Heavy/Scratch: TF Prime RID AIRACHNID upgrade set [Shapeways]

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by cnomis, Jul 2, 2013.

  1. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    thx the opinions, ve no plan on other Predacons unless they show up in the episode.

    Abt replace arm or leg for the Queen, Mr. fb ve been work it out & couldn't make it, he is one of the expert so i dun think it ll work out either.

    Let s pray Hasbro will make a BH version of her.
     
  2. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    thx dude.

    Something coming out my head, is anyone interesting in the gears of Ultra Magnus? Just u could find in the beginning of Beast Hunters & the episode "Synthesis".
     
  3. changepas39

    changepas39 Well-Known Member

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    I will definitely be getting those hands as soon as I get paid!!!!!
     
  4. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    here u go, my version of rotors.
     

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  5. RapierDragon

    RapierDragon New Member

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    Shapeways Airachnid "queen set" legs

    Rather than paint, which would cover/hide the detail line-work (like the little "round" valley-lines where a joint would be, similar to various bumps and lines you'd find on some TF's and high-quality Gundam toys) I used colored permanent markers. (mainly black). Shapeways plastic really absorbs marker-ink well, and while you can't see the detail work in my photos, up-close you can still see it. I may use a little paint to paint-on/paint-in the detail-lines (so a 2nd set of photos may be coming).

    These two pic's show rotor-form and spider-leg form, but are without Deluxe Airachnid (to give you an idea of how it looks). Once I'm satisfied with coloring/painting and sanding the parts, I'll post some more pictures of the parts with Airachnid in fully glory.

    I've only had two problems. Both can be fixed with a little sanding.

    Once sanded to fix a few fitting issues.

    (1) After using a marker, the long legs won't slip into the C-shape part of the inner rotor (I took a pic with one under the inner-rotor, and another leg just sitting on top). The parts were ordered in WSF Polished, and did slide in before I markered them, so I can only guess the material "swelled up" some when it absorbed the marker-ink. A little sanding should fix the problem.

    (2) The central "nub" will fit the hole for Airachnid's rotor nicely, but I cannot fit it into the "central hub" for the rotors. Even before I markered the parts, it wouldn't fit. The hole needs to be made a bit bigger.

    I know the rotor isn't really meant to spin freely, but the connecting-nub and 6-rotor-hub just don't fit together. They probably could be redesigned to be printed as a single piece. Or if it is meant to spin freely, it could have that bump at one end removed in favor of a few holes, so the nub would fit through the center hole in the 6-rotor-hub and then a paperclip or toothpick could be glued in to lock the connecting nub in. (i did a sample diagram up and added it to my comment/post on shapeways).
     

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  6. EnergonWaffles

    EnergonWaffles Autobot's Head Chef Veteran

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    If you ever came out with a shapeways set that helped convert BH Starscream into Airachnid's robot mode, you'd be my heroes. I swear I see more painted BH Starscreams used as Airachnid these days than the actual Airachnid mold. :/
     
  7. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    thx for posting pics, again, ur report re most detail one.

    As i ve answered in Shapeways, in case smone could not see, i explain here once more.

    The hub is able to spin, as i ve been test many times. the head of the nub, the joints, C-clip on legs bla bla bla is designed to just fit or tide. It is becoz of the over polish issue or the 3D print out comes thinner is usually happen, especially in small printings.

    Sanding or cut out may need but compare with a wider clip or over size hole, i chose to make it fit.

    i hope these issue would be a headache, & hope u guys' print outs will not under/ over print.

    P.S. the big head of nub seems hard to push into the hub nicely, all u need to do is not sanding but push it with one side, then push the opposite side, done after repeat a few times. i will try to take some pics show how the spinner install. hope will help ^^
     
  8. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    becoz i ve not try or plan to do Airachnid from a screamy, i think i wont do unless there is someone 's commission job. thx for ur asking~~
     
  9. EnergonWaffles

    EnergonWaffles Autobot's Head Chef Veteran

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    np thanks for replying :) 
     
  10. Lodril

    Lodril Poet of Destruction

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    Please do post some tutorial pics on that connection. I've tried and tried, but can't figure out how to get that thing in, and am worried I'll break it.
     
  11. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    u may be new to Shapeways, all WSF materials re strong enough, so dun worry.

    the clips or rotors u might find a bit tide, just push them in. little hint abt rotors plug together is, plug the mid of the leg (the circle joint thing) into the circle clip of the upper part first, then put them together.

    of coz i would like to take some vid sometime if u still find difficult to install them. cheers~~
     
  12. Plainsjumper

    Plainsjumper Well-Known Member

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  13. Lodril

    Lodril Poet of Destruction

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    The legs seem to go together just fine, but the central hub is very difficult to get onto the peg. I'm contemplating cutting a groove into the top of the peg, so it will have some give that will let it click into place in the central hub. I haven't been able to force it, and can't really see any other way to get it in there.
     
  14. Lodril

    Lodril Poet of Destruction

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    I cut a slot through the top of the peg, and it slid easily into the rotor hub. If there's any downside, it's that I wish I'd sanded down the inside of the rotor hub first, to make it spin a bit easier. It will still spin, but not easily. The legs, paired with the set of hands you did, really make this figure much, much nicer.

    If you're ever revisiting it, I'd suggest changing the part of that central peg to split it in half from the outset, and maybe make it thinner, to make the rotor spin more easily, but the spinning may not be all that desirable, since if it spins too freely, it would make it more difficult to pose in some modes.
     
  15. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    i get u. thx all of u. "balance" is the most difficult task when i make my queen, like a queen.
     
  16. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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  17. Incedius

    Incedius Well-Known Member

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    this is exactly what i need to fix the damn knees or lack of them!

    edit: wait actually i think the dragon heads might get in the way of these...
     
  18. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    Oh, u mean the clip? as i said, still dun test through, but the clips re thin, i dun think it will block by the dragon head.
     
  19. Incedius

    Incedius Well-Known Member

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    Correct me if I'm wrong. The peg with the ball goes on the bots that Form the feet while the socket part clips on the underside of the dragon head right. In that case the knee won't bend without the ball popping out.

    Or do you intend to have this assembled in a different way?
     
  20. cnomis

    cnomis Well-Known Member

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    If u mean a totally knee down is impossible. but i did a gap behind the hole of the upper part, so that he could make some move.