Hey guys, So I've been using this method for the past couple months, and it works pretty well- at least for me: COPIC Ink markers & color blender markers. 1) Find the stress mark 2) Cover it with the proper Copic color ink 3) Using a Copic Color Blender marker, free up some of the excess surrounding ink- make it wet again. 4) Take a q-tip and remove the excess ink The ink is permanent, so if you let it sit for a while, it's not going anywhere- you're good. "You could just reheat the plastic" (or whatever I've heard other collectors say over a million times)- True, I could, but I don't like the idea of reheating anything- I'd rather just cover it up. Where can you find COPIC Ink Markers: Amazon, or any hobby shop- like Michaels, Hobby Lobby, places like that. I will admit that they are expensive- they are- but the color range you get from COPIC is so darn good, I personally think it's worth it- and not just for covering up stress marks, but adding detail and panel lining your figures too- this technique I use is also good for that. ^_^
The thing about stress marks is that they are points where the plastic has actually weakened and may potentially break if it isn't dealt with properly (especially if they occur on joints). So I'm afraid covering them up with ink or paint isn't actually "fixing" the issue. I know you said you don't like the idea of reheating plastic, but what I do is take a hot soldering iron and hold the tip as close as I can to the stress mark without actually touching the plastic and letting the heat melt the plastic. It doesn't take long, only a second or two at most. It works well because you can really pinpoint where you apply the heat as opposed to using a hair dryer or heat gun. Your solution may be more applicable on sprue marks or edges of plastic parts where the structural integrity isn't an issue. I'm not trying to be mean, just offering my two cents.