Has to be the fastest Showz ever been.
Anyways, he has a good heft to him. Added sculpt is nice as well.

Here he is with his little bro and lil baby bro lol. View attachment 29747192

 

Thank you so much for this great guide!

 

I cut a groove into each shoulder lad to mount the missile pods:

 

I'll keep the thread updated on the progress

 

Its also why, as in another video that was posted in this thread, the top of the cab doesnt really close.

 

On the original you could fit them in the back of his legs. On the KO, the tabs on the missile pods are too big

 

I believe my crappy video is the only english one for now?

It only shows comparisons with BMB LS03F, Megatron and Energy heart (evasion mode Oversized)
but maybe it helps someone.

 

This is sweet!

 

Just got him in! ShowZ shipping keeps getting faster and faster!

He's a big boy. Heavier than the UT figure. The added sculpting details look really good on this guy. There are a couple places the sculpting appears to be a little shallower than on the original (I.E. the face and upper back behind the head), but nothing as noticeable as say on the Peru Kill KO's and the latest Bumble Bee KO. Overall, sculpting has been improved.

Most of the paint apps are the same with a few extra being added to the KO. Really like the painted hands, knee joints, and hip tubes that were left unpainted on the UT figure. One paint app that the KO doesn't have is the "shading" that the UT figure has on the chest. I think that shading added some nice depth to the chest. Without it, the KO doesn't look bad, just cleaner.

Joints feel great. Bicep swivels are much smoother and not as right compare to the UT figure. Finger are easy to articulate and his ankles are super stable now with the added piece that folder in under them. I'd have to deliberately push him over for him to fall now. His diecast hip joints are surprisingly easy to move. I don't feel like I am damaging the metal teeth when I move his legs around and they are stable and hold a pose just fine. Over all, the KO is much easier to manipulate, but not floppy at all. I suspect this may help with his sharper bits as less effort will need to be exerted when transforming him.

Plastic feels great. Comparable to UT's. I don't find it lacking at all.

Really nice figure. There wasn't a lot to improve on from the UT figure, but the little things they added go a long way. If you don't have the UT figure, this is a great opportunity to get a really nice Galvatron figure.

 

judging by everyone’s feedback looks to be a solid ko will order soon

 

he is indeed awesome.. I recommend one

 

I just received mine. Anyone talked about this part yet? It looks like they added a tab for truck mode that will now make it impossible to tab it on the right arm in bot mode unless you want the arm to be always flexed.



Also anyone know what type of batteries this guy takes?

 

Seems like its not needed!
Put the fingers like this


and put the cannon on with the slotted tabs over the fingers and top of his hand (so 90 degrees from what it was on the original UT)
Fits tight!

 

I've tried that, but I couldn't get it to be very secure.

Also, I tweaked the slots in the sides of the cannon to attach the missile pods.



The wrist is a bit weak to support it though.

 

Might just be one of my favorite KO's ever. No glaring issues aside from having to reverse one of the shoulder ratchets. Well built and paint is fine. I initially started on a V2 repaint on the original Nero but I might just have to halt that one. This one's next on the table after I'm finally done with Desperado.



Well, I love him... can't say the same counts for The Slayer.

 

Gotten this last week and finally has time to mess with it. Since this is an upscale KO of UT Nero, will focus mainly on the differences vs UT

Alt Mode
No major differences in terms of scuplt and engineering in alt mode comparing to UT. The 3 differences that I noticed is the ball joint on the side panel housing the door. There's an additional rotating joint which make the rotation easier and this will greatly reduce the risk of scratching the paint like the original does. The 2nd differences is now there's a truck bed cover courtesy of the new add on piece for the ankle. Lastly, the 3rd changes is now There's a T-peg to hold the roof panel better.

Transformation on FL is slightly more tiring as the size is larger and heavier. Other than that, it's exactly the same as what you will experience with UT


Bot Mode
Like BS03, there's lot of scuplt details improvement on FL. But the differences here are not as significant as BS03 vs UT since Nero has quite a good scuplt details fr UT. The joint handling here is also much better compare to UT as UT one is very very stiff. The ankle add on piece is very helpful in the stability ans this make posing FL is way way better than UT


In terms of quality, the plastic used here is quite significantly improved over BS03 (though I have no issues with my BS03). The paint used on FL is bright silver as compare to the darker silver used in Nero. Personally I prefer the darker tone of UT as this will give us a better metal perception vs the plastic feel of FL's bright silver


In terms of headscuplt, I find it's details is not as good as UT. UT ones feel like a 4K resolution while FL is a 1080P.


Another thing that UT is doing better here is the wider range of movement on UT's head while you only get a very limited range of movement on FL. Here's the comparison shot (all comparison shot will be up / left = FL, bottom / right = UT)


Here's the changes in scuplt compared to UT that I manage to notice

Upper Body


Arms


Leg


Weapon
The scuplt on the weapon is also giving me the vibes like the headscuplt comparison. While FL's blaster has better color differentiation, the scuplt on FL is not as sharp as UT. There's no slot on the arm guard like UT and you can only rely on how you position FL's finger to hold the blaster securely on friction. Better becareful not to scratch the paint on the arm guard here as many people has theirs scratched when attaching the blaster


Some Posing


Scaling
Given the size of FL, it is now scaling better witht the rest of the OSKO Megatrons and BS03


Conclusion
While the amount of improvement here is not as significant as you get from BS03 vs UT Challenger, the plastic quality on FL has improved where you transform and pose it without fear of breaking it. The ankle add on piece is also built in and integrated into the transformation, unlike those waist filler on BS03. If you are a scale guy or yet to play with this mold, FL is definitely recommended.

 

Fantastic review! Thank you!

 

I just did this. Thanks! I own the UniqueToys Nero, and so when I got to this part of the transformation, I thought to myself, "I KNOW this part is supposed to twist, so...TWIST!" and I twisted it hard until it rotated. After disassembling it and shaving down the lip, I see how much stress I've been putting on the mushroom peg by forcing it to twist. You don't even need the lip to keep the roof kibble up in truck mode. Shaving off the lip is a must!

An easy workaround. I don't recommend shaving off the panel. It's quite useful in truck mode to hold the roof kibble together. When I want his arm to straighten, I simply untab that panel and open it up slightly, enough for the arm to straighten. The arm will never be perfectly straight. See the other arm. This is as straight as it gets.



Here's my totally optional, very easy, leg mod that you can do in ~2 minutes. It will dramatically reduce your frustration.

When transforming into robot mode, I was having a very hard time getting the sliding thigh panel to get high enough to clip in to become a leg.



Even when I push the panel hard enough so the spring is COMPLETELY compressed, there's not enough clearance for the sliding thigh panel to close. The spring is your enemy. The spring really serves no purpose other than to make your toy less fun. The spring has to go.



You'll need to push the pin out. If you're uncomfortable with removing pins, or if you don't have the equipment, that's ok, so am I. Lucky for us, the pin is so big, you don't need any special equipment. Get a suitably small screwdriver and push up on the pin from this angle.



Once you push the pin out enough from the bottom, things get easier. Get a flat screwdriver under the pin and push.

Best thing is, since it's a spring you're removing, you don't even need to remove the whole pin. Push the pin out just enough so you can compress and remove the spring.



After you remove the spring, use a flathead screwdriver to push the pin back into place.



And now the sliding thigh panel can take its place and join the rest of the leg. After you remove the spring, you'll see that it serves no purpose in either of the modes. Its only purpose was to frustrate you and make your toy less fun.

 

Thanks for this amazing review!