlog. How do you find the kit? Is it “sturdy” and there’s no loose bits and pieces?
Nah, the Astray predecessor of the G-Unit suits is the Griepe. Lean, slender limbs, minimal skirt armour, and it has a similar head design, with the extended visor brim on the helmet.
I'd have to do some serious scouring to figure out what that is. Old SD kits are numerous and sometimes hard to identify because their source design and manufacture date are hard to determine. And a lot of those more extravagant redesigns aren't even named based on the Gundam they take design cues from. That one in particular looks like it's based on the Gundam Double-X.
