Minor/Repaint: Custom Dropkick

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Ceerad, Aug 31, 2007.

  1. funkatron101

    funkatron101 TFW2005 Supporter

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    Well I liked it enough that I bought it.

    I might "finish it up," I might not. Really not sure until I look at it up close. Really not a bad price considering I only saw him in stores once, and I neglected to pick it up.
     
  2. EvaUnit13

    EvaUnit13 REBUILD

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    And yet he didn't change the logo to Autobot(in the game, that's the Autobot drone head, but as a toy, it's specified as Decepticon)
     
  3. ckhtiger

    ckhtiger old skool fool

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    ditto. I drybrushed movie cc bumblebee, ironhide, and barricade. I was shocked at how much it brought out the details in their bot modes. I was like, wow, that was easy, and looks great too, I wonder how many other tfs it would look good on. I took a look at my shelves, and realized that it really is just the movie aesthetic, and then just for a certain few, that it looks good on.
     
  4. Night Flame

    Night Flame TFW2005 Supporter

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    *RAISES HAND*

    I think airbrushing gets a certain amount of negativity around these parts because of the shading styles used on really well done Gundam models. People start to believe that an airbrush is only able to be used for shading or detail work and people don't realize it can be used for everything from applying primer to apply final coats and all sorts of detail work in between.

    As for drybrushing, I think it can work wonders on a lot of Transformers molds. Transformers have been adding a lot more molding detail over the past few years, and especially in Cybertron, there were several that really could benefit from some drybrushing on the robo-bits. HOWEVER, the least people could do if they're going to dry-brush the robo-bits is put a nice clear-coat to shine-up the alt-mode bits. It's just to disconcerting to see dry-brushed bits and then see plastic sheen in combination with it. I'd even go so far as to say a lot of the robo-bits could use a dull-coat over the top of the dry-brushing to help keep it grounded with the plastic underneath.

    I tend to be an all-in or nothing kind of guy when it comes to paint though. Either follow it to the logical conclusion, or don't do it. A lot of stuff I see is right in the middle and kind of disconcerting for it. It'd be nice to see people do the dry-brushing technique on something that has had the full nine pulled on it. Some people do, but a lot more don't.

    Until this conversation I thought I was alone in that opinion.