wow. this could have turned out just fine budd. if you just used masking tape or a cardboard edge to cover the edges you weren't painting. I used craft paint and super glue as my clear coat years ago before I ever knew about acrylics and it turned out just fine (picture below). im jealous you got so much help man it wasn't that bad. and i think you should keep the stickers, just try and get them off still intact then glue them on straight when your painting is done. I also use a magnifying glass for allot of painting (get one that stands up on the table in front of what your lookin at) craft paint does suck a bunch but it will stay on if you clear coat with super glue, but it wont be smooth or glossy at all.
Look I'm being serious. This feels like someone taking I cherish, then destroying it intentionally, then saying "what did I do to upset you?"
Thats a bit harsh. This place is about helping people customize their toys and get better in the process. That kind of statement just puts people off.
Hey, it could've been worse I remember my first custom figure: i was 14 or so, and really into drawing and writing, then one day found some craft acrylics and some GI Joes. I made this HORRIBLE Cyborg-Superman, tattered red cape and all, but I was so damn proud of it. That led to more terrible looking Joes, but eventually, with practise and advice I got better. But thats what matters right, being proud of our work (no matter how tragic it is), and we all know how it feels when others don't see what we see.
MegaMoonMan, if I'd had cash to spare I'd have simply bought proper stickers. The super-glued symbols actually do look alright, and were only glued to bare plastic. I also dispute your assessment that the surface can never be made smooth again, because I've done it. And a glue stick? Mine won't even hold paper to paper. I was asking for the scans as a poor man's substitute. NLTAG, why does sloppy paintwork make you feel like I've intentionally destroyed the figure? That's what I'm having trouble figuring out. It's nothing that can't be fixed. You want intentionally destroyed, I'll go find a lighter.
It's a toy of which there are a lot of and affordable. If it bothers you that much then buy one. Sorry this is just getting annoying. ----------- One thing you can do with the stickers if your low on funds is buy one of those label stick sheets and print out the symbols then cut them out. It's a nice temporary fix until you can afford a repro. Superglue does have a chemical reaction with plastic. It causes a bit of melting/melding and is the reason why it's good for connecting plastics.
Agreed. NLTAG, I can certainly understand your sentiment, however VectorPrime404 owns this figure and is free to do with it as he chooses. Fishdirt's quote in this thread about, "If it bothers you that much then buy one." would help a lot more than continually ranting, I'd think. You're certainly free to have your opinions, but others are free to interact with those opinions as well. On the other end of things: VectorPrime404, note that you're post is quoted after NLTAG explained himself. Honestly, you're not doing yourself any favors by continually digging an extensive explanation for some things. The reason I'm taking the time to discuss both ends of the spectrum is because I'm starting to see a lot of this happening: VP, I'd like to say that I applaud your effort to take both constructive and negative criticism, but I think based on your two project threads you really need to make sure you read each post and carefully consider what each person has to say. I'm seeing a bit of people posting and explaining themselves, and then you continually asking what someone has said. Also, take all critiques as a comprehensive critique. For example, if several comment on ways to fix your paint work and then another person posts that your paint work is $#!*, then there's little need asking the person who degraded your work why they think your paint work isn't up to par. You're at a decent place with your posts and threads right now. However, many who post critiques offering some VERY good advice will eventually have their patience run out. Ultimately, this is your work. At the end of the day, you're the one who is to be satisfied with it, unless you're selling it to another person. Despite what a thread says, if you're happy with your work, then when you go back to it, that should be sufficient. * * * * * To all, I would like to reiterate: If you see a post that you think it unnecessary, use the report bad post option (). This alerts all staff to a post that is questionable. Carry on, ladies and gents
Well, here's the update. Turned out much smoother than before. Up to Hasbro standards at any rate. The paint on his chest is still a mess, I know. But I won't be correcting it until I figure out what's causing my white paint to misbehave. That, or I get some new white paint. But without either of those happening there wouldn't be a point because it'd just come out a mess again anyway. *sigh* I'm done with Blurr for now, apart from the chest paint. He's good enough for me, and I'm shifting focus to my more involved Hot Rod and Mirage kitbashes. And planned Arcee scratchbuild. I might come back to him later to perfect the repainting, but that won't be for a while.
As far as the white paint goes, here's my advice: Totally remove the white paint and start over. Then, take some masking tape, and mask off all of the areas you don't want painted white. After masking, get some Krylon Fusion white and spray the area. A few good, light coats would do the job. Let it dry overnight. After the figure is fully dry, remove the tape. Enjoy your figure!
I did say it would have to wait until I got some more white paint, which won't be for a while. I am getting some late birthday money, but it's going to be used for either buying a beater G1 Springer I've been looking at (least likely), buying a Universe or BiS Cyclonus, or buying parts and weapons. So unless there's some white in that paints shipment from Son of Nemesis, I get the white paint I've got to go on right (which I hope I can do, given that it's a 6.78-ounce tube), or I find an income source, cleaning up that paint is on the back burner. The Hot Rod and Mirage kitbashes are what's on my desk right now.
I was told to come look at Blurr as an example of your "good work" but Blurr's paint looks thick and gloppy as well. You even acknowledge that you'll need to go buy some more white paint. I get it, Kitbashing is hard, but as others have mentioned, some practice on non vintage figures, some patience, and some genuine listening would do you well. If you ask for "help" or "critique" and then get all upset at the first post that isn't lavishing praise. Also if people are making the same suggestions in every thread you start, maybe instead of "yeah yeah I'll do it later" as you rush off to make the same mistakes on the next figure; maybe intsead of that, you should take heed of the advice and try to learn from your mistakes. Of which you are making a shit ton of. I've made my share of botched KB's also. But they tend to be on readily available figures that are easy to replace. And I'm more than aware of my shortcomings as a painter/modder before I put the figures up on display. So lets not play dumb, here. The ZOMG HOW CAN YOU SAY I'M BLOTCHY act is getting old.
I said to look at Blurr as he is now compared to before, to show that I can improve. I'm not questioning how you can think the white paint is blotchy. I know it is. The reason I called good enough for now is because the blues at least are a lot neater, and his colours match his screen appearance (which was my aim in putting paint on him at all). It's at least up to Hasbro standards now. Blurr was an absolute pain to even get this far. And believe me, it's better than how mine looked before. He had a REALLY bad case of greening. He was Skyquake green. Days in hydrogen peroxide did nothing. I have moved on to the Hot Rod and Mirage bashes because they needed it more. The glued section of Hot rod's roof (screwpost to canopy) kept breaking. In the modification process, I have not only granted him an additional feature, I have also been able to create a reinforced joint that can better withstand stress. Mirage, well, I wanted him to have articulated legs. I started that months ago, but the original plan fell through. As a result he's been legless since October. I have a new a plan and more suitable parts now, though, and he'll be up and about again soon. After that's done, perhaps then I'll come back to Blurr. The reason I keep saying "I'll do it later" is because I'm BROKE. Air brush? I'd love one. Thing is, they cost money. A bit more than $1.96, last I checked. So when will I do it with an airbrush? When I have money to get one. What do you think of the modifications to his head? Btw, I also told you to look at Swoop and Galvatron. Did you? EDIT: Stripped him completely down to bare plastic. Son of Nemesis' paints arrived, and I successfully thinned my Regency Blue (another reason I was hesitant to thin was because past attempts have turned out completely unusable). Re-re-re-painting at 90%. I have also modified the handle on his shield so that it's actually useful. EDIT 2: All new paint applied. Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to have to fashion a decal for the white on his chest, because that area got badly chipped. Pictures are attached. You'll notice that I'm currently stuck with the crap camera again.
i'll be honest man, if you take some thinner (for whatever type of paint you used), and strip his torso, mask off his arms and every other area except his torso, I'll send you some Krylon White Primer. Spray his torso a few light times, until you get a nice smooth white windshield. remove the masking tape, and handpaint the dark blue very carefully around the windshield. I'll send some masking tape as well if you need it. i hope you dont take offense to this post, just trying to help
I have to say that this and other posts offering to assist VectorPrime404 are totally cool. Props to each of you guys who have posted offering to help. VP404, I've gotta agree with vipera's suggestion on the white Kyrlon spraying process as well. I know you've mentioned cost issues, etc., but I'd rather see you get your G1 figures, save up or whatever to get some better materials, and try some of the methods myself and others have suggested.
I appreciate the help guys. Although I'm not sure the Krylon primer will help with this one. The chipping's really bad, almost half a centimeter deep in some parts. How does the rest of the figure look?
Hmm..he still looks pretty bad. Tell you what, if you can pay the shipping to the UK, i'll re-paint him for free, using an airbrush and car paint, so it wont chip. (you'll have to strip the paint off again to vare plastic though.) Probably wont take me more than 20 minutes so its not a problem, i can do it inbetween other projects. If not, then did you try using very light coats and masking tape like i suggested?
wait... if the chipping is bad.. than that's good... cuz you can use sanding or other ways to chip of the rest on purpose then afterwards use the krylon white.. then mask... then paint blue sounds good right? Goodluck man!
