HASLAB Unicron - Fixes and Discussion

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Monari, Mar 2, 2021.

  1. NTPrime

    NTPrime Well-Known Member

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    Acknowledged. I did not settle on a paint, haven't done anything with it just yet. Good to know the silver sharpie kind of works, but I know the gundam marker is more paint-like so I may still go for that.
     
  2. Christopher Marinescu

    Christopher Marinescu Turtle Prime

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    So has anyone else applied the gundam yellow marker to the maw? I just want to make sure its still a good idea before proceeding.
     
  3. ziltama

    ziltama Mods, molds, and casts. Also full of hot gas.

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    Using one of the worst (yet easier) painting methods on an extremely expensive figure doesn't make sense at all.

    Someone will eventually release a 'cap' to put over it. There's already proof of concept somewhere in the radicons section:
    Heavy/Scratch: - Trunkkey's Customs Corner
     
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  4. Monari

    Monari Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone been getting Trunkkey's maw covers, or have there been any other companies out there that have produced any?
     
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  5. 4249david

    4249david Autobot's chief customs agent, apparently...

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    I got one printed, just faffed with colours and ready to paint. I was in for one from Trunkkey until his prints failed.

    Not sure what mine's printed in, but it's solid.
     

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  6. mcreichman54

    mcreichman54 Proud Degenerate

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    I saw someone on here somewhere that is part of Cybertron Surgery that is printing & selling them with Trunkkey's approval apparently. I ordered one, but am waiting for it to arrive. They offer them painted in a couple different shades or unpainted and I thought pricing seemed fair. They are located in Australia as a heads up.

    Here's a link straight to it:
    Trunkkey - Maw Replacment HASLABS UNICRON
     
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  7. Sanjeev

    Sanjeev Well-Known Member

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    ^^Yeah...not sure I agree with this. It may not make sense for you, and that's totally cool, but seeing as how nothing ever actually comes into contact with the blue areas of the maw, I see no real risk in using something like a Gundam paint marker. I think it was @Jesse guerra who posted about a solvent-based spray paint meant for pavement a while back in one of these threads that's a pretty close match to the Unicron yellow (Krylon Line-Up highway yellow). I've worked with solvent-based paints before...and that shit on plastic cures bulletproof. No need to prime or even topcoat. So for me, I'll probably just disassemble the maw and spray it.

    Now, as for @Trunkkey's maw cover, I printed one out for myself a while back. It's definitely not bad...but it wasn't for me. From afar, it looks nice, but up close, you can kinda tell it's a separate piece sitting on top of the maw. And it kinda works its way loose whenever I use the teeth gimmick. I think it's a good solution for those who don't want to alter their toys permanently in any way. I'm not that guy. I've already painted the lower robot teeth silver and coated the eyes with gloss varnish (which I recommend to anyone who wants nice, proper translucent green eyes)...so the "damage" has been done! :p  I don't plan on selling this toy ever, and I prefer it to be as perfect as it can be, so paint is the way to go for me.

    Plus, the maw cover doesn't go all the way down to the center. I'm actually thinking of adding a couple layers of glow-in-the-dark yellow paint to the circular section just in the middle. In the movie, this part is always depicted as brightly glowing yellow...and while GID paint won't be able to reproduce that intensity, I think it'll be a nice reference. LEDs would do a more faithful job of replicating the movie look, but I'm not huge on LED gimmicks in general (plus I'd have no clue how to wire all that up!).

    Anyway, this one's for @Automaster and @DrOblivian:
    20210520_153720.jpg

    I finally got around to cutting a sheet of 1/4" neoprene for the Aleratec turntable. Going with the 1/4" (over the 1/8") was definitely the way to go. I'm finding that the creases do eventually vanish over time.

    I'm impatient, but despite my hasty scissoring leading to some uneven edges, I think it looks great! And, man, does this stuff work. Go ahead--pretend you're a hip-hop DJ cutting a record! No matter how violently you rotate the turntable back and forth, the toy ain't going anywhere. I've gotten Unicron's robot mode into some fairly precarious poses without his display stand, and the grip of the neoprene keeps him nice and stable. I'm calling this a win.

    20210520_153720.jpg 20210520_154340.jpg 20210520_154442.jpg 20210520_154651.jpg 20210520_154718.jpg 20210520_155522.jpg
     
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  8. Monari

    Monari Well-Known Member

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    You, sir, are a scholar and a gentleman. Just ordered one. I didn't realize Trunkkey's had mold failure. Really looking forward to getting this. I'm still debating whether or not to paint hte chompers, but this is going to go a looooong way towards making this figure right. I know people shit on the fandom a lot, but goddamn, stuff like this makes me feel so happy to be a part of it.
     
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  9. 4249david

    4249david Autobot's chief customs agent, apparently...

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    I believe the failure was with resin. I haven't had mine in situ yet, but it seems to grip well when done in PLA(? - I have no idea what I'm talking about here, fyi)
     
  10. mcreichman54

    mcreichman54 Proud Degenerate

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    Happy to be of service haha. Now hopefully they turn out well!
     
  11. 4249david

    4249david Autobot's chief customs agent, apparently...

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    Finally painted up my @Trunkkey maw print. Thanks to @spark crusher for the print.

    Can't give a precise mix, but it's about 50/50 Mr Hobby Orange Yellow H24, and Tamiya Flat White XF-2, with a few drops of Mr Hobby Red H3.
    20210522_154705.jpg 20210522_154802.jpg 20210522_155022.jpg
     
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  12. Paco Grande

    Paco Grande Well-Known Member

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  13. 4249david

    4249david Autobot's chief customs agent, apparently...

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    Funny you ask!

    I was looking at it yesterday and thinking how it seems lighter than I expected...

    I mixed, and brushed on a scrap pound (dollar) shop figure, to get a close match. Once happy, I thinned it and airbrushed.

    Once I'd finished, though, I touched up with a brush (from my thinned mix) on the parts facing outwards. I think that was a mistake...

    16220102006387208021544923181950.jpg 16220102222616508221956806523909.jpg

    Daylight is my enemy here, because that first picture looks kinda okay in the light I just took this in. In full daylight, it's a little milkier. It seems that thinned paint, brushed on, just looks completely different...

    You can see the back is far closer in colour though. If you brushed that, or airbrushed a thinned mix, you get a good match
    16220105497567284548789138438777.jpg
     
  14. Paco Grande

    Paco Grande Well-Known Member

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    Maybe in person it’s more obvious but to me in these pictures it looks like a close enough match. I really want to just paint the existing parts because I feel that’s the best solution, but I’ve never painted that much of a figure before so I’m concerned about messing it up. I also don’t own an airbrush and I’m not sure I want to buy one for this one job.

    Did anyone else notice that in LEK’s YouTube video he shows you how to remove the pins from the gears, implying that he will paint them. But then he doesn’t paint them. So he must have tried it and failed or he changed his mind. I would like to paint the gears as well but I will need a clear coat over the paint for sure and that may still not be enough protection.
     
  15. 4249david

    4249david Autobot's chief customs agent, apparently...

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    I think @songrobin painted his gears? Not sure if there's a method to it that works?
     
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  16. songrobin

    songrobin Pastor

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    Thanks for the tag. I didn't know that this thread existed.

    PLANET MODE

    Here's a number of pictures of the process I used for the planet mode. I did paint the gears as well as the base connectors to the 2 larger mandibles. If it helps, you can apply a tiny bit of lithium grease or oil with a q-tip so that the paint doesn't flake off as easy. I don't even use anything and the tiny bit of paint flaking (because of repeated disassembly/reassembly), I just spot painted with a tiny brush (after making a small pool of paint on cardboard). It's currently on display and I've messed with opening/closing the maw dozens of times and no paint flaking on any of the gears at all.

    The spray paint I used is MONTANA GOLD "GOLDEN YELLOW". You can get it on Amazon. Its a really good match and it's real easy to DIY; just give yourself a bit of distance (say 1-2 ft?) and blast away.

    At first, I painted the gears only and I really didn't like that you could see the blue tracks through the gaps -- it felt incomplete. So I went for a 2nd round and I painted the tracks underneath the gears as well. For a finishing touch, I used apoxie to fill in the hollow cavities of each of the 12 smaller mandibles. Once dry, I took a dremel + sandpaper to them and painted them also.

    It's still a work in progress. For the center of the maw, I do plan on installing LEDs, possibly cutting out the center crack that shows those "hairs" and replacing it with an acrylic/LED solution. We'll see-- stay tuned!

    20210331_174014 (Large).jpg 20210401_182909 (Large).jpg 20210401_195139 (Large).jpg 20210406_131605 (Large).jpg 20210406_131630 (Large).jpg 20210408_193720 (Large).jpg 41wCf5S28YL._AC_.jpg 20210522_191253 (Large).jpg 20210522_191319 (Large).jpg 20210526_091202 (Large).jpg 20210526_091216 (Large).jpg 20210526_091239 (Large).jpg 20210526_091328 (Large).jpg montana-montana-gold-acrylic-scampi.jpg
     
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  17. msol

    msol Well-Known Member

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    I think I want to paint the blue chompers in the middle of the maw a reflective gold. I think that's the only thing that would capture how that part is basically "lit up" in all of Unicron's appearances in the movie. That or a highly reflective silver or something.
     
  18. 4249david

    4249david Autobot's chief customs agent, apparently...

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    So, I took off the varnish and tried again. This time, with the existing coats on, I just brushed it. I think I'd get the same results thinned and airbrushed though, based on last time.

    Anyways... this is close to perfect in person and I'm chuffed to bits!

    Approximately 60/40 on the Orange Yellow H24 and Flat White XF-2. A drop of Red H3 and then the kicker - a drop of Tamiya Iron Gray XF-84.

    Yes, despite need the milkiness adding to the yellow first, it needs a but of dirtying up to get the correct hue.

    Natural light
    20210531_113526.jpg 20210530_163547.jpg


    Artificial light
    20210531_113540.jpg 20210531_113537.jpg
     
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  19. Me4king

    Me4king New Member

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    Well done mate! I was thinking of paneling lining him when I first saw the prototype photos but dreaded the amount of work involved...
    Though I would clean up the lines and make them thinner using some solvent and chosen brown instead of black for the yellow areas.

     
  20. entityunknown

    entityunknown Active Member

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    I can ensure you the panel lining is a very long, enduring process. I got over 30 hours into mine... I got some friends stayin in his room so I took a break but I'm thinkin just the figure, not the shell, I still have another 10+ hours to go.... The shell I think will take about half the overall time the figure did... The worst part is once you start, you're basically committed whether you like it or not ;)