MG Deathscythe Hell is complete. This one only took me 10 days to finish which is a new record for me. It's not that complicated of a build so that's probably why I managed to finish in a short amount of time. This kit was a rebuild of a kit I got done in 2016. I have a love/hate relationship with this particular kit. Love how it looks but hate the wings. They are a pain to pose and get in the way of everything. I still love the endless waltz kits and I am happy that I finally got this journey started. Probably wont get them finished until early next year but I should be able to squeeze one or two more EW builds this year. As far as color choices i went with a mix of the purplish armor parts from Katoki’s drawing in the manual as well as the the orange head sensor and gold parts from the old 1/100 kits. I believe in no yellow parts on Wing kits, that goes back to the old kits I got in the late 90s
Final day for the last of the Planet Armors! Finishing the white work on the Sensor Bits, and fitting them together. The Wave lenses fit perfectly. Attached to the Subflight stand and armor. Now for the rifle. I finished the white paint on the upper and lower rails, and it blends in with the shield much better than how my original idea would have. That completes the Uraven Armor. As I'll be counting the Core Gundam Mk2 and other Core units separately, this is my 254th Gunpla, and 8th ReRise kit. Now.. cue the OP "HATENA!" These were fun. I appreciated how "ReRise" did something different than the first "Divers" or any of the "Build" series by making the lead Gundam have this kind of unique gimmick. The armors were a fun mass building project with individual features amongst them. I'll get to the Core Gundams and Mk2s soon enough.
I think I may have noted my disdain for waterslide decals in passing, but their absence in any kit is something I won't even expend the energy to blink at. Generally I'm much more in the "keeping it clean" method of model building, even when it comes to personal machines I'm typically not too bothered to have markings applied, and when I do a sticker is good enough for me. I'd rather spend a minute or so fussing with those than half an hour adjusting and readjusting and READUSTING water slide decals that will fall off the moment they dry if I don't apply both mart setter AND mark softer and not just one or the other because these stupid things will not stay on any other way!
Finished my freedom 2.0 finally. Had a lot of other stuff I had to do these last few weeks, so rarely had the time to sit down. Its a bit plain compared to you masterpainters, but I am more into building than painting. I did paint warhammer figures a decade ago and I remember the backlog, the pile of paint pots and the sheer time it took all to well. I know you dont really have to go into the kind of detail I did back then all the time, I think if I started to paint again I wouldnt be able to stop myself going into hyper detail mode again. As for decals I feel a stratigec use of them can really help sell the feel of the model. And that it varies alot from model to model how useful it is. On the RX-78-2 3.0 along with some panel lining it gave me the same feeling as when I am on a plane looking out the window at the wing. On other sleeker models it might not add as much. Speaking of stickers. My next project will be this little guy and that set is loaded with stickers for the gold details. Not sure how I am going to feel with those stickers. Got some gold paint that I might use, but not sure.
I should be posting this in the Marvel thread, but this is useful for Gunpla too. I'm working on the Mk49 Rescue armor and want to cover my bases. First is a color match for the metallic gray plastic, I mixed some silver and my Trans-Am recipe. My plan is for general use throughout the kit but it will be useful in painting the wide gapped panel lines. Mind the scribbled name, it's supposed to read "MCAg" .. the joke would be funnier if I mixed the right shade of gold. The mix is 3 pipetes of silver to 2 pipetes of Trans-Am (which is a mix of Leather, Flat black, dark gray, and steel). I think it will also work for my Ultra Series Figure-Rise models, but not right now. I will be needing some gold for covering up my nub removal. These are for the most part out of sight, but I still want to do some light masking over the spots. Again, just a matter of finding the right metallic gold. I only have the base amount of the legs built and already I'm impressed. I'm using panel line accent sparingly and Gundammarker to fill in the engraved details, trying not to get too carried away with ink. The kit has virtually no seams as of yet because of the contours in the parts design. Almost every part has undergate injection. so far, there are very few noticeable nub marks between the metallix blue and gray layers, save for these edges on the knee guards.
Did a morning run to the city to see if anything caught my eye, got these since nothing actually did... came home and realized I can't even build them right away since I broke my godhands.
Absolutely gorgeous. Even for being so old that kit still looks incredible and you did an amazing job. I genuinely prefer dryrubs over waterslides. They leave a bit of an edge, but it's pretty much invisible under any sort of topcoat, and IMO they're easier to apply. Who is this kit by?
I'll be mirroring the progress pictures in the Marvel thread when I get more assembly work done, but for now this thread gets the important posts on the Mk49 work. No matter how impressive the majority of this kit's color separation and parts design is, they can't get everything. Behold, the sticker sheet. This literally covers mostly the arms where the armor has that sinewy detail in the forearms and biceps. As you can see the bicep is a Bandai'ish sleeve, and how these decals will be needed. So yeah... I need a gold paint that works for this, and all of this. A rough looking primer coat, but I've since cleaned it up from here. What's important from here is getting my colors right for a gold. I made the impulse decision to just order some Tamiya acrylic Titanium Gold, but it won't be here until Tuesday at the earliest. So, I can't stop myself from trying to mix something out of Testors acrylic. Gold is too dark, so brass is my starting point because it's bright enough, but I have my own mixes tp use as a modifier. Enter "Plastic Syndrome Gold," my recipe for the Real Grade Gold Frame Amatsu which is two equal parts of Gold and Turn Signal Amber. I did a few tests in the paint pan to get the idea started before I dare bottling anything. Using Brass witn my PS Gold was the right idea, and adding a bit of silver helped adjust things a little more. I used the pan mix to start masking over where the coating scratched off during my nub removal. With the results being this close enough, I finally have it. I call it "MCAu." 5 pipetes of brass, 3 pipetes of PS Gold, and 1 pipete of silver.
I bought a thing https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HDNNHQ6/ Ex-S time it took me three hours to make these two cores can you tell which is the one for the mobile suit and which is the standaloneif you guessed the one on the left is the core for Ex-S, you're correct.white one is the only one with a clear cockpit, but it slides into the blue part and hidesreal confused as to why Ex-S has not just two cockpits, but THREEnot even Alleujha and Soma's Gundam Harute has that many seats.
i managed a decent job with the waterslides on my last two old-fashoned paint-and-glue kits, - AOSHIMA's 2020 reissue of IMAI's 1984 1/12 GENESIS CLIMBER MOSPEADA VR-052F RIDE ARMOR, and an original 1988 issue of HASEGAWA's 1/200 NASA SPACE SHUTTLE - but even so, it was a nervous, rather unpleasant experience, all the way through. nothing like having one chance at a very tricky subject to drive you to attempt your utmost, i suppose...
@Tasuke that shuttle looks fantastic! nice work on the mospeada too. I tried building one of those a long ways back and it didn’t go well. Tough kit.
my second attempt at the variable IMAI 1/12 RIDE ARMOR in nearly 20 years. my aunt came along to a collectables' shop once back in the early-2000's, and bought me the MONOGRAM GO-BOTS "CY-KILL" 1984 U.S. repackaging of the BLOWSPERIOR VR-041H. i did the very best i could on it then, -turning out closer to this AOSHIMA reissue than not- but, -being a vintage kit that i futzed with rather often- it eventually broke fairly catastrophically on me. in any case, it's certainly nice today to have the variable version of the 1/15 IMAI RIDE-ARMOR-only kit, my second-ever Mecha model as an 11/12-year-old back around 1993/1994;
Figure Rise Standard Faiz It's actually a slight upgrade of old Figure Rise 6 kit from 2014. Bandai just added a little more color separation and paint coated the silver runner. Still looks great with today's standard.
Finished the Gouf Flight Type for now. The kit itself is a fun build. The waterslides were HORRENDOUS. I swear by waterslides normally but usually they are high quality and are easy to work with. I don't know what Bandai's problem is but their slides routinely SUCK in quality. Happened with the MG Banshee Norn and this time it was the adhesion and pinstriping. These damn things would NOT adhere whatsoever, a first in over a decade of using slides from all kinds of companies! I still need to panel line this guy but I do not want to touch him for a long while. I'm glad he was the last of the Expo kits suffice to say. EDIT: and just to prove why Bandai needs to stop being fucking cheap, the stripe on the Apex of the skirting is missing and I only now just realized it. This kind of quality should be having Bandai scrambling to make up for how embarrassing it is that an industry leader can't achieve quality that literally every one of their competitors figured out ages ago.
Faiz is excellent, as it Kabuto though Faiz has better parts separation. (and the stickers that are there aren't as bad as the original release) I have him and Decade in my HLJ PW and my ultimate goal is to at least get every main rider. I only wish his sword had a translucent blade. (I feel like if he was made by today's standards he would but it's a minor nitpick) I wish Bandai would start doing Showa in FRS. I desperately need a show-accurate Black that's not the SS Figuart.
Got my new nippers, finished Char's Zaku... meh? I mean I like the look and colors a bit more over the gundam the origin version, but it feels just as technically flawed as it does improved. I may have stated before I don't like the rubber skirt, but the hard skirt is kinda restrictive, and the front plates like to pop off. Meanwhile the rubber one has no hardpoints to store the heat hawk or spare ammo drum... so no matter which one you go with there's a functionality tradeoff...
Finally starting to snip out the Gundam Base Unicorn Destroy Mode. The process that I'm using here is definitely different than my usual. I'm taking slightly greater care in nub-removal, because I don't have the luxury of priming/painting to cover things up. So I'm snipping off the nub, light sanding with 1000-grit sandpaper, buffing with a cloth, then going over the area with a plastic eraser. The gloss shine is pretty much back. Now to do some panel-lining... on bare plastic. I know many of you guys do that on a regular basis, but I've never done it in my adult Gunpla-building career before.