Also, like all the blue plastic on Onslaught, I mean why are the green/blue plastics for these guys so fragile.

Anyways, I think I may have a fix for the Sinnertwin as head neck seems similar to Rippersnappers (just paint it green), but horri-bull? I guess we could use one of the 7 other molds for onslaught and just paint the plastic.

Besides gold plastics, what other ones are especially prone to destructon?

Thank you kindly,
Minh

 

Hasbro has introduced a newer gold plastic that doesn`t shatter ... G2 Slingshot in CW .... And I`m unaware of any blue plastics being fragile ....I may be wrong , but I hadn`t had any issues ...

 

The jaws of the Device Label Ravage mold are very delicate. I bought Tigatron and Cheetus as well.

Cheetus and Ravage broke the second I went to move the jaw and Cheetus' legs are quite brittle as well.

 

Are you asking about g1 horribull? I basically glued the neck posts back together, then filed the pinhole to decrease friction and the exterior of the posts to decrease strain on the posts with head movement. If I had lost the posts I would have filed down the remaining post, pinned and glued new posts and drilled the pinhole for a replacement. LEGO plastic works pretty well as replacements.

horribly

 

I'm guessing these are already broken. For Sinnertwin the easiest thing is to file down the insides of his chest just a little. There just isn't enough clearance for this head to slide down on the post. If it's already broken then(assuming you still have a head) drill a small hole in the head and neck post and then use something rigid(like a paperclip or something of the like) to give the head more stability and then glue everything together. Of course file down the insides of the chest otherwise this will keep happening. In the future maybe use a screw driver or something to gently push the head post forward.

No idea on Horri-bull though since I've never owned him. But I'd assume the breakage occurs because of not enough clearance that then puts a great amount of stress on the plastic. I'd figure filing down trouble areas would be the best bet and then rebuild the hinge.

 

I mean you guys have had or still have hell me confused,I don't know I'm confuuuuused but are you guys talking about POTtyPee Sinner twin being found and already having problems!?

 

They are talking about the G1 figs

 

Hi Huktofonix,

I don't have a horri-bull, but was thinking of acquiring one. The ones listed for sale on ebay all seem to have the issue with the neck being broken. I was thinking of getting an intact one and maybe doing a preventative ix on that one so it would not break, but from what I understand you own a broken one which you repaired? Was it broken completely? Some of the ones I see on sale just have a crack on one or more posts. Is the pin holding the head to body difficult to remove? What do you file down plastic with?

Thank you kindly,

MInh

 

Yes, I had an intact one, broke the head, one of the hands and completely shattered leg assembly. I have recently acquired (don't have it in hand as of yet) a boxed intact one which I am now paranoid about owning without breaking , and have even more recently received one with already broken neck and badly damaged hands. So, that's three. The 2nd broken one I received I broke one of his beast legs by trying to move it into beast position. This procedure about fixing his neck with a drilled hole and a paper clip, is this something you have personally done? If so, I'm trying to picture how to go about it, are you using epoxy to keep the paperclip in? Lastly, what are you using "file" down the sides of the chest where the neck rubs against?

Thank you kindly,

Minh

 

G1 Onslaught?

 

It was intact, but the plastic on the neck pin holders(posts)broke as soon as I moved the head (it was in storage since I was a kid and the pin had some rust). I was fortunate enough to find the broken pieces and glue them back on (basic cyanoacrylate glue). The pin was easy enough to pull from the head pin holders with pliers although if I was removing it from an intact figure I would either use a punch or probably heat it up with a soldering iron before removing gently with something to push it out a few mm and then pliers the rest of the way.

After that I filed down the pin holders(posts) on the head side to increase clearance and also derusted the pin. After I put it back together the head moved loosely enough that I’m not worried about it breaking with normal use. I just used a basic hand file. Sandpaper would work as well, but I find a file gives me more precision.

 

The hole/paper clip method is what I use when possible to increase the stability/tensile strength of a repair. Basically you drill a small hole on both ends of the repair and are using a piece of a paper clip as a “pin”. The pin will run perpendicular to the break and hopefully increase the strength of repair. After that use your preferred glue/epoxy on one side the break, stick in the pin, connect the other end and clamp until dry. I personally prefer at least 2 pins when there is enough area. I’ve used this on a number of figures. It’s effective but you still need to correct the reason for the break (E.g. file down a poor tolerance to increase clearance for a part to move. )

 

I haven't personally done. I do own a Sinnertwin who is in minty condition, but I do know about the issue with his neck post being too wide for the head to pull down properly like on Blot and Rippersnapper. It's basically like Huktonfonix said. Take some epoxy putty and fill about a cm length worth of the neck. Let that fully cure and harden. Once that's happened take a marker and make a dot in the center of the post and the head(might need to slightly sand the head with some sand paper if the head isn't flat at the break), then take a drill with a small drillbit(you could also use a pin vice for greater accuracy) inside and make a small hole. You only need to go a few millimeters in the head and the post so just go slowly and be careful. Then just take a paper clip measure out enough length to fit both the post and the head and superglue(something like Loctite) everything. Once that's done unscrew the body and just using some standard needle files(you can easily get them at hardware stores or hobby shops) file down the inside of the chest where the neck slides down to become an arm. You don't need to do it too much just enough to make it a smooth motion when you push the head forward. Just file a little bit on either side and do a test fit of the head, sliding it up and down to see how tight things are. Once you are comfortable with how things are just reassemble.

Sinnertwins robot hands I have heard of being messed up because kids will be kids and chew on anything, but the legs breaking is a new thing. They are pretty robust bits of plastic so if they are breaking it might be due to the actual rivet, like if it's rusty it'll cause things to seize up so you use more force then otherwise would be necessary.

Probably best to leave the minty one in box and using the other two try to cobble together something that will be suitable to be messed with. Not sure how the leg broke on the second Sinnertwin but you might be able to glue the leg back together. Not knowing how the break is I really can't comment further. If you take pics of both Sinnertwins and the actual breaks it would be easier to help you with further fixes.

 

This is what I ended up with. Admittedly not the prettiest cosmetic result but my intent was to have one of my prior favorite childhood toys restored to a functional state. I may work on cosmetics later.

 

I just slide the pin that connects the head and neck out when I transform him. Then, I slide it back in.

 

I fixed a couple of sinnertwins easily enough, one way is to carefully coax the head out using a cocktail stick pushed down the 'neck' to pry the head out, this applies the pressure towards the swing point, once the head is down you can apply some beard trim oil to the gap it swings through and also into the base of the neck. The other way is to open him up and slightly shave a bit of plastic down (I cant remember exactly where but its just a tiny bit) but I feel the issue is that the gap to swing the head down through is extremely tight.

If I had a horribull I'd be sorely tempted to file a bit of plastic down and apply some oil, beard trim oil has become a friend of my collections longevity! It is very useful on ratchets.

 

FOund my sinnertwin, which promptly had the neck post snap. I’m currently fixing it. The swivel point is a bit tight so I’ll probably apply some lubricant to that, but the chest where it comes out of is very tight as well. To fix that I disassembled, heated the part in hot water and slightly dilated the opening to allow more clearance. Once the glue is dry I’ll see how it does.