3D Printed Transformers Thread

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Zoingo, Jul 12, 2020.

  1. WednesdayQuest

    WednesdayQuest Well-Known Member

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    ^^ could I get a link to your cults page? I can't seem to find it
     
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  2. Steelshadow69

    Steelshadow69 Autobot Jolt Enjoyer

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    Here you go!
    sergiu
     
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  3. Synbios

    Synbios Well-Known Member

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    Deception Targetmasters '86 wave done!! Will be uploading the files inba few days. 20240525_170423.jpg
     

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  4. RePUGnicon

    RePUGnicon A very indecisive individual

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    Status Report: Finished up the connection to attach the filler to the leg
    Screenshot 2024-05-25 182314.png
    Screenshot 2024-05-25 182724.png Screenshot 2024-05-25 182731.png
     
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  5. Synbios

    Synbios Well-Known Member

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  6. ambitron

    ambitron Well-Known Member

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    Practising mouths, based on a variety of figures I have around my office:

    mouths-test2.jpg
     
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  7. raoh123

    raoh123 Manga Artist

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    Delta Magnus head and chest replacement for Hasbro Titans Return PMOP
    (since I got the Takara Ginrai already)
    Delta.PNG
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2024
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  8. GT2

    GT2 Well-Known Member

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    A question for the FDM creators out there...

    Has anyone tried or made good use of hybrid-PLA filament? I've worked with regular PLA/PLA+ a little with ABS and again with the rubbery TPU for things like tyres, but occasionally I see spools of PLA with added materials such as wood, carbon fibre or other such things.

    It's a bit wasteful to get a whole roll of something if it's really not worth the time and effort, especially if it creates extra wear on the nozzle etc, so I thought I'd see if anyone here has had any particular successes.

    Thanks in advance!
     
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  9. Chaos Studios

    Chaos Studios Traditional Animator/Storyboard Artist

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    Finally made a 3d print of metroplex's gun that I lost years ago!
     

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  10. oneyouknowleast

    oneyouknowleast Well-Known Member

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    Looks Great
     
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  11. RePUGnicon

    RePUGnicon A very indecisive individual

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  12. neurotictim

    neurotictim XTB and FT fanboy, coexisting with myself.

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    Ever look at someone and think, "I just know a village somewhere is missing its idiot?"

    It me.

    I installed the silicone bed spacer mod on my Anycubic Kobra 2 Max, and spent well over an hour leveling with a straightedge and depth gauge. Felt pretty good about the result; that bed was flat. Set zero offset using a purpose-designed file with a brand new, freshly opened roll of gray Elegoo PLA, and everything was looking pretty good. Ran a Benchy and he came out well - maybe not the smoothest, cleanest Benchy ever, but certainly within my tolerance for general purpose printing.

    So, feeling pretty good about things, I started a 6ish hour print, a basic stand I designed to display a full-size dragon priest mask from Skyrim I recently finished. Brim printed clean, so I grabbed wifey and we headed down to the oceanfront boardwalk for our weekly walk, usually a 2-3 hour affair where we walk and talk with no phones or other distractions.

    Came home to another big, fat glob of material jammed all up in the print head. Bulged out insulator cover on the hot end, PLA globbed all the way up and around the fan housing, surrounding the thermistor wiring, all of it - every bit as bad or worse than 3D Printed Transformers Thread from almost exactly a month ago.

    :rip  :sigh:

    I cleared it all out and cleaned it thoroughly last night, but damn. I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing wrong, but suddenly it seems I'm having bed adhesion issues, and they started before I replaced the stainless steel spacers with silicone - in fact, the poor adhesion was a motivating factor for doing the mod. I've got a pretty steep backlog of things I want to get done so it's going to have to be a priority, but at the end of the day it's "just" a 3D printer so I can't drop all my other responsibilities to figure it out. I'm already running at less than half speed - 120mm/s - but I guess the next thing is to slow down even more and see what happens.

    :banghead: 
     
  13. raoh123

    raoh123 Manga Artist

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    Thanks to @Fostorial for the free Micromaster base figs!
    A companion figure to my Delta Magnus, Diaclone Powered Buggy aka Powerdrive
    Buggy.PNG Convoy.PNG
     
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  14. Fostorial

    Fostorial Well-Known Member

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    @raoh123 that's cool! Glad you found the template useful.

    The latest target master templates finally have a ball joint I think I'm happy with for PLA. Just whack a glob of polyurethane in and it's holding up pretty so well far on the test print!
     
  15. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    To me it sounds like your z offset is too high, especially if the only change was bed spacers. I use purple glue stick for adhesion, all the time, every time. Yeah, a clean bed of the proper material is supposed to work without it, but it works so well and has zero impact on the prints, so why not. I've had three different printers and tried all kinds of beds, I've used it on all of them and never had adhesion issues (assuming autolevel mesh is calibrated/used and z offset is good). Simple to apply, wipes off easily, there's no reason to not use it IMO.

    I suggest putting down a layer of it and running a bed level/adhesion calibration print test.

    BTW, you print at 120mm/s speed, and that's HALF of normal? That's insane to me. I do everything at 50-60 mm/s usually. I guess if your printer can handle that speed good on you, but in my experience speed is a killer that can cause all kinds of issues. 250 mm/s is not a print speed I can imagine a home printer doing quality prints with. Maybe I just need a new printer.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2024
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  16. RePUGnicon

    RePUGnicon A very indecisive individual

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    I have way too much time on my hands rn. So I made replicas of the guns that came included with UW-04 Constructicon/Devastator Gift set
    Collection Link
    UW Bonecrusher Gun1.png UW Hook Gun1.png UW Long Haul Gun1.png
    UW Mixmaster Gun1.png UW Scavenger Gun1.png UW Scrapper Gun1.png
     
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  17. Fostorial

    Fostorial Well-Known Member

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    Personally, it was the universal monsters transformers. I always wanted them to exist as kids then when we finally got them, they were underwhelming. Dracula is just mindwipe with cape kibble. His clawed hands are cool though. Then they finally announce Frankenstein and it's just a futuristic tank thing?

    So I started learning to eventually make the universal monsters transformers. But it's been a long road and a lot to learn and I've only got a few. Have learned lots and got new stuff though which is cool.

    As for advice, I'd say start smaller and work up. Making a full size deluxe was hard that first time and takes a while to 3d print parts. Much easier learning on a smaller scale project. It's why I have so many micromasters, headmasters and target masters (also happen to love this gimmicks too).

    Look at existing toys that are close to what you want. The transformations scheme youre after exists already like 80 percent of the time or at least something close to it that you can modify. Video reviews are good for this too. See it move without having to buy every toy under the sun.

    Pages like this help:
    Micromaster - Transformers Wiki
    Transformers Instructions Database

    I personally start all of my projects with a simple block version to test the transformation first then add detail. Detailing takes hours, big squares and cylinders don't. I usually save these blocks as template files and share them for free on my cults pages. That way, people can learn from them, people like you can get a jump start and I don't have to start from scratch each time I do something different.

    Fostorial

    Finally, it takes time. And my first few sucked but I didn't care. Loved em. Only just now finally created a ball joint that works pretty well for pla (if you whack glue or nail polish in, it's still pla) and I guess I've been doing this for a couple of years now.

    I've loved it though. I'd say it's my main hobby now. And Les to other things too like custom stuff I make for the kids toys, things round the house etc because of the skills I've learned.
     
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  18. neurotictim

    neurotictim XTB and FT fanboy, coexisting with myself.

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    I always appreciate your input, my friend. This thread, and the experienced folks still contributing to it, have helped me immensely already.

    That being said, I spent an eternity of time yesterday working on this issue without much luck. The only things I can say for 100% certainty is that my bed is level within thousandths of an inch on the dial gauge (thanks to YouTube creator Mark Foor) and that my Z offset is correct (-1.73 with silicone spacers) in the center of the bed. A couple of notes you may find interesting or relevant -

    #1 - the Kobra 2 Max advertises speeds up to 300mm/s. I knew that was BS from the start, and extensive conversations with @TigerBlade confirmed it. 120mm/s, with all the associated acceleration figures cut in half from factory setting, has yielded some very nice results. Virtually everything I've posted so far has been at 120, fwiw. I will absolutely try slowing it down even more today after work, to see if that makes a significant difference.

    #2 - I just realized this while talking to a friend a few minutes ago, and I have to say the village idiot strikes again! I spent hours printing test squares, followed by a few other Z offset/calibration prints, but it never even crossed my mind to run the auto-level after adjusting everything. So the damned printer was trying to compensate for the bed as it was when I first installed and leveled the bed on the new spacers. Which absolutely would explain why my results were so inconsistent despite the bed being mechanically level. This was with Elegoo gray, 215° nozzle, 65° bed, 120mm/s:

    20240530_193916.jpg

    The only thing I can't really figure out is why the test strip shows uneven extrusion, and I suspect it's because this last big goop-up of the print head caused something else to go out of whack. I've now got a couple of new print heads and a few hot ends on the way. I'm going to take apart the current one when the new ones arrive so I can better understand all the pieces and how they work, but I won't be surprised to find some melted PLA was forced into somewhere it shouldn't be.

    But between now and then, I'm going to try slowing down the print, but I'm also going to verify (AGAIN!) the trueness of the bed, then run auto leveling, as I should have done yesterday. I'm also going to be stopping on the way home (Lowe's is literally on the way, conveniently) to grab a pack of purple glue sticks.
     
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  19. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan OFFICIAL MMM REP

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    It's a good idea to rerun the auto-level mesh after every few prints. Does you printer FW have a bed mesh viewer? Looks like your bed has some high spots around the outside. Even with autolevel, nothing beats a flat build plate. No plate will ever be truly level, but one trick I've found is that putting a strip of aluminum foil in the low spots between the heat bed and plate will help. If the bed is really warped, you might need two layers of foil. It raises the low spots just enough to compensate. My printer uses bed clamps to hold everything down, not sure if that will work on yours, looks like it's a magnetic plate maybe?

    After a lot of work I've got my build plate to +/- .05mm across all points of the bed. It's not perfect, but .05mm is easy to compensate for in the mesh.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2024
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  20. neurotictim

    neurotictim XTB and FT fanboy, coexisting with myself.

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    Yep, magnetic PEI plate, and underneath are 8 screws that can be tightened or loosened with a hex bit in very fine increments. I have a heavy-duty straight edge and I check for trueness with a flashlight behind it - and I have to pat myself on the back a bit here because that build plate is flat. I also used Mark Foor's dial gauge adapter clipped to the print head to verify empirically, so take my word for it - what you see in that pic is the result of Anycubic's bed leveling program.

    I'll have to check the firmware, I'm not sure if it does or not to be honest. It might be in the Anycubic slicer software, but I don't know.

    The bigger thing is that what the pic doesn't show is how many tries I had to give it before getting the PLA to stick enough to get that result. It would stick okay in a straight line, but when the print head changed direction, it would just not stick and end up dragging around a bunch of material. I'm very interested in the results of auto level and glue sticks; I clean the build plate more or less after every print with alcohol as is, is that how you clean the glue residue or is there some other method I should know?