Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by myloschz, Dec 14, 2020.
Update looks good
This Is incredible.
I hate to be a meme-y doofus, but I am gonna f*cking KERMIT.
THIS LOOKS SO GODDANG AWESOME WTF?!!?
The transformation sequence looks so sleek, the design is on point, the printing and manipulation looks absolutely STUNNING- I keep saying 'what the f*ck' to myself under my breath, I am so stunned by the excellence, holy crap.
Wow thanks everyone! It is really nice to have a place to share these projects and not have people say "oh that's nice." and immediately change the subject. I have been making tweaks and am starting to print the updated parts. Not much to show, just some Blender shots.
I am not very familiar with comic stuff, so I didn't really notice the missile launcher thingies had steps in the panel lines. I also made the missile different so they can be printed yellow rather than just painted yellow.
This is the old
This is the new
I also increased the size of the pelvic loin sheet metal cloth there. It wasn't quite big enough in alt mode, but I didn't want to go too big for robit mode.
Also in the picture above you will notice that I did landing gear sort of. Due to the leg weight, the front wheel pops right off of the ground.
I tried having the two back wheels on the back of the pelvis, but did not like what it did. So I made a clip similar to the clip that is used on the stand arm with back wheels.
it is the little jobbie on the bottom left. It is small and sleek enough to be left on and not take away from the look too much, and doesnt interfere with transformation. Or you can put it on and take it off, or not print it at all. lol.
I don't really know, but I think this was just a picture of the front wheel. It is retractable.
I also thickened the wing and fixed a few tolerance issues in that area. Made the hip ratchet a bit more aggressive, and added tabs to hold the arms in place better in alt mode.
I just need to separate a few parts for color printing and I will be ready to jam!
Also very important. Any one printing in resin, please change your life forever and pick up a liter of MiniQ Nylon T-4. It has no wear against itself, is very hard, and not brittle. It prints at 1.8 sec/layer on my mono.
There is a video on their site that shows a ball joint on a drill just spinning in its socket with zero powdering or signs of wear. I picked some up and it is amazing. I just bought 2 more liters and I am trying to get The Fep Shop to carry it.
It is $80 a liter, but shipping is $30. It was the same for 1 or 2, so maybe buy in bulk. It prints really easy, which sometimes engineering resins do not. Dimensionally accurate and great detail. I'm just sayin'...
I have actually tried about every resin out there. This is going to be my go to for end use functional parts.
I know that I have a spotty record with finishing projects, but I am hoping to share the files. Any filament printing mates out there with a hankering to optimize the parts for fdm printing? Some of them seem like they would suck for fdm printing but I never really got the hang of the filament printers.
Hey I wanted to give you a shout out! I was lurking around on the radicons with no printer and no projects, and I came across all of your resin figures. It rekindled my interest in resin printing.
Your Whirl got me interested in the character design a bit more, because being an 80's G1 kid it did not fit "my formula" for a robot at all. I thought that the legs and feet where dumb and not realistic. Now I really do think that he is one of my favorite character designs.
Thanks! Your Hardshell was one of the projects that inspired me to try resin printing! What you’ve done there and here with Whirl is very impressive. How the legs hold the figure up and collapses as well translates Whirl from Comic to Figure perfectly! You’ve inspired me to start working on a Cyclonus now to maybe pair with your Whirl in the future!
Lucky for me then that I didn't reply before as I was literally about to say “nice” (or very nice) and then talk about my attempt to make an IDW Whirl as well as discussing using Blender for 3D printing Transformers.
But maybe you meant more general social media sites where the topic can change to all kinds of non-transformers stuff.
Either way, I'm impressed with what you have made here.
You have still finished more than me (not counting my Lego versions).
I don't know if I have the time but as I use both Blender and filamentI would be a good candidate to go over them. (If nothing else I'm very curious about how your files are organized and if you use any tricks I'm not aware of). I could even trade you the holo-avatar Whirl I'm working on. But if you haven't read the comics much you may not be interested. Also it's made in Blander 2.8 and I see in the pics you haven't upgraded yet.
Another option could be @Snaku who also uses Blender and filament. (but he might be just as busy)
Good luck with your projects.
It's been a long time since I've signed on, but I would be willing to refine it for FDM. The unfortunate thing about FDM is that post-processing is almost always needed, as the dimensions aren't 100% perfect, but with a little sanding, most parts can be functional.
epic, how can we get this, will sell the .stl?
I appreciate you thinking of me. I hadn't noticed this project before, mostly because I never got into IDW and have little interest in any of their characters/designs, but I gotta' say it's a damn good looking rendition.
I've done a lot of work in fdm and the biggest thing is that fdm printers just plain suck at overhangs. Any part with nothing under it is going to come out looking like crap, and fdm supports never come off cleanly enough (unless it's a large flat area with no detail to speak of). Best bet is to find an angle where all the details are facing upward and the bottom is completely flat. If that's not possible, having the bottom be a steep angle helps (supports will come off more cleanly but you'll still need to do some sanding) or, better yet, cut the piece in half so that the halves have flat bottoms.
The other major weakness of fdm is the fact that each layer is created and cooled separately which means the join from layer to layer is the weakest part. Any narrow rods and such will break ridiculously easily if they're printed vertically because of that narrow cross section - best to print them at as shallow an angle as you can get away with - parallel to the build plate if you can manage it.
Lastly, this is more an aesthetic thing than structural: fdm has that nasty "layer line" stepped effect (resin has it too but it's much straighter and more even while fdm, because each layer is "squished" onto the previous, gets a much nastier looking effect). This usually looks its worst on shallow angles - a nearly horizontal surfact at like 10-15 degrees is going to have some severe stepping - or on the top of rounded/spherical surfaces. Steep angles help to hide this (I usually print face sculpts at about a 50-60 degree angle because it takes advantage of the vertical detail from using the shortest layers possible, while still being horizontal enough to avoid any serious overhangs).
Like I said, I have no interest in this character but I would definitely be up for doing some test prints, but sadly I'm not currently set up for fdm printing. I haven't done anything fdm since... um... this year I think, and I don't have any filament I could use. I switched to resin printing, largely because of reading @myloschz Insecticon thread
Hahaha! Naw I mean my family and friends who almost interrupt me to not have to hear anymore details. I love hearing about other transformer projects. I am like 46, so the upgraded versions always confuse and frighten me. lol.
Give the MINIQ Nylon T-4 resin a "Whirl". It is simply amazing. The parts don't wear themselves down, and it is rigid enough to hold snap fit joints, but flexible and strong enough to snap fit.
MiniQ nylon T-4 resin. It will make resin printing complete. lol. It is amazing stuff.
Thank you all! Happy Holiday time period as well! Tiny update.
I have most of the finalized parts printed. Just a few stragglers with changes made that need to be re-re-re supported and printed.
The yellow came out a bit dirty, and the blue is a bit dark, but It will do for me!
I also gave in and got rid if the parts forming wheel clip. I designed them into the back of the pelvis and found a decent balance. It does not interfere with the stand clip in either mode.
I am hoping to manage to get the parts printed and cleaned up during the week, then get him put together this weekend!
It also occurs to me that this would make a great frog transformer. lol. The shapes are all there.
Holy shit! I went to their site and the description of the resin is just a video showing a ball joint plugged into a power drill chuck and then spun like crazy in its socket. Then they pop it out and it's still a tight connection with no apparent wear. That's amazing!
So the reason I haven't gone with more durable resins in the past is because you have to have a higher temperature to get them to print correctly. I can't really control the climate in my printing room independently, don't want to live in an 80 degree appt, and I haven't found an effective and economical way to control the temperature of the printer (some kind of chamber with a heater/thermostat). Are there temperature requirements for this resin?
Looks great so far
But there's a lot of printed material that doesn't belong to the actual parts. Is that necessary for this printing technology/system?
You are correct sir! Most engineering durable resins have to be printed at a higher temp, and sometimes you need thicker supports, or more support tip penetration.
I have not found that to be the case with this resin. It prints the same as the Siraya Abs like that I am using to test fit. My house is 65. And my printer is in the back near the drafty back door.
I am so happy to have found it that I am telling everyone. Just random people on the streets and shit! My only complaint is that it is a green that cures to a green grey. But the green is in there. It makes coloring a bit trickier.
It is, but I may go overboard. The supports are pretty dense to guarantee dimensional accuracy. There is a good amount of pull force as each freshly printed layer is peeled off of the fep sheet. With out proper support parts can have slight deformations that may not affect a miniature, but will make panels not line up properly etc.
I will also point out that I refuse to design for 3d printing. 3d printing needs to adapt to my design requirements. LOL. There are ways to design parts to minimize supports as well as better ways to orient them. I really just trade off the extra resin for the time needed due to lack of patience and experience.
Yeah, color is another consideration. I mostly paint everything I print, but I do want to try my hand at making a limited production run of a figure I've been working on (won't post it here so as not to distract from your project) and I would want that to have the resin colored rather than having to paint each piece. I will definitely be ordering this resin the next time I need some but for now I'm going to stick to my plan of casting my figure for its final production. Would be nice to be able to assemble a prototype without all the pegs snapping off, though. And it'd mean I could go straight from a successful test print to casting (with the fragile resin, I was going to need to print another copy after testing because enough material would be lost during assembly, especially on the ball joints, to change the shapes enough to ruin them for casting).
[Edit] Hey, how well does that resin take paint? Actual nylon doesn't do a great job I believe, but I'm pretty sure that this stuff isn't exactly the same as nylon.
this is super. well done
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