I would take a look at the feeder mechanism, it doesn't look like your printer have a spring adjustment but it's possible that one of the plastic parts have started cracking and is not pulling as hard as it should.
Hey guys, been a little while since my last update. Still working on F-for-Feasant-Designs Big Dog. Whats taking so long is I'm doing 3 size variations. My usual size, G1 size and Seige/Legacy size. Originally I was going to leave it at one size, but the amount of messages I get about asking if it'll fit this scale or that scale, I decided to pre-emt. Then I realised that just scaling it down causes several issues ( tolerances, part thickness etc)..add work into the mix and...yeah. Anyways, Seige scale is now done, hopefully G1 scale wont take as long, lol. 
Thanks, he'll look even sweeter once painted up. Not going to do that until I've got the issues with the G1 scale version ironed out though.
I think this might be a good place to ask. On shapeways what material would be better to print in for a hinge joint? White Natural plastic or PA12?
Ive never used PA12, but that's a nylon based filament correct? I guess it comes, down to use case. From what I know of PA12 its fairly resiliant, but no idea what its like for mechanical purposes.
So I'm at the planning stage for a couple customs, which I'll need to fabricate new parts in one manner or another. I've been hearing that resin printing has come a long way, with some of the newer resins. Are they strong and flexible enough to hold up to the rigors of being handled and transformed (or knocked off a shelf by mischievous cats)? Or is resin still at the point where you'd really just use it for display pieces?
Love it! How's your Titan Master Thundertank coming along? Honestly it depends on the resin. Imo, most resins are still more display only, however they can take a good amount of handling. As for being cat safe.....is anything?
There are some pretty good durable resins that don't break as easily and have some flex though most still fall victim to friction. Moving parts will kind of grind themselves to powder. The one exception I know of is MiniQ T4 nylon-like resin which is pretty damn survivable for friction, though it only comes in two colors last I checked - a greenish grey and black. I got some but it was shortly before I moved early this year and I've never had a chance to get my printer set up since then, so I can't go into more than that and I don't know how hell it'll hold paint. It's also fairly pricey but check it out: The other thing you can do for friction is coat the friction points with either another resin (I've had some success with UV glue) or I also find that a silicone lubricant helps it hold up, though I haven't put anything under extensive testing to see just how long that'll last.
Finally fixed that broken stl of my Hot Rodimus head for my POTP Hot Rod. Took me a while to find out why it keep on failing lmao
Hi, does anyone know where I can find an stl file of an mpm 6 ironhide shoulder fix? The only ones I can find are in different countries and I have a 3d printer at my university.
It was a the nozzle! So, here's my attempt at a G2 Blackout. This is not ToyMakr3D's best work. The waist snapped in half constantly and these are the 5th side skirts. The face isn't great, and none of the tabs want to clip in correctly. I had to shave off almost all the tabs and glue everything in place. You can see the scuff marks on the cockpit where I used a pair of pliars to try and seat everything correctly. I originally thought "Oh, I could have a dozen custom colored Seekers." Now I am much less sure. I don't love some of the print layouts and the design choices used. The articulation is good, but compared to his later work like Jetfire or Godzilla, this is showing its age. And yeah, the face still sucks.
Here’s a freeway head in yellow. No visible layer lines. Printed at ,04 layer height. I have an ender 6 fully calibrated. I replaced the springs with silicons spacers, .2 nozzle, 2 5015 fans for cooling attached via the hero me system, a bondtech lgx extruder with copperhead heartbreak set up for direct drive.
I modified a CW foot that I found online. Added the same rachet system like the CW foot have/ Now just got test the print.