Reprolabels added and figure assembled. Not bad, it looks nice, still I can't make myself to transform him. ALT MODE PICS: *** PART 2 - painting the parts *** Here's the second part of my custom repaint project. The guy who was supposed to get me Cosmos Lac paints for this job got ahold of only the Flat Black, so I had to get Happy Color Blu Trafico from Saratoga instead. This is also a good paint brand, and this particular one is a very nice blue color, maybe a tad darker for Thundercracker, but much better than Azuro Chiaro from the same company, which was too light IMO. I chose to use spray paints because I am painting a 6" figure, not an inch and a half miniature. That means alot of flat surfaces, so painting with a brush is not recommended unless you don't mind seeing paintbrush strokes in the paint when it dries, or you're patient enough and can take your god damn sweet time by using a paper towel to get excess paint off your brush every god damn time you dip it in the paint. Which is what I did, when painting some areas on lower legs and upper arms in silver. I had to, because the only silver paint I got is a 3 years old Mithril Silver from Citadel that has started to thicken, so painting larger surfaces with it is a huge PAIN IN THE BUTT. I ordered a jar of Model Master Silver that should arrive Tuesday, so I'll start painting the chest then. You can use the paint in small plastic jars if you own an airbrush. I don't, so in general I went with spray paints. I'm over budget on this project as it is, so getting a silver paint in a spray can was out of the question, hence the ordered Model Master Silver for the chest. Now, the main thing to keep in mind is that after applying paint it needs to dry, and for it dry properly it is best to suspend the painted part so it doesn't touch any surface. For all the TC parts I used toothpicks that I wedged inside every appropriate hole I could find and that could hold the weight of the part securely. I also used them as leverage for holding the parts while spray painting them. You can see an examples of that in these pictures: Wings were another matter. For them I used Energon Divebomb's clear green hatchets which I masked with tape. These weapons have standard 4.5mm pegs on both ends, the same peg size that TC's launchers have for their pegs. I stuck the wings on the handles of these weapons (via the pegholes on TC's wings) and used them for leverage when painting. I used the pegs on the other ends of these weapons (used for attaching them to Divebomb in his alt mode) as handles, so that he can hold them and act as an anchor while the wings dried. Before you start painting the parts, pick the parts you want to paint and think about how they are used for both modes and during transformation. This is important because you must know which areas of these parts need to be painted or not. Areas that are not visible in both modes, or come in contact with other surfaces should be left unpainted because it is better for them to be uniformly unpainted that sport paintchips, at least IMO. That also means they must be masked with masking tape. You can clearly see the masking tape on the tailwing assemblies as well as the feet in the picture I posted above. I applied two coats of paint on all parts (apart from the lower legs and upper arms, as I just painted them with silver). I let the first coat dry for an hour, and then applied the second coat. I clearcoated the parts with clear paint the next day, so the main paint would have enough time to dry properly. I didn't clearcoat the wings as of yet, as I'm waiting for a set of reprolabels with wing stripes for TC. I did this (or didn't do it - whichever you prefer ) because the clear paint I'm using is gloss, and stickers don't apply very well on gloss paints. I will clearcoat the wings after I apply the stickers. As you can deduce from all of this the bulk of the job was done with spray paints, but certain areas (like the lower legs, upper arms and the head) where done by hand. I used two brushes for this - one "000" brush (3 zeros) and a "1" brush. For recessed areas and the TC's face I used the thinner brush, for everything else I used the thicker one (this "1" is a Raphael brand, awesome brush, holds the tip together marvelously, no splitting hairs what so ever). This is it for now, folks. I'll post more when I paint the chest and have more info. EDIT: Forgot to mention a very important thing. Wear a latex glove or a plastic glove I've seen janitors use in their line of work, or if you can't find them use the plastic freezer bags to cover your hand with which your are holding the parts (by their appropriate toothpics). You don't want to end up painted blue like a Smurf (in this case that is).