Let's see your Gundams

Discussion in 'The Toyark' started by agesthreeandup, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. Sponge

    Sponge Herald of Unicron

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    I guess you missed my post, You can still add spoilers, and cutting up quotes is easier than ever

    Just click for an explanation

     
  2. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Droppin' Space Colonies

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    You did? Sorry, must have missed it entirely.
     
  3. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP My personal sense of scale

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    So I'm thinking, now that I have MG Unicorn, of skipping or holding off on the RG Sinanju and just going for the MG. Since now I know how to handle that cursed gold trim from my failures on the HG. It's huge, too. The Unicorn's pretty damn tall, and the Sinanju is even taller and bulkier.

    Too bad they weren't as easily labeled, I coulda used that the other day. :lol  Though ironically I had to click that like four times just to get the image up.

    Also I find I miss lots of posts in this new layout and I don't know why.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
  4. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Droppin' Space Colonies

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    Day 2 of The Balls To The Wall Project

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    Today's key discovery was, somehow, my total lack of noticing that the side thrusters for the Sharkmouth Ball are the three normal types from the standard ball - not pleasing since my paint basis for detailing is the MG Sharkmouth Ball which simply is the Type K down to those squared off booster pairs. Then I decided fuck it and I'm going to paint it like the MG anyway, adapting as I go along. Started with the black interiors, while also using a slightly darker gray (slate gray) watered down for the first coating in the Sharkmouth's cockpit. Then I painted the chair in the Type K and it looks really nice.

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    Test fitting the windows to check just how much is visible in the hole.

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    Went heavy on the gray application and other such things. The side booster interior walls were painted red - need another coat to bring them out more - and then the flat surface at the top was painted in 'neutral' gray to make them seem more impressive in size. The chin verniers on the lower left received the same pattern of paint though I screwed one up and need to fix it later. The Sharkmouth Ball I decided to combine the suggestions of Hadlen and MinerEdgar and the main pallete is the gray and brown, while the inside ring is a bright yellow-green (this same ring on the Type K is merely the neutral gray to compliment the orange from the inside). The brown on the chair is the same as the Type K's chair - Americana 'Mississippi Mud' - and was a bit rushed but I wanted to get it in so Hadlen could see his idea in execution. There also is a bit of extreme detailing I put into the back of the cockpits to make them look better with depth but I'll wait until I clean the interiors up before showing those off.

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    I also detailed the tips of the 'cross' forehead boosters (red cowling, black barrel) and painted up the larger thruster cowlings or whatever they're called in neutral gray to look more realistic and in line with the side boosters in lieu of the stock color which would look cheap given what work I've poured into this already. I may eventually whip out my weathering powder to simulate scorching on the interiors for accent highlighting.
     
  5. areaseven

    areaseven Live to Win

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    Some group shots.

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    Team Argama

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    The Legacy of the Red Comet
     
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  6. Sinestro00

    Sinestro00 Engineer of the Pandemocalypse

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    Awesome!
     
  7. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Droppin' Space Colonies

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    I've solved the weird problem regarding the Sharkmouth Ball being inconsistently depicted between the various media depictions and how the MG Sharkmouth doesn't match the HG Sharkmouth's physical parts in some places - which has been making trying to paint the HG Sharkmouth correctly a real pain in the ass given I was trying to use the MG for the color pattern. And that's because what the 'K' in the 'Type K' actually means.

    Ver. Ka. - note the boxy side booster pair.
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    As you can see in the box art, apparently the only key difference between the Type K (MS 08th) and the non-Ver Ka (the IGLOO version) is the presence or lack thereof regarding a third booster on either side, because ignoring the 'off road' extras what I was under the impression of previously as the key difference between the Type K and other model Balls was the extra pair of arms, hence my preference for calling the Sharkmouth a Type K even though the box does not.

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    And because I didn't know this beforehand, the MG Sharkmouth is in fact the wrong model as it is a straight up Ver Ka MG repaint - again, note the side boosters.
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    Honestly I would have expected Bandai to have come up with some new variant to mitigate this problem since obviously the original Ball pods only have TWO arms. But I guess the Ver. Ka is now actually the standard Ball type somehow given they tend to HAVE four arms in recent media no matter what despite even in Build Fighters, the HG kit is only capable of having two without scratchbuilding a replica set of the P-Bandai arms.
     
  8. MatrixOfWumbo

    MatrixOfWumbo I see you

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    Thanks for sharing! Ice only seen one review so far (he wasn't impressed by the quality of the gold plastic) buy I'm glad there's a positive one too. I'll be on the lookout for when this hits 16 dollars or so.
     
  9. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Droppin' Space Colonies

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    Balls Busting Day 3:

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    Despite finally figuring out the MG Sharkmouth is the less accurate version, I've opted to keep using it as much as I can because frankly it still is the more interesting scheme. The red bars also happen to be their own pieces so they can be removed and painted without worrying about cleanup on the main gun body.

    I also finally fixed the lights on the upper bar for the Type K to the light blue. Could be a shade lighter I think but honestly I'd waste more paint in trying to mix that match than just using something I already have in a bottle.

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    Finally finished these cockpits - I realized there are tiny gaps in the back that I could put gray into and create the illusion of depth inside. The bright yellow-green on the Sharkmouth is barely even noticeable straight on.

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    Painted the chin bar on the Sharkmouth red, as is proper, and worked my butt off on painting the thrusters of both Balls the right base color. Someday, I wonder if Bandai will make thrusters be cast in the color they are on the inside, so only the outside needs to be painted.

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    Another cockpit porthole test fit - looks extremely good in my opinion, the gray bits really are the stars here.

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    Preparing the parts for the first Dullcote matte seal application. I'm isolating the spray only onto the painted areas in order to prevent the matte from being noticably uneven down the line when I apply the coating over all the parts.

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    The Ball stands also make for great painting stands for the gun.
     
  10. areaseven

    areaseven Live to Win

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    Finally got around to decaling and topcoating my HGUC ZII.

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    Here's the ZII with parents RG Zeta Gundam and HGUC Methuss.

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    Here are the other members of the Z Family.

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    Size comparison with the RG RX-78-2 Gundam and the HGUC Byarlant Custom.

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    And finally, inspired by Kakarot197, a size comparison with the GM Custom and the always bulky Zaku III. "And that's all for this review, and see you guys next time."
     
  11. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Droppin' Space Colonies

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    What do you use for topcoat? That ZII is looking fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine!
     
  12. Slave IV

    Slave IV more wealth than you can imagine!

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    Do most people typically paint parts while still attached to the sprues? If so, do you just touch it up where you cut them? I'm wondering what the best way to spray a bunch of parts is. Removing them all seems to be the best way to get full coverage and not have to try to touch up but then it leaves a mess of parts to identify unless you are able to keep them all in some order.
     
  13. areaseven

    areaseven Live to Win

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    I used Mr. Super Clear UV Cut Gloss. Despite being a gloss topcoat, it gives off more of a satin finish.
     
  14. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    "Cut Gloss" sounds more like it's meant to reduce gloss.
     
  15. dgold93

    dgold93 Rainmaker

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    Built the HG Origin RX78 Local Type yesterday. So far loving it, but it's plan as a piece of paper. It's gonna need a lot of work to get it to look the way it should.
     
  16. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP My personal sense of scale

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    Managed to fix the wobbly shoulder on my Unicorn by laying a piece of the foil sticker sheet on top of the rail. Barely wobbles anymore, and for all I know another layer of sticker may cease the wobble all together. Will definitely try to be more careful building the Banshee if/when I get it.
     
  17. areaseven

    areaseven Live to Win

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    Picked up the HGBF ZZII yesterday and just finished decaling and topcoating it. Compared to the ZII, the joints are tighter, but you'll need to glue the white forearm pieces, as there's hardly anything supporting them. Despite the awkward design, the feet have no problem supporting the whole body. The transformation is basically the same as the ZII, with just a few extra parts gimmicks.

    As this is a remold, there are excess parts as expected. Among these is the Zeta Beam Rifle; unfortunately, you don't get the handle for it. In addition, you can assemble the heels of the original kit, but you can't use them here, as the ZZII's foot guards have no articulation and will always be pointing downward.

    As for the livery, I chose Londo Bell instead of A.E.U.G to depict it as having been used between Char's Counterattack and Gundam Unicorn. For this, I ended up using five different Gundam Decal sheets for the various markings.

    Overall, the ZZII is a great kit for those who love Zeta-based designs.

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    Both ZII and ZZII in Wave Rider mode.

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    Here's the size comparison with the ZIIin MS mode.

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    Size comparison with the RG Zeta Gundam and HGBF Lightning Zeta Gundam.

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    Size comparison with the HGUC RX-78-2 Gundam [Revive] and Byarlant Custom.

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    Here's the updated Z Family.

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    And finally, inspired by Kakarot197, a size comparison with the GM Custom and the always bulky Zaku III. "And that's all for this review, and see you guys next time."
     
  18. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout Droppin' Space Colonies

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    ^ Epic! Though I must admit while the ZZII looks much better in MS mode compared to the ZII's giant tower of backpack kibble, the ZZII's heels are vastly inferior and stupid looking in my opinion, and the ZII's slightly more gray head and limbs look much nicer with all that blue than the bone white of the ZZII. Of course, you don't have that problem - you just have both anyway!

    And here's the current update for the Balls Project: Day 4

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    I decided to paint the outer ring of the MS 08th Ball's thrusters black to cover the messy excess from my red paintjob. Looks nicer and while the four small thrusters actually won't be used, I had excess paint on my brush so why the hell not do them too?

    At this point, I moved onto the biggest part of the entire project, any time I make Gunpla - my panel line wash. It's nothing too complex, effectively a 50/50 mix of water and cheap craft paint (water base acrylics) of black, with drops of light gray and a pale brown. Several of the following pics will show pieces where the left side is untouched while the right has my combined panel line/weathering mixture applied to show the impact one application makes.

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    Strangely the paint REALLY did not like sticking in the panel lines on the top piece, don't know why.

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    The front half was much nicer, though. Also, I decided to just skip trying to put black lining inside the cockpit, almost all effort up to this point has been devoted to making those things look as nice as they are and the blackwash could easily ruin everything.

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    On the headlamp bar, the blackwash catching the mottled surface of the blue paint actually really works toward the illusion of the ridged face of a large heavy duty bulb face (the actual surface for that detail is smooth).

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    Switching up here, the left side is the blackwashed parts while the right side is the stock plastic. As a side note, I also did paint the 'feet' pads of the balls at some point but didn't really take pictures of it since they're boring on their own.

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    I left one Thruster inside untouched - I think it should be obvious which one.

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    Same story, but it might actually be hard to tell which one I didn't darken due to the photo quality - it's the one on the bottom right.

    Due to the nature of blackwashing, I ended up getting carried away and assembled most of the Type K - except the arms because my wash mixture is too gray and didn't show up all that well (they'll be done with a mix with more black paint later) - but since the weapon mount and the ball socket arms are interchangable between the two balls...

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    ...said nobody ever :lol 

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    And here's the Type K looking somewhat more accurate - the cable reel piece got damaged when the sprue somehow scraped off part of the front lip when the piece was removed, so that'll be fixed - and I have to say I am extremely pleased how well it has come along every step of the way. The guns are more or less going to be the final component assembled for this ball, due to needing to paint in the green optical sensors (seriously, not even the original Twin Ball kit had these, let alone any stickers despite being far more a detail-nuanced build than the bloody D50-C Twin Lotos which had sucktastic stickers) and a minor degree of partswapping with the unused twin cannon pieces from the Sharkmouth's bits.

    However, this now brings me to the most confusing part of the build: that dumbass sharkmouth decal.
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    Here I've positioned the cockpit hatch piece approximately where the sharkmouth will go over it - the lowest point the top 'lip' goes is edge-to-edge with the maroon circle inside said panel - so obviously the panel must be in place with the cockpit window before the mouth goes on (as well as the lower bar as that's how I intend to try and even center the bloody thing). However, while the simple solution would be to just do all that and then matte spray the crap out of the sticker to blend it in, then do my panel line wash over it...the window being significantly recessed like that makes it extremely risky even if I try to put masking tape over it, due to how close the mouth sticker gets and putting tape over the mouth at any point of the edge renders the entire reason for matte spray null and void.

    And just to clarify, this is not a waterslide or a dry rub - it's the stock crap (though unlike shitshows like the stickers for the HG Zudah and HG Advanced Hazel, these are actually cut to usable margins and not stupidly huge margins larger than the actual surface the sticker goes on).

    The alternative is to simply assemble the ball, panel line, etc. and the very last thing done is put the shark mouth on and NOT spray it with matte, but there I don't know how transparent the shark mouth will be that it may show the black lines underneath it which would look rather stupid given it's supposed to be painted on the metal surface itself and not the sticker it physically is (side note: the black line around the lower right of the ball face is part separation, not paint). Naturally the MG Sharkmouth offers no advice since that simply cut the mouth up into a billion pieces to avoid this exact issue altogether, whereas no online review of the P-Bandai Twin Ball set offers any insight to a solution as almost all of those DIDN'T do more than a stock straight build.

    So, since we have experts here, I'm going to ask how...you guys would solve this problem?
     
  19. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP My personal sense of scale

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    Yeah, the ZZII's heels are a poor attempt at adding height. They just make the legs look ridiculous, since unlike the arms which are actually lengthened, it still look like it has proportionally smaller legs, just with giant prong feet.

    Not sure why they thought it needed so much added height?
     
  20. areaseven

    areaseven Live to Win

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    Because Gunpla Is Freedom!

    To be a bit more specific, the ZZII is just another example of Minato Sakai's artistic skills in his own Gunpla, following the Tryon 3 and Super Fumina. His philosophy of form over function is exactly what makes him and Yuuma Kousaka polar opposites and perfect rivals.