FansToys FT-10 Phoenix (Masterpiece Skyfire)

Discussion in 'Transformers 3rd Party Discussion' started by Cyclonus79, Apr 27, 2014.

  1. FattyMoBookyBut

    FattyMoBookyBut Well-Known Member

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    What's the historical tie to metallic red? Was there any physical figures or media depictions of shiny red metal besides the hasbro generations release?

    Or are you painting him just because it's going to look cool as hell?
     
  2. h1gg1n5

    h1gg1n5 Well-Known Member

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    Finished up the repainting of the metallic vents on my FT-10 today after letting it dry overnight. It's a very simple process if you have ever rattle can (spray can) painted anything before.

    Step by step this is what I did:

    *First a warning. Everyones results may vary so proceed at your own risk.*

    Tools needed:
    Mini screw driver set: https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-...rewdriver+set&qid=1555212836&s=gateway&sr=8-6
    1500 wet sand paper: https://www.amazon.com/3M-32023-Imperial-Wetordry-Sheet/dp/B0002MSY7C
    Primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249418-Automotive-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B003CT4AMU
    Tamiya TS-8:
    https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Lacque...553789473&refresh=1&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull
    Optional:
    Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear coat: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TS-80-Spray-Synthetic-Lacquer/dp/B000ZVO3YS
    Tamiya TS-79 Semi Gloss Clear: Ts-79 Semi Gloss Clear 100Ml Spray Can / Tamiya USA

    Most of the above can be substituted. They are just there to give you a good idea of whats needed.

    1. Turned the legs so the metal vents are facing down and the screw holes are facing up.
    2. Unscrewed the 7 screws visible from the outside on the inner thigh (now facing up).
    3. Gently pull the white plastic parts apart (no glue at all they just come apart), watch for where the metal bush button that lets the legs retract.
    4. Once apart remove the 2 inner screws that hold the metal vents onto the legs.
    5. Wet sand the metal with 1500 grit sand paper to scuff up the paint.
    6. Washed with dish soap to clean, rinse well. Try to limit touching the paint surfaces from here on in. I just carried on them on the palm of my hand.
    7. Dried them both with my wifes hairdryer, dry very well.
    8. Placed them on some cardboard. Sprayed with an grey fast dry primer (just a light dusting but fully covered)
    9. Let dry for 30-45 min until the primer on the cardboard is not tacky.
    10. Spray light coats of the Tamiya TS-8. Just enough to cover it. If you spray too much it will pool and run.
    11. Waited 10-15 min until the red paint on the cardboard it not tacky.
    12. Sprayed 2 more light coats until I was happy.
    13. Let dry overnight and then carefully handle and reverse the removal process.

    **I will note that I did spary too heavy of a coat on my first attempt but it's a VERY easy fix if you screw it up. Just get some Acetone (or nail polish remover) and dunk the parts in it and it's back to just how it was after the wet sanding. You have as many tries as needed this way until your happy with the final result. It did not damage the metal at all and in fact it didn't even strip the factory red clear coat off, just brought it back to after wet sanding.**

    I am SUPER happy with how this turned out and he looks way more G1 to me now. This is how I figure it should have come from the factory in my humble opinion.

    As everyone always says, it looks much better in real life. I couldn't get the lighting right but the last picture side by side of the backpack and red TS-8 painted part is under "white light" but it gives it a bit of a darker look on the paint than the plastic still for some reason.

    Here are the seven screws to remove and untab the plastic piece in the circle.
    [​IMG]
    After pulling the plastic apart you will see this. These two screws hold on the metal piece you want to repaint so unscrew them and be careful of the metal part in the circle as it falls out easily but just goes right back into place.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Image below is only sprayed with the color coat. No clear coat as it is very shiny.
    [​IMG]
    These are the comparison between the semi and flat top coat. I prefer the flat clear as it matched the plastic better to my eyes.
    [​IMG]
    Semi Gloss Clear on the plastic.
    [​IMG]
    Flat clear on plastic.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2019
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  3. Arycon

    Arycon Well-Known Member

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    The metallic (for me at least) originates from the impression FT-10X would feature reflective metallic red on the backpack, leg vents, and wings. That was my personal impression based on the promo photos. Not saying they meant that, but it's what I thought I was paying for.

    That being the case, I'm going to paint my FT-10 that way...flecked metallic lacquer. Yes, imho it will look bad ass. Not everyone's cup of tea, but its mine. :rock 

    I did it for my Constructor TW-C07F. It didnt come with silver thigh pieces and I wanted them. I bought a yellow set and painted and weathered them.

    20190316_212034.jpg 20190306_144306.jpg 20190306_171831.jpg
     
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  4. boomerdave

    boomerdave Owns three Ditka figures. O_o Moderator

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    Looks great! Very nicely done :D 
     
  5. Arycon

    Arycon Well-Known Member

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    Dude, that is good work. Matches perfectly now. Tamiya makes some good spray cans. I used to use them on RC car bodies. Thumbs up on the repaint. :thumb 
     
  6. Maglite

    Maglite Porkchop sandwiches!

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    Dude, that turned out awesome! I'm jelly. Maybe someday I'll summon the courage/motivation to do this to mine.
     
  7. Chienhuycu

    Chienhuycu Member

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    Me too, waiting for that guy
     
  8. deaculpa

    deaculpa Stand Alone Complex

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    Man ft10 is at the $400 level on eBay. Looks like I’ll be getting the siege jetfire, as opposed to making my most expensive purchase ever for a single figure.
     
  9. Arycon

    Arycon Well-Known Member

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    I've seen him on the ST boards for $350. Someone posted in the thread one was going for $300 or $325, cant remember exactly, but they didnt mark the thread and I couldn't find it. But yeah, more than $350/$360 is it.

    Keep an eye on the boards. One pops up now and again.
     
  10. Destructimis Prime

    Destructimis Prime We have Landed

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    I have my FT-10 in my BST thread up for sale or trade. I’m looking to trade it for one of a few specific items.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2019
  11. Robogeek28

    Robogeek28 Proud grandpa

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    Damn...I might list mine after all.
     
  12. raptor22

    raptor22 @TFBotShots on IG

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    Found these weird leg vent bubbles/splotches on mine. Not a biggie to me.
    Anyone else have this weird anomaly??

    upload_2019-3-28_14-58-16.png
     
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  13. Robogeek28

    Robogeek28 Proud grandpa

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    Anyone?
     
  14. ChromeMagnus

    ChromeMagnus Well-Known Member

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    The reprolabels/toyhax sticker set really compliments @jream's chest insignia nicely.
     
  15. artimus prime

    artimus prime Articulation Junkie... I'm a poser TFW2005 Supporter

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    That's from the styrofoam. You can't rub it off?
     
  16. deaculpa

    deaculpa Stand Alone Complex

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    Shit, there’s a car polish that’ll get it but I have to look it up. One sec.
     
  17. smkheidze

    smkheidze sideswipe and sideswipe and even more sideswipe.

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    use a spudger...thats what I did. If you dont have one...justpull untill it untabs...its f###in tight tho...
     
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  18. deaculpa

    deaculpa Stand Alone Complex

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  19. maz25

    maz25 Well-Known Member

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    Do yourself a favor. Don't worry about opinions or quantity of opinions. What you want to do is what matters.
     
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  20. f0cus

    f0cus You can call me Sir

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    I would probably open it ensure there were no QC issues. Some posted that they were missing the fins, stuff like that. Better to know rather than pass it on to the next person if you do sell.

    Up to you I guess!