Little miss Muffet she sat on her tuffet, eating her curds eating and whey
Along came a spider who sat down beside her
QUICK! MISS MUFFET NEEDS THE BUG SPRAY!

 

I swapped the spider legs between Blackarachnia and Whackarachnia, and they both look better for it. Well, Blackarachnia looks better anyway. I don't know if anything will help the other one.

 

Ugh, I know right? That yellow thing didn't even try.

In all seriousness, absolutely loving both versions.

 

Cons:

This toy contained the most useless instructions that I have ever seen . . .

The hinge system is scary AF. The center section of it (that forms the core/chest) is really thin and flimsy feeling.

I thought I was missing a joint in the knees because they feel like they are going to snap off during the step where you flare out the thigh panels and collapse them to the thighs (which doesn't exist anywhere in the instructions).

The breastplate tab is complete overkill just like Kingdom Cheetor's hinge tab (and the tiny beast neck tab), Kingdom Tracks's official transformation for the hood/windshield tabs, and 01 Studio's Cell's/Unicron's leg to chest tabs.

I can't wait for the beast mode fangs to break off during transformation and, for the hand/pincer paint to scrape off from the weapon peg.

Everything about this was a nightmare compared to, well, everything.

The only reason this toy is selling and/or being kept is because it's Blackarachnia. If it was anyone else, the lack of sales and returns would be astronomical.

I wish the robot groin that doubles as a beast mode butt with eyes had a smaller v-taper since it hinders the hip articulation and that area being smaller wouldn't affect the best mode functionality.

Speaking of the hips, are both hips supposed to move front to back when you're only moving one of them? I can move them individually but, only if I forcibly hold one in place. It's almost like nothing is separating the hip joints inside the groin which lets them catch on each other.

Pros:

The robot mode is gorgeous though and, I prefer the black legs compared to the gold ones (at least in robot mode). I'm all for show accuracy (in this case BW) right up until something flows better or balances out a deco. I feel like the shoulders and their paudrons/spaulders doubling as the beast mode head pincers (along with all the exposed kibble) provides enough gold in beast mode for this toy. The actual BW Blackarachnia needed the gold legs to break up all the black in beast mode so, I get why they had to be gold in robot mode.


Closing thoughts (purchase):

I payed $15 for this and I honestly can't decide how I feel about that. The robot mode is more refined than the TE legends Blackarachnia (which I do not own and am not interested in) but the TE Blackarachnia has a vastly better beast mode (even though it uses some parts forming to cover up some of the kibble). Kingdom Blackarachnia is obviously the best mass release version in existence but, my issues with it ultimately make it a place holder and why I keep saying that KBW is to BW as POTP was to G1. They are still finding their footing for BW and, it will be spectacular once they do so and hit their stride.

 

Oh good it wasn't just me that had issues with the breast tab. Aside from the breast tab, It she is a great figure. I too worry about her breaking easily. Kingdom beast wars figures are much more fragile than the original beast wars figures TT.

I actually was looking on this thread for a fix. If it gets too bad I might just get a second blackarachnia and keep one in one mode and one in the other mode but glued like I do with my Doubledealer

 

Just picked this figure up and she’s pretty amazing. The instructions were shit but after watching a video, its actually a pretty neat and fun transformation. Articulation is great, wish her legs swung forward more tho. I can look past no waist swivel because of transformation. Seems like they fixed the breast tab issue as mine takes no where near the force everyone says they need, mines a simple tab and un-tab.

 

This is amazing, just saw Cheftrons video on the swap as well.

Went right to Ebay and picked up this 4Pack Blackarachnia for 27bucks shipped.

Fine by me!

Cant wait to make the swap!!!

Too bad the feet are pinned, would've been great to give her the purple feet as well.

 

Iwas chilling this morning, transforming blackarachnia for fun.
The tried to place the gun underneath the spider mode.
It didn't snapped in, but a claw snapped right off !

I'm getting very very tired of those more and more expensive yet more and more badly constructed and fragile toys.

It can't be repaired. My only option is to snap the claw on the other arm to get symetry back.

 

Mine broke, managed to repair it with some model cement and patience and hasnt griefed me or broken since

Still fragile af, but it's doable

 

Yeah I hate how fragile Black Arachnia looks. The newer toys look so fragile and I hate it. I remember when my older beast wars figs could take even a fall

 

dunno how much luck you'll have, but Mr. Cement has been a lifesaver for me when it comes to attaching tiny parts that broke off back on and then some. Recently "repaired" a universe hot shot whose right arm could not stay on because one of the friction bumps holding it to the body was too small. I glued a small bit of plastic from one of those plastic ties modern transformers come with onto it, cut it down to size, reattached the arm, and now it's dead solid.

 

without re-reading this whole thread - does anyone know what the serial numbering is from where the regular Kingdom BAs are supposed to see that running change to the length of the boobplate-tab, similar to the WorldsCollide BA?

 

Seems to be 02900 onwards. I have 03521 with the shortened tab.

 

Am I crazy or is the number on the inside of her right calf, not the right one?
Just bought another BA trying to get a good serial number, but appears to be exactly the same number? This got to be the wrong thing

 

The number printed on the figure is the same for all of them, idk what it's called.

The number you're looking for is debossed on the packaging, should be in the lower right corner on the back of the box.

 

LOT Numbers:

The embossed number on the packaging is the LOT number. With perishable goods (anything with a "best buy", "sell by", "use by", "dispose after", etc. date) the LOT number and or batch code is when the item was produced (if it's not a single dry ingredient) and packaged. Other goods (even when manufactured in vastly smaller quantities) use the same system because, it's a tracking metric so that the manufacturer can easily identify everything contained in it in case there is a product recall or something that they need to investigate complaints, concerns, and so on. No one has any knowledge of how large each LOT is because, that's confidential internal data.


The molded/stamped/engraved/painted numbers/codes:

These are all on the actual toy and, they are all related to product identification.

e.g. KBW Blacckarachnia and all modern Transformers have:

• A printed/tampo'd number/code which is the assortment number identification. This will match the "Asst." number/code on the package. This number/code can also be engraved/stamped like it is on Cyberverse deluxe BaF Bumblebee/Grimlock/Megatron/Shockwave.

• A raised molded number/code which is the manufacturing location identification. This will match the number/code on the package located by all the "Made In" text.

• An engraved/stamped number which AFAIK no one at Hasbro/TakaraTomy has ever explicitly stated what they are used for. This won't match the LOT number on the package unless your copy defies statistical odds (it's possible the LOT code is a reserved number that will never be used on anything other than the package). However, the engraved/stamped numbers on the toy can and do change. They are different on both of my Cyberverse Spark Armor Shockwaves (the packages have different LOT numbers that are higher numerically) and both of my Cyberverse deluxe BaF Megatrons (the packages have identical LOT numbers which are numerically higher and the toys are 10 numbers apart). The hypothesis is that these are also related to LOT numbers or batch numbers but, they can and will be numerically lower and higher (enough to be in an entirely different range) than the LOT number. You can tell that each one of the numbers in the sequence of engraved/stamped numbers is manually applied with something similar to a number punch because, each number in the sequence is never level to the rest of the numbers in the sequence and some even have a skewed/warped perspective compared to the others. These might be serial numbers but, there is no easy way to test that even a "small" production run like the 1985 Walmart exclusive version of Gigawatt because of the volume and the inability to source a dataset about even something basic like the LOT number on the package. There is no way in any version of the multiverse that anyone would be able to form a dataset on general release mass retail items from Hasbro/TakaraTomy if those are serial numbers because, it means that they would have made at least 92,801 Cyberverse Spark Armor Shockwaves and at least 92,561 Cyberverse USS (ultra Seismic Stomp) Grimlocks.

 

Thanks guys, last question - how easy is it to pop off BA's head?

looks like the front & back halves are glued together (no visible pins/screws), and the yellow neck's ball joint inside the head?
Looking at it from underneath, looks pretty big - would be worried about snapping the ball joint off if attempted to yank off

 

It is glued in. The glue on mine has worn off, not sure how, but the friction holding it together is enough to keep it on. I did have it pop off recently, but it wen't back on.
A hair dryer might be enough to melt the glue holding it in place, though I've never had any luck getting the heads open on any other figure. As long as you don't apply too much force you should be fine. You'll know if the glue has come undone if it comes apart effortlessly.

 

It's unlikely to yank off though? Like I'd HAVE to split apart the two glued portions of the head, to get the head off the neck

If your BA's head pieces are holding together by friction, able to take a pic of (the yellow neck's ball joint) inside one of the head halves?

Basically I'm curious to know if I yank on this head, is the neck gonna break