You mean the one that comes with buzzworthy bumblebee?

 

Yep! I kept thinking where I saw it before, even checked if it was Dr Wu's.

Thanks man. I didn't buy that Bumblebee yet.

 

Unfortunately names sometimes stick. I know people who still call the applicable items Opal Fruits, Jif & Marathon and many of the people that use those names would have been too young to remember the changes.

 

Ooooh, sorry  

 

I live in Canada, and I've just never really been sure what product people are really talking about, and how exactly people are using it.

I usually just use a bottle of cheap clear nail polish I bought years ago -- mostly for ball-joints, but occasionally I can get it to work for friction joints.

z

 

What companies have made KO’s of MP03 and 11? I want to make a complete set of seekers using those molds.

Also, I can’t find this Thrust to save my life. This is the BEST I’ve seen. I know it’s old. But I love the maroon on the waist and thighs.

 

It's just liquid acrylic.

Yes Model YM-05


There's one on Shopee.sg, you'll likely needs a middle man. https://shopee.sg/Transformers-Yes-Model-YM-YM-05-Thrust-i.2269893.2589948971

 

Not promising a complete list, but...

MP-3: iGear is to my knowledge the only one. They made the core three, the Coneheads and Sunstorm as regular releases. A G2 Ramjet, a clear seeker and an Acid Storm (more based on a Cybertronian seeker) were only released as pre-production samples. There was also a plan for a blue Rainmaker (Ion Storm) which was reviewed by Peaugh.

(I also once saw pictures of chrome red version, but I don't think it was ever made of even if was as KO.)

MP-11:
- there are unbranded KO's of at least Starscream
- Yes Model: core three with two versions of SW and TC, Coneheads (not TT KO's), Sunstorm, clear purple Skywarp, G2 Ramjet (I think), green scream and a gold chrome version. They also announced Bitstream, Hotlink & Nacelle, but those never happened.
- KBB: core three and alternate versions of Coneheads. Note that these KO's are MP-11 KO's with parts from MP-3 (chest, pelvis) and the Coneheads borrow from the iGear versions.
- Robot Hero (oversized): core three, with Starscream both in MP-3 Walmart and TT colours (SW and TC are MP-6/7 TT colours). There are pre-orders for Sunstorm and Acid Storm, but those never happened.
- another OS KO of at least Starscream.

 

But where does one buy liquid acrylic at a good price?

z

 

When people say "future" they actually mean Pledge Floor Gloss. Personally, I didn't care for it. It's messy and takes flipping forever to dry. I personally prefer a clear acrylic hobby paint (I use Tamiya, but any will do). They dry much faster---even with multiple coats---and seem to bond a bit more permanently in my experience.

Very annoying for somebody when they get into this hobby. I started seriously collecting TFs again three years ago, give or take. People suggesting "future" was incomprehensible and led to three pages to get one person to finally, begrudgingly admit it was called Pledge. It was an extreme exercise in frustration.

 

@daimchoc

Thank you so much for the link. If you are familiar may I pay you to be my middle?

If not is anyone familiar and are willing to help.

 

Thanks so much.

 

What everyone calls Future has (frustratingly) had its name changed several times in the last few years. The first bottle I got was called Pledge Floor Finish. I think this is the stuff now. It doesn't have Future on the label at all anymore. I just got a new bottle and it smells a bit different from the older one. I hope the change in fragrance doesn't indicate a change in performance.



I've used it for joints a couple of times. It's mostly a paint additive for me. I use it with some water to thin craft paint so it can apply more evenly without streaking. It also cures to a more durable finish. A lot of people also use it as a clear coat.

 

Hi, sorry to bother you but could you tell me the name of the gold figure in those pictures ?

 

It's a variant of dragonforce, but I can't tell you the exact name... Anyway this is the link to the shop where I bought it
16.8US $ 40% OFF|Steel Flying Dragon Deformation Toy King Kong Robot Puppet Card Overlord Dinosaur Hand made Model Children's Educational Toy Hol|Transformer/Robot| - AliExpress

 

Thank you.

 

Do you thin your acrylic paint before applying?

I tend to apply them on really loose joints, and since they're so loose, I don't thin it. Often, I have to apply 2 coats.

Been using this method for 2 years, but I'm wondering about the long term effects of acrylic paint.

I applied it on the super loose hips of my BMB OSKO Slag, which are peg joints. After drying, I assembled the legs back, and it was tight.

I played around with it for a few weeks, and then I didn't touch it for a year. When I picked it up again, one of the legs was frozen, and I snapped the entire leg off trying to move it.

I don't know if you leave it alone for too long, if the paint will harden and freeze joints.

 

Someone has or had in their sig a link to a somewhat glowing review of Vallejo branded reducer. It's not necessarily the cheapest option available if you buy the 60ml (~2 fl.oz) bottles but starts to become more reasonable once you move up to the 200ml (~6.7 fl.oz) ones. So long as it works well and lasts it's probably money well spent even with the smaller ones, since it's still under half the cost of the infamous Kiki these days.

However, it does proudly boast that it's a water-based acrylic polyurethane. Another product which meets that description is water-based varnish (NB Not "oil modified" - straight water). Flooring or decking varnishes should also be extremely hard wearing. I've used it myself experimentally (Cabothane and British Paints branded), thinning it up to 50/50 with tap water to help it flow (and stretch it further). Just make sure to get the gloss stuff, since matte and satin have additives to get their finish.

 

Thanks for the input, guys!  

 

I mean, in theory the acrylic medium shouldn't do much to the plastic on the figure, but maybe whatever solvent is used to keep it liquid might affect the surface plastic?

I've noticed with the nail polish (which is basically a clear acrylic enamel anyway) that sometimes I get a slight hardening of the joint if a figure is left for a long time... but extremely rarely, and never strong enough to threaten the joint. Could be the floor polish is a bit more hardcore?

It could also be a fluke... anyone else have stories about stuff like that happening on stuff they've applied polish to?

z

 

I picked up a bottle of this at Walmart for <$7 in 2018, still using the same bottle. I just paint it on ball joints and dab it into hinges with a Q-tip (my apologies, cotton swab). You do have to be patient to let it dry, but it's easy to apply and cheap, no problems yet.
Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss - Restores and Protects Sealed Wood Floors, 1 Bottle, 27 Ounce - Walmart.com