So I've been absent from the boards for about 2 years now, and as some of you know I've had most of my TFs in storage for about even longer than that.

Well I've decided that I'm going to cut my collection down considerably, and concentrate on MPs and making custom Alternators again.

I just dont have the room, and honestly the passion for hunting down TFs has died down considerably. while I was living in Japan, I was still buying them, and placing them in boxes since my apartment was TINY. But I was only buying with a completionist mindset, and not with the love I had before.

I going to start with TF Classics/Universe 2.0 type figures. I've got just about every release since the first wave, all the way upto the recent Chinese/TRU releases. All loose 99% of them are complete. With a few exceptions I'm looking get rid of them all, the question is how?

Do I lump these all together and a huge lot? Since I live in Germany now, and shipping single figures can be a pain in the ass (even though I still use US Postal Service to do it and pay USPS rates).

Or do I make smaller lots like Autobots/Decepticons or Seekers, Season 1's etc?

I have a few things that make peak some interest like:

• The Classics Prime/Magnus 2 pack that came out a while back, still sealed.
• MISB Shadow Scyther still in the original bubble wrap it shipped in
• 2x TFCON exclusive Powered commander armor sets MISB
• Hasbro Pepsi Prime MISB
• TFCC Punch counter punch still its original box/baggie
• TFCC SG Drift and Over-Run still original box/baggies

And probably a ton more stuff to be found once I dig through everything

I plan to do the same with my MOTUC collection too, but I'll leave that for another board

Any advice would be awesome.

 

The problem with a huge lot is twofold:

1. You'll get less money overall for it.

2. You'll have considerably less interest in it than if you split them up.

I can understand the whole "it's a pain in the ass to ship each figure individually" mindset, but it really comes down to how much these are worth to you.

Besides, it seems like you've got a reasonably large collection there with alot of rare and expense figures. Which means that an entire LOT of them would cost quite a bit. Who's gonna have that much spare cash lying around?

If you want my advice, split the lot up. You'll get alot more money for it, and probably quicker than it would be to try and find someone who wants the entire lot.

 

I second Leemaster777. If you sell a big lot of valuable figures, you probably won't maximize your return.

Save the large lots for junkers...or prominently advertise one really valuable figure in a lot with some junkers (if you really want to get rid of things).

 

Thanks for the heads up, once I inventory is done its off to the boards here and ebay.

Leemaster777, you said something interesting, Are there any in the 'CHUG' line that are considered "rare and expense figures"?

 

Also, does anyone know what the German equivalent of this site would be? I'd like to see if there is any interest there.

 

Well, just of the few you listed there, Punch/Counterpunch is $120, easy. But stuff that expensive is mainly reserved for Botcon and TFCC stuff.

Out of the retail figures? Jetfire runs for $40 (or more), as does Classics Optimus Prime. Sunstreaker and Sideswipe can run between $20-$40 (there doesn't seem to be much consistency other than that range). Mirage can run around $30. Granted, this is all for loose items. The price is quite a bit higher for boxed items.

As a rule, Henkei items are the most expensive, followed by Classics, then Universe, then RTS/Generations (RTS and Generations can be bought pretty easily at retail prices nowadays).

Really, if you're looking for a really good guide for pricing individual figure, check the boards, and check completed eBay listings for a good idea of what to ask.

And if you're looking to sell, I'd suggest selling on the boards here FIRST, then moving the leftovers to eBay. Besides the eBay fees, eBay auctions always have that chance that you'll get screwed by a low bidder. The boards are much more consistent, reliable, friendly, and have a significantly lower chance of getting screwed, if you're smart.