That is all going to depend on how they have been stored/displayed. For the most part they hold up really well though. At least the ones I have. I've got 15 I think.
Thanks man. I was having a conversation with another member and we got to discussing how some of these premium figures might fare over time. I realize that the old Yamato figures might not be the perfect benchmark against which to compare all others, but I thought it might be somewhat telling. At the same time, I have a number of vintage figures that have all been cared for in a similar manner over the years...some are in great shape and some are turning to dust, so, it kinda feels like a bit of a crapshoot. Haha.
I don’t have any Yamato 1/60 V1s but my 1/48s and 1/60 V2s are all in great condition with no noticeable issues that I know of. I take good care of them though. Transform, display and fwoosh around, nothing too rough.
Same here, they're so playable I love it! They truly feel like toys that are beautiful vs beautiful things that happen to sorta be toys. Weirdly enough my chunky monkey reissues are yellowing and the plastic feels brittle, but then again I live in sunny Florida
Yeah, they are pretty much the best thing I’ve ever come across as a collector. It’s interesting that your chunkys have degraded and not the Yamato’s. I think the whole yellowing thing is so unpredictable but also not a huge deal. Getting brittle sounds bad though. Chunkys are usually one the most indestructible toys in history.
Badly on my Yamato V1 1/60 Hikaru VF-1A(take into account, I forgot where I put it as I much preferred later VF-1 toys by Yamato). There’s a reason why, as pivotal as it was, it’s been far overshadowed by later VF-1 toys: Yellowing noticed especially on the missles Cracks that formed(maybe a year after owning it, I got mine in Fall 2002) around the nose FLIR blisters where you plug the hip pegs in for battroid mode. Plastic is thin on these sockets, not helped by the fact that the legs are heavy. Substantial paint chipping on the legs The PVC hands may have yellowed a lot too On the 1/48 VF-1 there’s a BP8 part that acts as a stopper when you fold the backpack for gerwalk/battroid mode. One would think you have to push the backpack over this stopper bump but you’re actually not supposed to. Basically once you feel resistance, stop. Yamato started to include warnings about it after the initial 1/48 releases. This isn’t an issue with the V2 1/60 and Arcadia VF-1s as you can push the backpack over the stopper bump and it won’t break. The rubber washers within the hip joints can wear out as well. An old trick back then was to just use shreds of looseleaf paper as a cushion to tighten the joint. The shoulder ball joints can loosen up but the looseleaf paper remedy works there too. 1/72 YF-21 has shoulder rails that can crack IIRC, this was addressed on the later FAST pack version. 1/72 VF-11B had hips prone to snapping off. Addressed on the later FAST pack version. Shoulder pivots were screwed on too tight on some copies. 1/72 YF-19 initial run had a “tab B” part that could break easily on the spine of the fighter mode. Addressed with later runs and on the VF-19A from VFX2. My VF-19A has a snapped canopy hinge. Any Yamato Valkyrie prior to the 1/48 tended to have substantially more diecast than you might expect. However, starting with the 1/48, they got a better grip on how to better utilize diecast and only used it where it was needed. For them specifically, using less diecast(but using it more strategically when needed), benefitted them. Now if you want a 1/48 VF-1 with a good chunk of diecast, get a Bandai DX VF-1 as it integrated diecast well without being detrimental to balance/poseability.
Definitely is quite bizarre but basically half of the body is yellowed and the other half isn't! The chest area is what feels brittle. Bought it second hand a decade ago at MW maybe the previous owner kept it out in the sun or something!!
Bandai's 1/55 (and other toys) that are white-colored/white-plastic are/were notorious for yellowing on its own without being exposed to sunlight. Either it's something about the paint or plastic chemicals used on 'em, or the interaction with the styrofoam or plastic trays they're housed in. I think the "yellowing" is just one part of it or just a symptom, tho. I got SOCs that cracks, turn brittle or gooey and stuff on its own while stored in a cool-temp and unlit storage place.
Ah that explains it! Yep got the yellowing and the brittleness on my bandai 1/55 but not the gooeyness!
It can happen relatively suddenly too. Flashbacks of putting my stark white Gakken Legioss into the storage closet in 2017 and taking it out in 2018 looking like it spent twenty years in a sun-filled smokers lounge. So heartbreaking.
Yellowing is a bitch, and seems to happen randomly. My Siege Jetfire started yellowing on the shoulder pads and knees, but nowhere else. I'm hoping the off-white of the DX VF-1S means it will be less likely to yellow, but the Yamato YF-19 I was thinking of buying a while back had yellowing.
The older DX also yellows as well too if you didn’t know guys. Rdrunner (on MW) has a renewal Alto DX VF-25 that has yellowed in certain spots. My second copy of Alto’s VF-171EX has yellowed in certain spots as well. Even a member on MW has his copy of Arad’s 31s yellowed when he put it on a shelf and the sun was beating on it 24/7 open window conditions. Best option: Black out curtains, UV Film on the window, de-humidifier to keep the room in cool temps and open those boxes to let air circulate every once in awhile otherwise “Your choking your valks to death” according to Noel on MW. Speaking of which.. Gotta air out the sticky hands on my Yammie 1s DYRL Max from its plastic prison.
Yellowing isn't random. There are multiple causes that make things confusing though. There is a pretty good yellowing thread over on MW. Lot's of a good input (one person literally being a rocket scientist). I did some research on what museums do about UV light and then bought a UV and visible light meter to do some testing to see how much UV I was really getting opposed to what I thought I was getting. I posted the results. Here are all of the variables/causes: -Material type -UV light -Temperature fluctuations -High temperatures -Humidity -What they are stored in (Styrofoam coffins, plastic trays, etc) -Etc If you display your stuff in an environment with no UV light (you probably have a lot more than you think) that is relatively temperature and humidity stable you won't get any yellowing unless the material it is made out of is just that bad. Nothing you can do about that though. UV is the big killer here though. If you don't go to pretty extreme measures to block out UV you will get yellowing. All of my toys are in my office. The windows are blacked out. The windows in the house that can let light in through the office door have a good quality film that knocks UV way down below museum levels. Be careful, there are a ton of junk films out there that don't block like advertised. There is a link in the MW thread on a test which shows which ones work, it's not many. I have even gone as far as to test the light-bulbs in the room for UV. I ended up getting special LED's for the lights in the cabinets and aimed my regular lighting so the UV is knocked down before it can get to the toys. Obviously it helps to have a UV light meter for this. If you store your stuff absolutely do not store it in Styrofoam coffins. The off gassing from the Styrofoam breaking down is a killer. Plastic trays are OK (maybe you noticed that Bandai has stopped putting DX Valks in Styrofoam???), but they still off gas a little. You best bet is to get your toys away from Styrofoam or plastic all together. That said, if you keep them in a temperature and humidity stable (but not hot or too humid) environment you probably won't have any issues with plastic off gassing. Two places you absolutely don't want to store boxed toys in are attics that aren't temp stable and don't get hot (which aren't going to be many) and damp basements. How to prevent yellowing: Yellowing - How To Prevent? There is also another thread that has info on how to whiten yellowed stuff: YOU'RE YELLOW! VF-25F turning all sorts of colors Hope this helps.
A stark white Legioss? i don't believe such a thing exists, but you've certainly piqued my curiosity...
Oh FFS did it have to be October? 90% of my preorders are falling into September/October this year. I'll have to reopen the banana stand this summer.
Dangit, now I need to pull my Chuck down and see if I can recreate that pose in the bottom left corner on the second image.
I know it's fiction and serves the plot and overall theme for Macross but imagine going to a life or death fight and your best weapon is a bunch speakers.
