Sorry for your breakage... can you explain how it happened?

 

when I was trying to tuck the cockpit area into the torso and connect it to the lower back. It didn’t seem quite “in” enough. i retransformed that one area, and noticed the glass of the cockpit that opens wasn’t shutting fully. I opened it, and it was broken. Seems it maybe got stuck and wouldn’t move. A small piece of the tab is stuck behind the metal pin. Got it from TFSource so I’m hoping they can help with a replacement of some sort. Doesn’t really effect transformation at all. In fact I don’t know why that little flap exists in the first place. But it’s a $260 figure so any breakage is frustrating.

 

The ankles are so tight on mine now that it feels like I have to force it to move. Future should just sell toy joint polish instead of floor wax lol.

 

anyone have a link for the future lube everyone is using?? havent used my old batch in over a year and now it has a weird milky coloring, dnt think its safe to use

 

I was never 100% sold on this guy, especially when the new 3rd party KO/improvement was revealed, but I got him for a great price because why not.

I just opened him, transformed him, and have him on my desk and I cannot sing enough praises for this figure. What an absolutely perfect Starscream. The transformation is an absolute treat. Both modes are stunning. The backpack folds up SO nicely and flat, it's so negligible in person. The faces ooze personality. The whole damn MOLD oozes personality.

This is, by far, one of the best MPs to date. If TT could get their QC in line, they'd be on the money. I love this figure so much and can't WAIT for TC and SW now.

 

Owning all three MP-03 TRU USA version, MP-11 Destron Emperor and this, well, it ain't even a fair fight to compare all three at the same pedestal.

 

working another 13+ hour shift at work, glad I got this guy to keep me company.

 

That grey part is in F-15s but it would’ve been better if it was molded separately from that clip and just glued to the sides of the canopy, thereby not needing the clip.

Where did you apply it?

 

Emgo has his review and JTI up for anyone interested.

Review

JTI

 

I'm also curious how anyone is getting it down into where the rivet is. I guess you're supposed to put it on the outside of the rivet head but the polish just sits there in a bead for me. It never seeps down in.

 

Crotch thrusting pose:


Here's something unexpected; the stands that came with both ToyWorld's Deluxe Optimuses is compatible with Mp52

 

Yeah, I'm also wondering why it was done like that----it's permanently attached to the canopy on the MP-07 mold. Does it need to be separate for transformation?

 

Just curious was the canopy opened up that far before the break?

No it doesn’t, it’s always meant to move with the canopy so it might as well been permanently attached to it instead of clipping onto the hinge.

 

Just noticed this now, hard to see but Takara not only molded the gun port but also the barrels of the 20mm Vulcan cannon


Did a fighter to robot to fighter transformation today. So, more observations:

• When going from jet to get robot mode and to ensure that the edge of the wings (that connect to the intakes in jet mode and fold for robot mode) have enough clearance when going to robot mode, it’s best to completely pivot the shoulders forward at the butterfly joint. You’ll have to get the lower arms out before doing so. Once the shoulders are completely pivoted forward at the butterfly joint, you’ll have enough room to bend the red hinge assembly upwards at a 90 degree angle and be able to start transforming the entire wing.
• There’s a lot of subtle movements needed for transformation, as in pulling/pushing against hinges and subtle lifting of parts over and under tabs. While the primary parts of transformation are largely intuitive, it’s the subtle tabbing/connecting that becomes counterintuitive(especially going back to fighter mode). Not sure if this is pointed out in text in the instruction sheet but it’s definitely not shown in the CAD drawing pics. Take your time to study the transformation back and forth as the subtle steps surprisingly are the ones that may slow you down(the major parts of the transformation are relatively quick by comparison).
• The transformation is full of 90 degree and 180 degree pivots/swivels plus pushing/pulling of sections
• 1 of the trickiest steps for transformation back to jet mode involves the last steps for tabbing together the left and right sides under the spine of the jet. The furthermost hinge(acts like an accordion joint in robot mode) is able to pivot back at an angle on a double hinge. It doesn’t give you much clearance but is just enough to let you get over the last left and right sections that tab in behind and underneath it.
• When opening the canopy it will only go upwards at about 45 degrees and will stop at a detent. Don’t go beyond this as the grey frame underneath it has broken on some copies and I believe bending the canopy upwards beyond 45 degrees can snap the connection clip of the grey frame. That frame is always meant to move with the canopy.
  
• Jet mode follows what MPM Starscream did in using realistic details(panel lining, overall sculpt aside from the exposed robot parts) for the jet mode but sacrificing the jet mode for an accurate robot mode(as in some robot kibble being visible in jet mode), but to a lesser extent than the MPM(which had the underside of the feet sticking out to the sides and clearly visible from the top in jet mode)
• When pivoting the side lower torso flaps inwards for jet mode, you have to slightly pivot the upper torso flaps outwards to ensure enough clearance(the lower torso tabs have to clear shallow grey tabs raised on the ab crunch hinges). This won’t feel right initially since your pivoting against the hinge at its limit, but the only alternative is to fold against the raised grey ab hinge tabs, which will either wear them down or damage the lower torso parts in question.
• I think the mold may actually be easier to transform yet just as secure in both modes if it’s retooled in the future with some tabs removed.

 

In this case, while they theoretically could have done more work to conceal some of the robot shapes in the undercarriage (like MP-3 did), they chose not to this time around because what's there is entirely show accurate, including the grey rectangular plate that covers the faux cockpit.

 

Urgh. Did my paint touch up yesterday, and all looks fine.

Randomly did a cursory check of the known issues and it turns out his left hand has (had? Not sure) the cracking at the same place as others. Haven't touched that part other than initial transformation...

Opened it up to see, and it came off in my hand.

So, glue it, or return it? It has a clean break, so it's a simple surface to glue and it fits perfectly.

What glue is likely to be the best? And have Amazon.co.jp even got replacements now?

 

Put him to work

 

Great in depth observations! If you fold/unfold the jet’s spine panels fist/last in the transformations, you’ll no longer have to pull or flex any of the hinges that the wings are connected to. Going to bot mode; you can untab the faux canopy cover and pivot the nosecone down to unlock the spine panels. During the bot to jet conversion; lining up the tab at an angle and then flattening out the spine ensures everything closes up.

also that Vulcan cannon is one of my favorite details!

 

Can you take a pic and post it here?

 

Here you go. I can also see a small hairline on the other side, too. Top left of the picture