yeah it was used. not the member's fault of course, just a bummer.

looked at it more today and i'm guessing the overly tight dino leg/robot shoulder ratchet is why the plastic sheared apart. still not a good sign if a $300 msrp figure has such crappy plastic and design that it's gonna fall apart on you. guess i'm passing on gcreation's idw prowl.

 

That's why I hope to do a review of this soon (even though @GaboCO316 trashed my lighting  ). The visual design and engineering is "good" but certain things on this figure will create breaks unless you go at the figure very slowly. Work...and moving! Still trying to fully unpack!
Also, one of the pegs on my mace head got cracked/stressed...trying to repair and reinforce that!
Tradeoffs...tradeoffs for a "visually" and mechanically accurate G-lock that is. Strange as I type that I got my new Glock too!   (Gwrath arrived 2 weeks before Glock, lol)

 

Sad that those 3P toys so good come with a bad QC, like this one and TC Bumblebee
But meh, the visual design doesn't look so good imo. He looks like made of rocks rather than metal. SS version is visually better imo. I guess they should just change the sculpt in some parts, like the bot head (Mainly this)

 

I have the old leader aoe black knight version, ss with dna kit, bmb and the g-creation grimlock too(and an amazon statue). My favorite character is by far grimlock. The dino mode is so much better than ss like black apple prime compared to ss prime. But i still prefer bmb in robot mode. I have no problem with having more figures of one character as long there are improvements.

 

The only problem with bmb/ss model is the lack of articulation. I mean, GC has joints everywhere, that articulation is perfect. The ss misses articulation in the right arm

 

I mainly use my tf figures as a display peace, i think ss is a very good figure(it’s dino mode with dna kit is better than bmb or wj version) but g-creation is the clear winner in dino mode. It is like a statue. I use bmb mainly in robot mode, it shines in this mode.

 

I couldn't agree more. The only nitpick I have is I wish they did a different color.

 

I was talking about articulation in bot mode
He's not so good to pose like other figures. I mean, make many poses

 

Sadly, I think this is why so many of us have holes in our pockets...man I really do have a lot of OPs. But I only have 3 Grimlocks. (4 if you count the potp Grim, but I can't count him, he sucks).

 

Got the opportunity to repair a G-Creation Grimlock in need of a second life   Thanks @Fallout for this opportunity!

The package arrived rather quickly and to my place safe and sound (although there was a typo in the address, magically the address didn't exist and UPS knew to delivery it to mine!)

Inspecting the claimed broken piece.

Toe inspection. Not mentioned in the thread but through PMs.


I messed with the joints a bit before tackling the fix, and oh man were they right. Most of his dino-leg/robot arm joints are wayyyy too tight!! I disassembled both shoulder pieces that were connected to the torso. I was pleased to find out most of the joints are made out of metal. The tightness is probably from forgetting to factor in paint thickness when making these metal pieces. Stripped most of the paint off the metal joints and applied 1~2 drops of 30wt shock oil to them all. Below is the shoulder joint that connects to the torso. I did the same thing for the robot elbow joints. Soooo much better! Still tight and 0 worries of it being too loose. The ratchet helps too.


Wish I took more pictures of the torso fix. @Fallout sent me an extra screw that they thought would help with the fix. It sure did! The top peg was glued and I couldn't pop it out. I had to drill a new hole and a deeper hole in the base on the torso. Used the extra screw as support for the top peg. Used a binder clip and original screw for the bottom peg. Below is the whole thing drying together. Hopefully I can screw in the arm after it dries, awkward angle!

Shoulder piece drying in the torso:


JB Plastic Weld attempt at toe hinge. This is actually the third attempt. The first attempt it just broke off because I didn't wait long enough to cure it. Second attempt I tried to glue the toe along with the hinge but that got stuck together and ultimately snapped off. On the second attempt I also tried the baking soda+super glue trick along with the JB Weld. No dice.

Toe hinge drying to JB Plastic Weld:


The trickiest part was figuring out how to glue this back together. Then I realized I can just glue the hinge by itself then try to remove the metal bar on the toe. It worked! The metal bar is extremely tough. Even though it's hollow, I squeezed exteeeeemely hard and it did not bend at all. I was able to get it loose by putting a drop of shock oil to set it loose then forcefully wiggle it out.


Here are the materials I used for both torso and toe attempts.


Overall, even with all the work put into this, I have my doubts with this fix (lol). I'm going to let it cure for at least 24 hours before touching it again. Even then, I don't think the JB Plastic Weld will hold for long. I've tried JB Plastic Bonder but I think that's worse than JB Plastic Weld, for this situation at least.

Will update when I work on it again.

Bonus pic: OP waiting for his friend to get well...

 

@HappyCryCat dang dude...that's too much work for our +$200 figure   But great effort, see if you can either sun cure it or UV cure it. I guess I'm glad I'm still unpacking...even though my mace head peg cracked  

 

I just got my copy in. Should I be proactive and apply some shock oil on the dino-leg/robot arm joints before transforming the figure?

Anything I should be careful about?

 

Haha if you say it like that...

Hopefully you got some new solutions from me  

The dino-feet/robot-arm joins are extremely tight. I think it's to let the dino mode stand but I don' think they have to be THAT tight...the plastic joints and pegs will definitely not be able to handle that much tightness.
That said, I would carefully take apart the arm, sand the paint off until you see bare metal, and then apply shock oil. I used 120 grit to strip the paint from the metal. Be careful, there are tiny ratchet pieces that will come out from the shoulder joint and elbow joint.

The hip joints (connected to the waist), knees, and ankle joints are super tight, too. All had shock oil applied.

Oh yeah, don't forget to put him back together :^)

 

Hm, can I just apply shock oil without removing the paint?

 

You can and it'll help. But imo it'll still be excessively tight. There will probably be less danger of stressing the plastic but you'll find out that it can be less tight any without sacrificing posability.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

Just got this guy and all the joints seem to be fine but the Mini-Figure's sword got stuck in the hand and first the peg that connected the hand to the arm broke off and that is easy enough to fix but then the sword handle broke which I have no idea how to fix. Also what joints should I be careful with on the main figure?

 

A little late with my review, but this might help you @Viata

Joints on the main figure should be fine in robot mode, alt mode you should take a little more care with, since things get locked into place. I think hips are the only thing that are really tight, in the squeakiness of it all and due to it being one of the areas where you slide to compress/decompress.

 

Be careful of the shoulder joints connected to the inner chest. I'd take apart the entire arm and lube all the joints if I were you.

 

Those who collect MP scale figures, does this have a place in your collection? I adore the design of this figure, but I feel like he’d just look like a big puppy in comparison to the likes of Skybreaker and Knight Orion.