The numbering to me seemed to follow - number - standard release for a separate character (Optimus, Sideswipe etc) added letter - variant, new character, character from other sources (G2 Sideswipe, Tigertrack etc) + - alternate deco (Red Alert cartoon style) But then Exhaust comes along with his own number for instance and now it's all over the place!
Yup Exhaust was probably the first inconsistency. The + designation now means whatever they want to mean. Better to not try and understand it
Any release with a unique number is a mass release. Regardless of who or what it is. Exclusives always get a modified existing number. Those are the two things that hold true no matter what (except for MP-711 for obvious reasons). The modifies designation numbering usually having to do with what their name is or something else to do with the character / theme. These included things like MP-11TC, MP-11SW, MP-11S, MP-17S, MP-17B, etc. At first any + releases (MP-16+, MP-12+, MP-14+, MP-17+, etc.) were specifically for cartoon based decos or an alternate version of the character, like MP-36+ (toy based version). When we got to Spinout and Thundercracker it stopped being about alternate versions of the same character and instead a redeco / retool of the base figure. As there probably are not any alternate versions they want to do of the same character and now goes to the first exclusive redeco / retool of a mass release since they are already cartoon accurate and a toy based version is less likely.
I would hurt people to get a toy deco sunstreaker. Not much. Maybe just pinch. But I'd pinch the hell out of them.
I think there are enough of us wanting it to warrant production. And the parts are already there— no new tooling required. It seems like an easy way to milk the mold. Toy Sunny and Cordon are the ones I really wanted from the start.
Guys, I’m thinking of picking this figure but is there anyway to remove the Autobot fraction symbol without damaging the chest?
I believe the symbol is a tampograph rather than an adhesive sticker. I don't know of a way to remove it without damaging the plastic.
Ok, guys thank you for the warning! I was thinking of picking up the diaclone inspired versions such as Spinout, Cordon, “blue” Bluestreak but the fraction symbols are distracting…I want them to resemble the origin diaclone that I used to own.
The symbols are indeed tampographs and there’s paint underneath. You may be able to use a high proof isopropyl alcohol to remove the symbol, but you’d risk removing some of the paint underneath. Regardless, I’d highly recommend Spinout or any version of the Sunstreaker mold. It’s a fantastic figure. The Datsun mold is as well, and would be closer in style to the old Diaclone toys.
Yeah, I think the part is painted and it’s on translucent plastic? If it’s on bare red plastic…I don’t mind. I guess I’m at the age where I’m nostalgic for my childhood toys. In my country (Singapore), diaclone was quite available…so I hoping to relieve my past thru these MP versions. Example, the sunstreaker variations were so bad ass back then. Tbh I was thinking of that option too! Worse case I may go to a hobby shop to get some red stickers.
There is a method you can use to remove a tampo without damaging the paint. I’ve done it twice, with no issues. You take a serrated knife and gently and carefully scratch the tampo off. You’ll want to hold the knife like a pencil resting it against your pointer finger and holding the blade with that and your thumb. I did it to my original MP Bumblebee on his hood symbol and on Kingdom Tracks where they stamped the number on his shin. And before anyone says it. No I’m not joking. Yes you can do it this way. It takes time and steady hands. That said. It’s up to you if you want to attempt this method as it is risky. I can provide pics if you’d like of my results.
I’ve done that using a razor blade— pulling it gently across the tampo but sideways, like a scraper— with decent success, but even with great care it still left the paint below slightly scuffed. I buffed it out with a fine polishing compound. I’m assuming you’re suggesting something similar with the knife. I just don’t understand why you recommend a serrated (toothed) blade. The applied pressure is easier to moderate along a longer edge (without points).
For me it has to do with being able to use both the smooth spots and the points of the teeth as detail work.
You know, all this being said about how to remove the tampoed symbols… sometimes they'll just start chipping away with normal play wear. It might even be possible to wear it down a bit, though I'm not going to test that out on any of my MPs.