All back together, nice and tight now:

 

Brilliant work @David Hingtgen . How did you manage to file/machine that rail off without touching or damaging the surrounding area?

 

About 90-95% of it was using a ball-cutter tip on a Dremel:


And about as slow as it'll go. Many light passes. The final remnants were X-Acto and sanding-stick for clean-up.

I mainly cut from the side of the rail, but now that I've done it, I do believe my earlier plan would work----to file down the top section of the rail, only making it thinner instead of removing it entirely. I think removing half the height of the upper rail would give enough room. That could be done with a small file or sanding stick.

 

I'm sorry for being clueless, but what exactly is it that you did/achieved with these alterations?
Have only transformed mine twice, so not sure what's happening.

 

Being able to fully close the back-plate, with the toy-version silver chest installed, like the toon-version could. Comparison of the two chest-plates before the mod:


Now I can fully close it with either chest installed.

 

Ah, I see.
I prefer the toon version so never bothered.

 

I just got my ratchet disassembled, Where is it that I apply the oil at to make it less stiff? Here's an image.

 

It'll spread around so exactly where you place it isn't critical, but I would focus on "the outside and inside, of the blue part that is still sitting in the shoulder". From what I could tell from mine, there was a lot of friction on that piece, preventing it from moving up and down freely, which basically "locked" the spring in place, making the ratchet only semi-functional. Lubing it so it could move up and down freely, frees the spring to move so the ratchet can function as intended. The "teeth" will automatically get oiled from the oil spreading around. A tiny micro-drop on the teeth themselves would be ok, if you want to be certain they're oiled "immediately upon re-assembly". But just oil like 1 or 2 teeth, on opposites sides of the "ring", it'll spread around to the others instantly as it's rotated. Excess oil is bad.

Very good advice I live by---when oiling anything small like this, "even a drop is too much, you want at most a drp". 1 whole drop will flood the whole assembly. Put like a drop on a toothpick---the toothpick will absorb much of the oil, leaving you a tiny little mini-drop-----a drp. Use that.

 

I wonder if that's the reason there hasn't been any talk of an upgrade kit reissue, it needs to be redesigned to work with Onslaught out of the box.

 

Onslaught should be modified, not the upgrade kit. The "rails" seem to have no function, other than to get in the way of the toy-style chestplate. Altering the chest plate to fit Onslaught better, would alter its appearance. Whereas slimming down (or removing) the upper rail is invisible in all modes.

 

Showz got some surprise Swindle stock so I'm now at three down and two to go.

I agree, but how? Is this something every owner who wants the toy chest should be expected to do on their own? Or should MMC/OC somehow fix it?

 

On the toothed circular plate as David said.

 

Did some research on the Dremel. Reminds me of a Die Grinder back in my previous life as a Toolmaker. Must get around to purchasing one with all the accessory bits when I get some cash. My hands aren't as steady as they were 30 years ago unfortunately :-(

 

You don't have to use a dremel. Just use any cutting tool - sharp knife or sandpaper. Also, if there are cheaper options to a dremel. There are other branded/unbranded rotary tools available.

example:
https://www.amazon.com/ChewSteel-Tools-3-6V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B07T5DPSCF

 

Having actually done it, and comparing where the chest plate now sits----simply using a small modeling file or sanding stick/emory board, and thinning down the top of the upper rail, should be plenty. Totally removing the upper rail isn't needed.



A dremel just made it go quicker and I was certain "I'd have removed enough the first time". But I was very worried about losing control... (power tools and toys are a scary mix!)

::edit:: The one daimchoc posted may actually work better than a real Dremel---that one is much smaller and lighter than mine, and should be much easier to handle in small spaces. Not carving wood or metal, so no need for the high-power ones.

 

Are any of the designers/engineer's @LazyAza etc. able to explain the original purpose of that rail that @David Hingtgen has just machined off? Must of been there for some reason.... perhaps as reinforcement to strengthen the panel itself?

 

Probably not they don't post on TFW like we do. I'm sure the rail is there to add to structural integrity though. A lot of plastic parts get made with additional brace points just so on the off chance they're getting flexed or pulled the wrong area isn't getting pressure put on it. Or the engineer just concluded their might have been a problem otherwise and its better to play it safe.

 

I don't want to contradict what LazyAza said, but imo, it looks more like a unused feature. Usually "ribs" are used to reinforce thin pieces of plastic, but that "slot" doesn't look like a rib.

 

yeah unused feature possible too but no idea what it could have been for in that area of Incursus, doesn't make sense why it would need rails in that spot given how the primary parts fold up inside him.